As indicated from the MINIUSA.com screen grab above it would seem that the official power output for the US market Cooper S has gone down to 168HP. This is according to the MINIUSA website which makes absolutely no mention of that nice round 170 number that has been so prominently displayed in all the literature up to this point.
So what's the change you ask? Well frankly we can only guess at this point. It very well could be more stringent US emissions, but that's not been verified yet. However other BMW Group cars are effected in similar ways. For instance the BMW M3 has 343HP in Europe but in the US it makes due with only 333HP (rough isn't it).
One thing for certain though, 0-60 times have come down slightly with the combination of increased power and a refined 6-speed gearbox. And early owner reports indicate that the power band is a bit smoother from 2nd to 3rd gears. All said it's still a positive change.
<p>Gabe,</p>
<p>I noticed that as well, and I think that you are right.</p>
<p>What I am curious about is where the increase in power is from, and what the implications are. The only changes that we are aware of are ECU changes, Gen V of the supercharger, and the gearing. We know that the gearing doesn't provide any extra hp. The Gen V supercharger has been claimed by Eaton not to give any extra hp, but to just be more efficient. That leaves the ECU changes. So if the 5hp is coming from ECU changes, what are the implications of the tuning companies?</p>
<p>Most ECU companies are only in reality getting about 5-6hp. Will they still get this power on an '05, or will they need to develop new programs? I don't see the benefit of getting maybe 1-2hp extra above the 5hp increase, for $400.</p>
<p>If it is from ECU change entirely, it would be very interesting how they got the increase from the ECU? Was it fuel maps? If they tightened the A/F ratios, how much more can companies extract from the car?</p>
<p>The exhaust has also been reworked.</p>
<p>I thought the exhaust sounded different. :)</p>
<p>It may be only 5 HP, but I can definitely tell the difference between my new '05 and the '04 demo we have hanging around like an “unflushable.”</p>
<p>I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but I still don't see a change in the horsepower specs from 163 on MINIUSA.com. I've visited it a number of times over the past 48 hours. Help!</p>
<p>I've always wondered about that stuff from Eaton, how can the Gen 5 SC be more efficient, yet not deliver more HP? </p>
<p>Efficiency is the output in relation to the input. For a constant amount of input, more efficiency has to mean more ouput. </p>
<p>Of course, it could just be the marketing guys at Eaton wanting to sell some new stuff and not really understanding the meaning of words. ;-)</p>
<p>For David in Post 4 above</p>
<p>Go to MINIUSA.com</p>
<p>Then once inside the site see:</p>
<p>OUR CARS –> MINI COOPER S –> FEATURES AND SPECS</p>
<p>I think this is a prime example as to why MINI's PR should be very careful about releasing production hp figures way ahead of time, specially in a country where people are obsessed by power and ratings.</p>
<p>Sure, 5hp is still 5hp and that is an important change to brag about but I personally think that MINI wanted to create so much excitment around the 2005 model year launch that they just spilled the beans too much and too soon. I can't wait to hear the complaints from owners thinking they were paying for 170HP and only got 168HP…Mazda RX8 anyone? LOL</p>
<p>Aside from the improved Eaton supercharger unit, ECU programming and revised exhaust, I think the change that will make the car “feel” faster off the line is the closer ratio 6-speed Getrag, more than anything else.</p>
<p>Is an additional 5hp and a close ration Getrag enough reason for me making me want to trade in my vault bank solid '04 MCS for a '05 MCS? No, I don't think so.</p>
<p>Also, from what I've read, the changed gear-ratios and revisions took a slight hit on fuel economy. Now it's down to 32MPG highway… Realistically 29 or 30MPG I'd bet. </p>
<p>For all the older MCS owners, you can throw an intake on and a pulley and suprass the 2005 MCS in power. Of course a pulley = no warranty 🙁 </p>
<p>Nice tweak, but certainly not enough for me to trade in my 04 MCS… Now were it getting around 180 or 190HP, I'd start to consider 🙂 Really my biggest performance complaint about the MCS is low-end torque and acceleration that is just ok…</p>
<p>I actually took out Tate's '04 MC40 demo out on a MINI fun run last night. Tate's sales manager Ben (who's also an instructor at Summit Point Raceway) lead the way in my new '05 MCS. </p>
<p>Mind you, I was on all seasons run-flats compared to my car which is running performance run-flats – Ben was pulling away from me in my car while I was definitely having to rev the car a bit higher (and sliding around) to catch up. First gear is definitely faster compared to the '04 and the 2-3 gear change is also a bit quicker. </p>
<p>One very significant thing – before picking up my '05 MCS last week – I had forgotten that the stock exhaust was pretty pleasant. My new '05 MCS seems to have more popping and cracking (which sounds very cool) when you let off the gas at about 3200 rpms. The '04 MCS MC40 was definitely quieter and significant less crackle and pop. </p>
<p>In city traffic 1st gear lets me rocket away from stop lights (unless there is a Cobra SVT next to me). </p>
<p>Also a minor plug for Tate in Annapolis MD – I've bought four MINI's from Tate – they're awesome sales people and very enthusiastic car people. When I had finished up my paperwork, Chris one of the sales dudes, gave me a CD-ROM of about 20 high-res images of my car. I've never had that happen – but was pleasantly surprised.</p>
<p>It is possible for an engine to lose 2-5hp on hot/humid days when compared cool/dry days. Not to worry, wonder yes, but never worry.</p>
<p>Now, I've heard about 10-20hp increase for the 05 S-Works – which I've got on order. If this turns out to be 2-5hp, that will be significantly different from 20hp.</p>
<p>“Lets join the fight against gaz guzzling” by lower the fuel economy of our cars!</p>
<p>Sorry couldn't resist. :)</p>
<p>Gabe, there are multiple ways of stating horsepower. IIRC, and somebody correct me if my semantics or details are wrong, there's a difference between how it's measured in the US vs Europe. Kind of like the difference between Imperial units and Metric. I can't remember the specifics of how their measured and why they differ, but the European method overstates HP with respect to the US method.</p>
<p>example.</p>
<p>the V8 in the M5 produces 396 bhp (US) but is quoted as 400 in europe. i also recall some discussion when the car was released that the engineers at M were shooting for the 400 hp goal and their glee in having achieved it.</p>
<p>I'm pretty sure they are both measured in BHP.</p>
<p>I wonder if the new LSD will improve the 0-60 times as well on the January '05. I would think the extra traction off the line will help, the same as it does for the EVO VIII, although not as dramatic.</p>
<p>My mileage hit 29-30 mpg only once and that was on my trip from FL, on the interstate10, to my home in CA in my '02 MCS. Since then I only avaerage 21-23 mpg. Does anybody really get anywhere near 30 mpg in a MCS?</p>
<p>Spot on Rodney!</p>
<p>…RB</p>
<p>could be, but unless they provide us with the units of measure we'll never really know, will we.</p>
<p>it really is a rediculous discussion, imo. there's only so much precision in the manufacturing process and engine will inevitably produce more or less power than the “identical” engine next to it. remember, we're not dealing with F1 engine tolerance levels here but a mass produced chrysler unit built in brazil. also things like temperature, barometric presssure and humidity will affect the performance of your engine. does anybody really believe that if they bench tested each and every Cooper S engine under identical conditions they'd produce identical power? granted we're probably talking about 1 or fewer standard deviations about 168 so our variance is probably less than 2-3 hp either way. but to quibble about 168 vs. 170 when dealing with a road car is imo a waste of time.</p>
<p>Here are the overall gear ratios for MCS05 compared to MCS04. Data is from the MINIUSA website. The engine will be turning slightly faster at a given road speed for more power at given road speed
gear 04 05
1 11.410 12.789
2 7.176 7.793
3 5.399 5.651
4 4.410 4.615
5 3.652 3.818
6 2.984 3.125</p>
<p>2587rpm at 60mph with tire diameter for 828 revs/mile in 6th gear.</p>
<p>'04 MCS owners can opt for the JCW kit and upcoming 10-20HP upgrade and will be on par with any '05 JCW MCS.</p>
<p>FYI – it's looking more and more like the 2005 JCW kit will be around 210bhp and not 220bhp.</p>
<p>I have a question that is slightly off topic so please forgive me if it doesn't totally fit here:</p>
<p>My '02 MCS has begun, once again, to exhibit the dreaded stumble, even though I'm running V.38 software. I'm wondering what others have done with their dealers to get this fixed once and for all. I'm near the point of selling the car.</p>
<p>Is there a way to take the 6 speed getrag coming out on the '05's and perform a change out and would this give me any improvements? Any suggestions that I can get the dealer to perform: i.e. replace the car and how, etc?</p>
<p>On the hot day we had here yesterday, the engine and airconditioner left me moving slowly with not much power.</p>
<p>From what I've read and understood the '05 will have better gearing and no stumble compared to the '02's.</p>
<p>I wish people would quit reminding me the MINI engine is essentially a Chrysler. That's a real downer. :)</p>
<p>To RB:</p>
<p>My mileage has only hit above 28 thrice on highway driving during two separate trips. One trip each was during February and July. I have an MCS'02. </p>
<p>My yearly average was 24.65 for '02-03 and currently 26.02 for '03-04.</p>
<p>I've found that the MCS trip computer overstates my mileage by additional 5mph when I make gas fillups versus my trusty calculator.</p>
<p>RB – I regularly average 26-28 with my '04 MCS JCW. And yes, I've got my foot to the floor through the first 3 gears. I reset the avg. mpg after every fill up.</p>
<p>My driving over 300 miles (1 tank) is probably 100 highway miles near (cough… <em>above</em>) the speed limit, 100 highway miles of stop and go traffic, and 100 miles in town.</p>
<p>That mileage has been consistent over my first 7200 miles so far.</p>
<p>Matt Dolch: “Really my biggest performance complaint about the MCS is low-end torque and acceleration that is just ok…”</p>
<p>Well the new MCS is supposed to fix these two problems significantly. Drive one before you decide it's not worth upgrading. :)</p>
<p>I never understood the complaints about the MCS's 1.6L Supercharged engine supposedly lack of low end torque and slow acceleration. My '04 MCS accelerates briskly from standstill and have never felt that the car is a snail in every possible traffic situation there is. In fact in the MCS is way to easy to chirp the tires and hence ASC+T is standard equipment.</p>
<p>My MCS has been great since day 1, zero stumble and yo-yo and the car has more than enough performance for daily driving. It seems to me most people were expecting V6 or V8 torque, c'mmon this is one of the smoothest and most responsive 1.6L powerplants I have ever driven (Ward's Automotive seems to agree as they placed the 1.6L MCS engine among the 10 best engines in the world for 2003).</p>
<p>The 2005 MCS tweaks are indeed nice, but these are done at the expense of fuel economy and the fact that in citiy driving due to the closer gear ratios, now you have to shift more than even before.</p>
<p>Fudwell…</p>
<p>According to my MA and Philip Kalor of MINI USA CD 38 had nothing to do with the “Stumble”.</p>
<p>I have had mine diagnosed and probed up the ying yang and still have it.</p>
<p>The best thing I have found is turnig off the DSC, that seems to help…a little.</p>
<p>My last trip from LA to Los Gatos, Ca. I got 25 mpg. I ran up interstate 5 most of the way and ran between 85 and 125, with the help of my Escort Passport 8500, all the way.</p>
<p>ChrisW…</p>
<p>other than the stumble, MINI can't seem to get rid of, I have no complaints with my engine. Runs great and have had no mechanical problems. Build quality, which is controlled by BMW, is another story. have you had problems with your engine?</p>
<p>Curious.</p>
<p>RB</p>
<p>Do a search at the top of this page for all the stumble info you'll ever need.</p>
<p>For David Bunting, Post 6</p>
<p>I've taken the path you've suggested, all along. I still don't see the new numbers. I even cleared out my history and saved internet pages, and it still won't update.</p>
<p>I know the changes are true, but to actually see them would lower my heart rate a bit. : )</p>
<p>Frank,</p>
<p>I am glad to hear that you are not experiencing the stumble issue. I wish that mine could get cleared up. </p>
<p>Just a few minutes ago, I was attempting to pull out from the grocerers onto the two lane road. The ac was on, I pressed the gas, and the engine all but cut out. This is dangerous cause I can't depend on the car and I drive responsibily: i.e., I don't take chances in pulling out in front of oncoming traffic, don't take unnecessary chances, and prefer good defensive driving. </p>
<p>It's unfortunate also in that I have to over compensate for the car by pressing the gas to rev the engine and being more aware of letting out the clutch as I would get a very revving engine. I don't understand the issue. Totally frustrating that I have to monitor my driving like this. I'm just trying to drive.</p>
<p>According to the point above, V. 38 had nothing to do with the stumble. Whatever it did, afterwards my engine was more responsive and shows less stumble without the AC on.</p>
<p>There's a guy where I live with the same exact car that I have built during the same time period and he has no issues with his engine.</p>
<p>Elmor..</p>
<p>I hear ya brother.</p>
<p>Maybe I'll try CD38. As stated above I was told it had nothing to do with the big “S” but if you found any help with it I will try.</p>
<p>What part of the country do you live in? It seems, with mine, that heat, any temp over 75, is the main culprit, below that and I'm fine.</p>
<p>But other than the “S” and the thump in my steering I'm sticking with it. I mean I've got everything else fixed and can't imagine driving anything else, even though one of my neighbors just got a 40th Anniversary Porsche that is looking real sweet.</p>
<p>…RB</p>
<p>In regards to the hp difference, I know that there was a letter to the editor of “Motor Trend” magazine about the new Maserati making 385 or 390. The response was that European units of measure are slightly different. The figure for the car there is 390, here it is 385. It could be the same situation for the MINI.</p>
<p>RB,</p>
<p>I live in Atlanta.</p>
<p>My memory remembers it like this: With previous versions, i.e. V. 35? the car stumbled at 70 and above. With V. 36 the car stumbled at 80 something and above. After V.38 I don't have too much stumble when not running the ac. Turn the ac on no matter the temp, the car power plummets.</p>
<p>Like so many others, I've been dealing with this since I bought the car. It's not exactly the feature of owning a Cooper S that I sold myself on. </p>
<p>I simply want a car that works and has the power when the gas is pressed regardless if the AC, DSC, or anything else is running. Finding myself out in the middle of traffic because the engine has decided to stumble is absurd. (sorry, I'm a tad frustrated….ok, really frustrated!)</p>
<p>In general, I didn't buy the MINI thinking I was getting some high performance car that would take on V6's and above. I thought that I was getting a well put together auto with a parent company with a good history. I was looking for a car with flare and fun to drive, good mileage, and well thought out materials.</p>
<p>Matt Dolch should get the JCW upgrade – perhaps similar price to the cost of trading an '04 for an '05, and will satisfy all his needs ;)</p>
<p>And maybe it gets rid of the stumble too? I don't have it ;)</p>
<p>Never had the AC cause any probs with the power. Strange.</p>
<p>…RB</p>
<p>Well I live in Los Angeles and there's definitely no correlation with outside temperature to the stumble problem. My '04 S exhibits no matter <em>what</em> the weather. I have v36 software. I often feel really nervous about pulling into traffic because the car has lost power so many times.</p>
<p>petsounds,</p>
<p>I can understand your concerns…</p>
<p>Sad to hear that it's troublesome for your '04.</p>
<p>Folks </p>
<p>It is the 162 ftlbs of mighty Torque that really matters… forget the 168hp!</p>
<p>allan</p>
<p>PS- just thetightening of the 3rd, 4th, and 5th in the Getrag is worth the '05 alone!!!!</p>
<p>Petsounds…</p>
<p>I was relating my experiance with my '02 MCS and tempurature does have an effect on my car! So speak for yourself…Thanx!</p>
<p>…RB</p>
<p>As for loss of power when taking off, I have found that with the DSC engaged mashing the throttle will cause the DSC to take control by reducing power to the wheels allowing the tires to grip. By lifting off the throttle the revs comeback and the car takes off. It’s confusing but with the traction controls the computer says back off.
So by lifting your allowing the tires to gain traction and the amount of throttle applied compared to the speed of the car is in line with the tolerance of traction control.</p>
<p>That's my take on it and when I'm taking off in traffic I have to remind my self not to go to far with the throttle.</p>
<p>With the air on, however, I have found over revving for a quick launch is the only way.</p>
<p>Well, I hate the stumble and it can be scary when it happens, but short of the A/C compressor cutting out at idle like some older Japanese cars, there is no way that the car will perform the same with A/C on as it will when it is off. The engine is just too small to make much power at 1500 RPM.</p>
<p>I guess also that my '04 MCS has never experienced any stumble or A/C related performance problems as the car does not have the optional DSC only ASC+T traction control. I have lighter 16″ V-spoke wheels and no sunroof.</p>
<p>My car, an '02 MCS has ASC.</p>
<p>The weather here today is much cooler by 10 so I'm not having to run the AC.</p>
<p>Turning off ASC, and turning on AC, did nothing to with regards to the power comsumption that I could tell as I was driving up a hill. The car did not flinch. So I don't think this would be an issue in warmer weather such as yesterdays 88 when having the AC own produced horrible stalling, not cutting out, but I had to quickly press the clutch in to keep it from happening.</p>
<p>When the AC is off the car drives spunky like it should with some minimal bouts of the stumble. Like I said before; Had I known of this unknown feature I would not have bought the car. The car that I test drove showed no signs of problems when starting from a dead stop and I was in South Florida weather.</p>
<p>Anyone know of a way for me to get my money back or get a replacement from MINI?</p>
<p>If you go to the Mini2 site you will find the apparent fix for stumbling. Heat and humidity, by the way, DO affect how small, highly strung cars perform and especially when the extra AC load is added. In many cases, the timing is retarded to keep engine operation within acceptable limits…heat is a performance limiter.</p>
<p>There are lots of reasons that the HP could have gone up a few points. ANY revision to the engine internals suach as the cam or external power sapping stuff such as pullys, exhaust/headers/cats, air intake, SC and its gearing etc. etc. could be responsible.</p>
<p>Obviously any of these changes would require a re-tune so the ECU will have a different program. And yes, it could all be down to the re-tune of the ECU its-self.</p>
<p>This 168bhp figure is of course measured at the engine crank and not something you can easily dyno. A complete dis-assemble of a 2005 and 2004 model car would show you the differences.</p>
<p>But all of this doesn't actually matter. It is HP to the wheels that matters for speed. So a revised gear box with lower drive-train loss will increase HP to the wheels. Optimisation of the gearing will increase the acceleration. Anyone who has played around with gear ratio settings in Gran Turismo will have (virtual) first hand experince of this.</p>
<p>So 0-60 times and wheel dynos will show up the differences, but again it seems genrally accepted that dynos are not accrate to anything better than 5-10hp and there are so many factors that alter 0-60 1/4 mile and dyno readings such as fuel octane, air temp, engine temp, ECU self-adjustment that a sample of one car of each year will not be definative. Also there is HP varation from car to car of the same year and model so you need to do a very large survey on the same calibrated dyno machine to get some good data (like 50(?) cars of each year). So looks like a forum or two should keep a log of track times and dynos for the answers….</p>
<p>Fudwell…</p>
<p>Isn't the AC was run by a separate electric motor? If this is true why would it cause the engine to bog since these aren't electric cars?</p>
<p>BOICE…</p>
<p>Where on Mini2 is this info?</p>
<p>…RB</p>
<p>I think Matt has it right – there is a difference in European vs. American methods of measuring stuff. Their HP numbers are sometimes the same, but often slightly different from ours. Their method of measuring octane is also slightly different.</p>
<p>RB,</p>
<p>I'm not aware of the AC running on a separate motor as you've asked. I honestly don't know specifics of a mechanical nature. The only motor that I know exist is the one for the power steering. My attempt was to describe what happens when I switch it on to see if others had a similiar issue.</p>
<p>I did look on the Mini2 site and did not find anything after performing several searches. Maybe we'll get a link to the mentioned fix.</p>
<p>Honestly, I am the point its either fix it once and for all, replace it, or research other options. I've been put in one too many incidents where I had no power to the engine that left me hanging. It's like having a psychotic car in that I never no when it's going to happen and compensate by revving the engine before engaging the clutch. Some days it drives just fine….</p>
<p><em>most</em> cars have an electric clutch that engages or dis-engages the AC compressor (which is driven off one of the engine pulls). It is <em>normal</em> that a W.O.T. (wide-open-throttle) will disegage the AC to maximise power/accelration in this situation. The only way to cofirm all of this onthe mini would be soemone with a copy of the technical service manual to look at the set-up and comment.</p>
<p>The A/C Is run off a belt taking power from the engine whereas the power steering is run off a seperate electric motor. The issue with cutting the compressor clutch out at WOT is that most of the time you don't take off from a stop using WOT.</p>
<p>I know I have been caught a few times with the stumble trying to get across a well travelled 5 lane road in the office park where I work. So now, I turn off the A/C and diable DSC whenever I have to go across. Pretty scary when you have no power, then wham, it all starts coming on, to the point where you are spinning the wheels, then DSC clamps back down on it.</p>
<p>I got 03 cooper S and I don't have same problem that i have before after I learned that 91 octane is not 91 octane speacially when you buy this gas from ARCO. Arco gas have 10% alcohol or other have to comply CA EPA standards that they call clean air. Yeas it burns cleaner but,it is starting breaking some parts of your engine i.e. fuel pump etc.</p>
<p>When I fill up with Shell which they just comply with the standards, I started getting stumble and hicup the same with unocal 76, where unocal 76 have racing gas of 100 octane. Yeap I mistaken fill one full tank of 100 octane and payed 80 bucks for 12 gal.guess what, the car runs like a champ.</p>
<p>check it out maybe migth help by checking what you are buying from the pump.</p>
<p>There seems to be a fair bit of confusion about how horsepower is measured. Horsepower is an imperial unit; the metric equivalent is kilowatts (KW). There is no such thing as American or European horsepower; official power outputs for a given car vary between Europe and the US (primarily) because of differing emissions regulations, though there are other reasons. People who mention “European” horsepower are probably thinking of kilowatts. </p>
<p>The subject is covered fairly rigorously here:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/34_472.html" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/34_472.html</a></p>
<p>Remember, BHP stands for brake horsepower. According to the definition at the web site mentioned above, brake horsepower is essentially the net horsepower applied to the part in question after parasitic losses, not the gross horsepower prior to those losses. However, manufacturers probably play fast and loose with the BHP definition, and it's likely that the quoted BHP figure is measured at the driveshaft, differential or someplace else upstream of the wheels (but downstream of the crank).</p>
<p>Trust me; I'm an engineer ;)</p>
<p>Jason</p>
<p>More horsepower information:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.efunda.com/units/convert_units.cfm?From=161" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.efunda.com/units/convert_units.cfm?From=161</a></p>
<p>Yikes. I forgot about SAE horsepower versus metric horsepower. I was reminded of this by the 2005 MINI spec Gabe just posted. There it says that “The Cooper S gets more horsepower now with 170 BHP (168 hp SAE).”</p>
<p>This resolves teh 168/170 BHP controversy; Mini UK is using metric horsepower, while they are releasing power figures in the US according to SAE standards. FWIW, one SAE HP is equal to 1.0139 metric HP; this is covered in the first link I posted.</p>
<p>170/1.0139 ~= 167.6694, or roughly 168 HP. It appears that all 2005 Coooper S engines make the same power, but that power is measured slightly differently depending on location. Those who claimed that HP are measured differently in Europe were a bit vague on the details, but they were essentially correct.</p>
<p>Jason</p>
<p>P.S. The SAE has some wonky standards, including their own coordinate system. It's a standard 3-axis system, but the X, Y and Z labels are not where most people think they “should” be.</p>
<p>In my last post on this subject, I have to concede that I was totally wrong about brake horsepower. Brake horsepower IS measured at the flywheel (with no accessories) rather than at the driveshaft with accessories. Next time I'll check my sources before posting ;)</p>
<p>Mea culpa,</p>
<p>Jason</p>
<p>Not bad at all, finally somebody know's what is a mechanical towards power plant.this is my test in PE.</p>
<p>yes it makes me cry whenever ihear that my engine is made by chrysler, but for some wierd reason, it seems to be faster than any PT cruiser ive encountered so far! boo yah! haha</p>
<p>Yap.. I see that also under neat beside the main block, the good thing is chrysler damlier Mercedez benz….</p>
<p>My 2004 MCS has never stumbled, but may I suggest that the stumble might be indirectly caused by low octane fuel. When the knock sensor detects detonation it retards the timing to lower the chamber pressure. Below about 2000 RPM, the effect can be stumbling. The need to retard timing will be exacerbated by:</p>
<p>1) High ambient air tempratures
2) High driving loads (Think: letting the clutch out)
3) Accessory loads (A/C)</p>
<p>Oh, also, I consistently get 30-31 mpg around town, but this drops to around 29 mpg. The trick is low RPM and low throttle opening when you don't need them. If you're stuck in a line of traffic, don't buzz along at 3000 RPM. Put it in 6th and take your foot out of it. Use higher RPMs and throttle opening for accelerating. Oh, and don't make the mistake of using the engine for braking. The brakes are for braking. The engine is for accelerating. You can even pick up a little bit of mileage by putting your Mini in Neutral during long decelerations.</p>
<p>Finally, don't expect to get amazing fuel economy at high speeds in the Mini. It's aerodynamically challenged. You've undoubtedly noted how the back hatch of your Mini collects dirt. This is a large area of low pressure, and contribues to significant drag as you go faster. Aero drag increases with the square of your speed. Check it out for yourself. Find a flat chunk of highway, and use your cruise control. Watch the consumption on your computer at 70 mph and 80 mph. A big difference.</p>
<p>And if it matters, I'm an engineer too. I work in aerospace now, but did a good bit of race car design and building years ago.</p>
<p>I just read through my post from last night and noticed that I left out part of a sentence. On mileage, I meant to write: “. . . 30-31 mpg around town, bu this drops to around 29 mpg when I run the A/C continuously.”</p>
<p>Sorry for the omission.</p>
<p>as far as power loss goes the ac on my 05 MCS surprisingly isn’t bad I live in Fresno and this summer we had almost 2 months of 100 degree plus. what did seem to mater was engine/intercooler temp</p>