[no offence, David!]

I’m on my 3rd MINI. I’ve found the above to be pretty much all I’ve needed. Not all I’ve done, mind you, but all I’ve needed…

just my 2 cents

Clifford Alarms

http://www.clifford.com/g5/access/default.asp

…can include window controllers (Smartwindows in this case) that offer full control (up, down and sideways), inside with the switch and outside with the remote. I’ve had one in my 10 year old car since it was new. With all deference to Ian, is it just a question of cost?

Dan

Could anyone please suggest the most reliable products and value for money at the same time?…

Cheers.

Top additions: Auto-up/GDO circuit Aux input (CD changer – I think not!) Rear fogs (full rack is a must!) Nav british voice hack (lovely!) strangely I haven’t played with performance stuff yet…

Ah, so they’re heavy, in addition to gripping like they’re on snot-slicked wet ice. Lovely. Why didn’t someone mention this to me when I placed my order?! :-)

Hmm…. sounds like a goood “Ask MotoringFile” feature.

I see multiple comments about replacing the ‘heavy’ runflats with lighter, stickier tires. Looking at the specs for my Pirelli Eurfori runflats, the weight per tire is 22 pounds.

I think the heavy tire comments are meant more for the All-season Goodyear runflats which are almost 30 pounds a piece.

Ah, so they’re heavy, in addition to gripping like they’re on snot-slicked wet ice. Lovely. Why didn’t someone mention this to me when I placed my order?! :-)

I see multiple comments about replacing the ‘heavy’ runflats with lighter, stickier tires. Looking at the specs for my Pirelli Eurfori runflats, the weight per tire is 22 pounds.

I think the heavy tire comments are meant more for the All-season Goodyear runflats which are almost 30 pounds a piece.

I see multiple comments about replacing the ‘heavy’ runflats with lighter, stickier tires. Looking at the specs for my Pirelli Eurfori runflats, the weight per tire is 22 pounds.

Yet a performance summer tire from Yokohama (ES100 for example) is 21 pounds. Other OEMs have performance tires around the 20 – 21 pound range.

How can a 1 pound weight saving make such a huge difference?

I understand the benefits of a softer sidewall on ride quality, etc. But most comments point to the weight savings of non-runflats. Where are the weight savings??????

By the way, I have a 04 MCS JCW.

Seriously, rotate your tires every 5k! BMW is VERY wrong on this one. Also gives you a chance to clean the inside of the rim.

Yeah I would agree. However don’t rotate them after 10k… unless you want some interesting handling characteristics.

:) no, but there was not much goodness left. The rainy season is here and it is now called adventure driving!!

Seriously, rotate your tires every 5k! BMW is VERY wrong on this one. Also gives you a chance to clean the inside of the rim.

GMG

I’ve done the intake/exhaust thing, but based on the marginal improvement to performance, I’d replace this option with a JCW brake kit.

I think it depends on what you’re putting on. I’ve seen (and felt) noticable improvement with a Supersprint exhaust and an Alta Intake. But beyond that, when you install an exhaust and CAI your not necessarily doing it because it gives you the greatest power gain. The CAI/Exhaust combo gives you huge improvement in sound (not all exhaust area created equal here though), a moderate power gain, and a slight improvement in MPG. If you just want more power out of your MCS, try going with a 15% pulley.

All that said… a JCW brake kit surely isn’t a bad idea.

tires – Finally wore out the run flats after 50,000 miles. BFGoodrich KDW’s go on Friday.

50k?! Daaaaamn. Were the cords showing? :-)

Those are my tires at 7,200 miles. I rotated them last night. They’re Goodyear all-season run-flats. The left is a rear tire (that looks nearly new) and the right is a front tire that looks about half gone.

Alternatively, add engine management to the intake/exhaust mod so it reads intake/exhaust/engine management and then makes sense. (Yes this will strike some people as three separate mods but I think they only make sense together.)

1. Pulley – 15% – just like it was supposed to be.

2. Intake – more noise, slightly better response

3. Exhaust – just for more noise. If there is power there, you cannot feel it. which one? this is very subjective and could have a whole whiteroof podcast all to itself.

4. software – but I am chicken. Warranty is now up, so this might be in the cards if I can convince myself it is worth it.

5. tires – Finally wore out the run flats after 50,000 miles. BFGoodrich KDW’s go on Friday.

6. Rear sway bar – yeah, but which one?

7. Short shifter to drop the Whalen down a little. Soon on this one. Lot of work for little benfit.

8. Brake pads and rotors – it is time. Both are worn and need replacing. Going Mintex Reds and Drilled/slotted rotors. Have the pads and need to buy the rotors. I will also paint the calipers during the change.

9. Oil changes every 5k – I don’t care what MINI says. No way I am leaving oil in for 15000 miles.

10. wheels – this decision is worse than picking a color! so many choices makes my brain hurt.

None performance parts because everyone else has listed them:

1. my Glovebox Tidy. Rid yourself of the PEZ curse.

2. driver’s parcel self – like it was supposed to be.

3. Mini Compressor and can of Fix-A-Flat for when you loose the stock tires. Fits nicely in the back panel if you do not have the HK stereo.

4. Whalen shift knob – feels SOOO much better than the stock one.

5. AUX in for XM radio or MP3 player

gee, what else have I spent money on???

GMG