As they are positioned on top of the bodywork and after the fact, so to speak, what prevents them from merely being punched up on impact? I’m taking the discussion regarding the length of the studs to be in reference to this . . .

Would it not be a better investment to have the camber plates replaced?

Also, I’m keen on installing a STB and not too crazy about the fact that the SRPs compromise the clearance.

I’m not trying to be presumptious . . . just trying to gain a better understanding.

stylizedfacts.com/STi/2006/10/robust_shock_towers_by_rolls_r_1.html

stylizedfacts.com/STi/2006/10/robustshocktowersbyrollsr1.html

try the html again …

Looks very stock.

Seriously, order these a couple of weeks before you take delivery of your MINI, and install them before pulling out of the lot.
Cheap peace of mind.

Thanks for the review, Gabe.

I may very well be a Chicken Little here, but I won’t ever feel good about a setup like this if I do not have full confidence in the security and strength of the stud/nut connection. My mind just won’t accept weakening one part of a system in order to strengthen another.

I’d guess that most MINI owners buying these are looking for a quick and easy fix and don’t want to have to disassemble the suspension in order to replace the studs when it is so much easier to just loosen and tighten 6 easily accessed nuts.

Most people, especially those that don’t track their cars or engage in other high performance driving activities, will be just fine with the simple and easy installation using the short studs.

1. From the pics [even on M7 website] the nuts are flush with the top of the bolt with no threads showing] — is this acceptable or not??

2. Will the installation void the MINI warranty??

Thanks

The one thing to check is the length of the sleeve section. Just double check that to make sure it isn’t sticking out the bottom of the SRP when installed. If the sleeve is longer than the thickness of the SRP then the SRP will not be clamped and will move freely if the strut tower deforms. You want the sleeve section to be a little shorter than the SRP is thick at that point so that the bolt torque developes some (see warnings above about not tightening the nuts too tight) clamping pressure.

I’m not saying there won’t be full engagement for this particular application without seeing one in real-life, but no threads protruding is not usually a good sign unless someone has done some very careful measurements to account for length and thread quality variations – and I’m talking Military Standards here, not SAE. I’m not too thrilled with all the additions to the strut towers as it stands now – do any of them have different fasteners if required? Safe Solution: Get longer studs.

                 BCNU,
              Rob in Dago

I haven’t seen that nut, but it does sound like a good way to get more threads engaged. You may have to use a drill to open up the holes in the SRP’s to be able to get the sleeve to fit.

How about using the type of nuts that MINI provides for the JCW strut brace? I believe they have a sleeve that extends down along the bolt for additional thread contact.

Has anyone tried the under carriage brace system made by them?

I have the M7 Under Strut System on my MC convertible. I highly recommend it for all convertible owners. The convertible has a significant amount of body flex that makes the car respond with a bit of delayed reaction and loose feeling. The M7 USS improved the handling with more immediate and accurate response. Honestly, when I first got the car I didn’t understand why there was so much hype over MINI’s “go-kart handling”. Now I feel that I really have it.

Of course this is not necessary for the majority of Mini owners, but those that like to do some track days, this helps tremendously towards saving the shoulders of your front tires (and it helps the turn-in performance).