The donor MINI is a 2002 R53. Great testbed for such a conversion. Be sure to click back to read all about their progress.

Anyone have any interest in doing something like this to your MINI? $25k seems pretty reasonable for this kind of conversion to us. What say you?

Over the past couple of years a very serious issue has reared its head in many a 2001-2006 MINIs (aka the R50/R53/R52). The problem stems from oil seals or gaskets going bad (usually towards the front of the motor) and allowing oil to leak from the reservoir. If unchecked this could result in oil starvation and engine detonation.

I own an R50/R52/R53, What Should I Do?

For starters go check your oil… now. If it’s not low, make a mental note of the date (or better yet write it down) and be sure to check it again once a week (to see how to do this, you can watch DB’s demonstration below). If your oil is low head down to your MINI dealer and pick-up some of that unique BMW/MINI Castrol synthetic oil. And remember, once your car is older, it’s generally not wise to change oil from one brand to another. Now once your levels are where they need to be, look under the front of your car towards the front of the engine. If you see obvious signs of oil on the bottom of the engine (or even on the ground) you’ve got a problem. Schedule an appointment at your MINI dealer or local independent MINI shop.

The real problem

For this we turn to an expert: Chad Miller, owner of the MINI only shop Detroit Tuned.

I see several leaks out of the early cars. The first one that leaks on all cars is the crank sensor. It has an o-ring on it and shrinks after it get hot after 30K and it allows oil pass it only when the car is running. It leaks down the front of the block and collects lots of dirt that comes through the radiator.  It will continue down the front of the motor to the pan and blow off when driving. It never drips as it is well above the oil level when the car is parked at any angle. The fix for it is to clean it up, pull it out, RTV it, Put it back in. To do this you HAVE to pull the front of the car off. 

The second (and biggest) place I am seeing oil leak issues is the crank seal/gasket. This seal dries up and will also work its way out and allow oil to be pumped out as its right at the oil pump behind the crank damper. It’s the same on cooper or cooper S and it’s an easy fix once you pull the crank pulley. When this seal goes it will cover the front cover and the oil pan gasket and will make it look like the pan gasket is going. Sometimes it’s good to replace this seal first as it is easy and cheap before you pull the pan and replace that one. The seal is $13.48 the next one is the oil pan gasket. It’s a big job and very messy. (ED: This seems to be what most problems are that we’re hearing about.)

You also have to pull the front end of to pull the air compressor. The gasket is a MINI only part, and lists for $36.71. There are no aftermarket parts for it. I always seal up the crank sensor when doing this job as you already have the front end off, even if the leak is not bad or not at all. I can almost guarantee that, at some point, it will start leaking. 

I also see the oil cooler seals on the cooper S go. They get really hot and dry up and get hard. It starts as a drip, and can drip on the driveway. They can also just go and pump all the oil out of the motor. Again a very cheap part at $3.80 each (you need 2) and it’s a special square o-ring that you’re not going to just pick up anywhere. It’ll take about an hour to install and requires removing the oil filter to stop the drain of oil in to your work area. You can get to it through the drivers wheel well so it’s an easy install.

So there you have it. The majority of issues relate to the crank seal but there are a couple other that could also produce oil leaks. As Chad mentions, the parts aren’t pricey. However it’s the labor that gets the old parts off and the new parts on that is. In total it should run you around $800 at most MINI dealers. Independent shops should be a little cheaper.

As always if you’ve had any experience with the problem and the fix let us know. This is a growing problem in the R50/R52/R53 MINI world and will only get worse in the years ahead. We can only assume multiple aftermarkets solutions will be available soon and that MINI may even redesign the OEM part since the failure seems to be so widespread.

One of the most sought after features by many of us who take our MINIs to the track are working brake cooling ducts. As most trackday junkies know, one of the first things that starts to fail on a MINI on the track are the brakes. And one of the biggest reasons for that is a lack of cooling the pads and rotors. BMW’s own cars have dealt with this issue for years with working brake ducts designed into the front bumper. In fact BMW has been doing this for decades for pretty much every model.

However the one exception was always the MINI. For the R50/R53 there was a semi-official part created for the JCW Challenge racing series back in 2002. However it was only available from John Cooper Garages in the UK and it was designed to use the openings where the fog-lights normally were housed. And it was insanely pricey for two pieces of plastic.

MINI has now made amends for all of this with an updated JCW aero kit with brake ducts designed into the front bumper for the R55, R56 and R57. Even better (for those who already have the aero kit) MINI has created a retro-fit kit that fits the JCW aero kit from 2007 to 2008. The kit is relatively straightforward in terms of installation and it uses the normal cooling area to house the ducts. Of course the only caveat is that you must have the JCW aero kit (or at least the front bumper) on your MINI.

Pricing varies by market but in the US the kit will retail for $238. However be sure to check out our MF sponsors who carry official MINI accessories for potentially lower prices.

Now for the best part. You can download the official MINI retrofit PDF below. Enjoy.

+ JCW Brake air package retrofit / MINI PDF

If you have 18″ OEM MINI wheels on your car put on by the dealer, odds are you have the steering stop installed on your car. The reason? Apparently under extreme circumstances MINI found that the tires with this set up will rub the inner fenders slightly. Their solution? To restrict the steering angle enough to prevent it from happening. The downside? Increased turning radius.

However it’s worth noting that many owners without the steering stop and the 18″ OEM set-up do not experience any rubbing whatsoever. So that begs the question, why in the world would anyone want to install this on their car? We’re not entirely sure. So consider this as much as a installation guide as it is a un-installation guide for those who might have this kit on their car and either have switched to a different 17″ or 18″ set-up or simply want more turning radius.

Steering Stop | Official MINI PDF

Based on our story last Friday detailing the parts associated with the new JCW brake kit, we had a few questions about a potential official retrofit kit. As we reported last year MINI has been planning on selling the brakes set as an accessory in itself. And yes, that means there is an official PDF detailing the kit, the parts, special installation instructions, and the OEM wheels that will fit the kit. You can download it all below:

+ JCW Sport Brake Kit / Official MINI PDF

This one sent in by MF regular Nathaniel Salzman. It’s a great way to get iPhone integration in your MINI without breaking the bank!

MINI iPhone integration: The Shure Music Phone Adaptor

The topic of iPod integration in the MINI is nothing new on MotoringFile. Options abound for getting your music through the speakers of your MINI’s stereo. With everything from integrated factory and ICE-LINK adaptors, to factory AUX port adaptors, to head-unit replacement. Each option has its inherent advantages of function and integration, and disadvantages of sound quality, chord management, or price.

Another common topic is that of mobile phone integration, particularly BlueTooth solutions both OEM and after market. Like with iPod integration, the available solutions vary in cost, compatibility, and function.

MINI drivers with Apple’s iPhone face both integration problems at once. Many of the iPod adaptors have proven to work just fine for the music functions of the iPhone, but unless you’ve also installed some sort of bluetooth kit in your MINI, that’s only half of the iPhone equation. Likewise, the iPhone will only pipe telephone audio through its BlueTooth connection, no music.

For MINI owners like myself – with neither an OEM / ICE Link iPod adaptor nor a BlueTooth adaptor in my Cooper S – most have no interest in spending $600+, but with just a little ingenuity there is a basic solution for as little as $40.

Firstly, this method leaves it up to you to figure out how and where to mount or cubby your iPhone safely and securely. I’m using a universal windshield mount so that I can use the iPhone’s Google Maps function as a poor man’s GPS. But where you put yours is up to you. Secondly, this won’t charge your iPhone, but there are a number of car chargers for that and this won’t interfere with any of those. Lastly, it’s common sense with any car mod, but especially with something involving a mobile phone in your car, that things like wires and handsets need to be secured as neatly as possible. Let’s motor safely.

What you’ll need

This solution requires only three components.

1. The MINI factory AUX Port adapter. Chances are, most of you without direct iPod integration are already using this to listen to your iPod. I use it in my MINI. On the R56, the AUX is standard equipment. For the R50/53, it’s available from your dealer for about $40.
2. The Shure Music Phone Adapter (MPA), which is available from your local Apple retail store or online at apple.com. This adapter adds a standard mobile phone hands-free microphone to any standard headphones. In this application, we’re going to use it to feed the audio form the iPhone into the MINI stereo, and also to capture our voice during telephone calls.
3. A male-to-male headphone patch cable – your local Radio Shack can hook you up. You shouldn’t need any longer than 3″ or so.

Installation

The mechanics are simple. Plug the MPA into your iPhone, plug one end of the patch cable into the MPA, then plug the other end of the patch cable into the MINI AUX. Stow your cables and you’re done. Now you can play music from your iPhone through your MINI stereo and if a call comes in, the iPhone fades down your music and you’ll hear your ring tone. You have the option of either answering the call using the touch-screen controls of your iPhone, or the answer button on the MPA “bulb.” When you answer, you’ll hear the person on the other end of the line through your MINI stereo speakers, and they’ll hear you through the mic on the MPA. I’ve had a couple of complaints about echo, but most of the time it works really well.

Mic location

Remember that it’s the mic bulb on the MPA that will allow people to hear you, not your iPhone. From my testing, the mic seems to be very directional, so mounting it in such a way as it faces you is just as important as mounting it as close to you as possible. I’ve secured the mic just below the tach on the steering column. Wherever you put it, be sure to face the side of the mic bulb with the two input vents toward you, not the button side.

Some quick tips on audio quality

Because we’re pulling audio from the headphone jack and not from the digital line out in the iPhone dock connection, the strength of the audio signal is going to depend on how loud you’ve set the volume on your iPhone. If the volume is too low, then you’ll have to crank the stereo volume to hear both music and telephone calls, and what you do hear will sound very hollow from the weakness of the signal. Likewise, if your volume is too high, your audio quality will sound muddy. In my testing, on the standard (non HK) R53 stereo, an iPhone volume of about 75% seemed to be the sweet spot between loudness and clarity. Also, be careful when unplugging the MPA from the iPhone. Unless you change the stereo input or turn off the MINI stereo all together, you’ll get a very loud pop that could easily damage your speakers. Same goes for when you plug it in.

All in all, this method is hardly a perfect or entirely elegant solution for iPhone integration. All the basic functions are there, but you’ll sacrifice a bit of audio quality. However, at only $40, the shortcomings are easy to overlook.

Thanks for sending this in Nathaniel! If you, the fine Motoringfile reader, has a device you would like to review, Let us know!

DIY Friday is back with one of the most interfaced parts of a manual transmission equipped MINI; the shift lever. And as you would expect it’s also one of the most upgraded parts of a MINI as well. One of our favorites we’ve found is the JCW Shift lever. While we were initially skeptical of the design, it didn’t take more than a couple of miles of driving with one before we were won over.

Installation is relatively straight forward however it is important to note that process for removing the lever is different than the previous generation of MINI’s. Due to this the the shift levers are not interchangeable between the first and second generation cars.

Also included in the PDF below are instruction for the e-brake grip (not one we find as essential as the shift knob mind you) and shift and e-brake boots.

[ R55/R56/R57 Shift Lever & E-Brake Grip ] Official MINI PDF

Recently I got some quiet time with the new MINI Clubman and immediately started studying some of the more interesting aspects of the vehicle. The first thing I spent time on was the rear barn doors.

Since the Clubman debuts on MotoringFile last August people have been asking the question – do I really have to get the black or silver trim on the back? While the official answer is yes, we found that it’s surprisingly easy to remove each piece of trim. As you can see in the photo above, the plastic tail-light trim is simply held on by a couple of screws. This opens up a world of possibilities, one of which is to buy an unpainted version and simply have it painted body color at your local dealer.

While the c-pillar is a little harder to get to, we were assured it was completely possible and, like the tail-light trim, is also just a piece of plastic.

Of course you can skip painting altogether and simple put silver trim on a silver car or just mix and match to your hearts content.

So for all you soon to be or would be Clubman owners, your ability to customize just increased a little.

After last week’s Ask MotoringFile marathon, we realized we still have a couple more that needed to be answered. However for today’s edition, we’ve got some professional help. The question comes courtesy of Dustin:

Is the R53 JCW kit a good idea to refresh your higher milage stock MCS? Providing that the R53 JCW engine kit still available at dealers (which I don’t know if it is or not, or how long MINI plans on producing them if they are) It would seem that the new head and SC fitted to a MINI at say the 100K mark would make the mechanicals sound for the next 100k (since the expected life of the SC is only 150k), plus the new HP would breathe new life into a car for a loyal owner.

Great question Dustin. While we like the JCW upgrade for the R53 quite a bit (and the R56 for that matter) we’re not sure if it’s the best solution if the car isn’t under the factory warranty at this point. Especially considering the cost. So in order to give you a good picture of your aftermarket options, we’d like to turn over this question to Eric Savage, owner of the renowned MINI tuner Helix and longtime friend and supporter of MF. He also knows a thing or two about brewing beer, but that’s a story from another time. Anyway, to the Eric’s answer…

The John Cooper Works package has always been a popular option for new MINI buyers for a couple of reasons: it has the prestige of a factory tuned car, and it carries the factory warranty. As far as I know, retrofitting the JCW kit on an high-mileage car does not extend the warranty on the car (or the new parts, for that matter) which makes it less attractive for the high-mileage MINI owner. The big knock on the JCW package has been its nearly $6000 price tag once installed. It is for that reason that companies such as Helix Minisports has made a living tuning our favorite cars. We can do what the JCW package does–and much more–for substantially less money.

The JCW package consists of a new supercharger (with smaller pulley), a lightly worked cylinder head, an intake, injectors, software and exhaust. All of these parts play well together to produce a fun boost in engine performance, if not an M3 eater on the highway. What I typically recommend is to address the performance of the total vehicle, so that you can easily dispatch that M3 in at least the twisties. Simple is always safer when tuning MINIs, so I’ll typically make two recommendations, one performance package that will accelerate with, and out-handle a JCW upgraded car, and one that will leave the JCW car panting. (Both can be put together and installed by any of MINI focused aftermarket tuners you see advertise on the pages of MotoringFile)

Package #1:

• Upgraded rear sway bar
• High quality summer performance tire
• 15% reduction supercharger pulley
• Free flow intake
• Good ECU tuning file

Your total cost including installation should run you about $1800 depending on who sells the parts and does the installations.

Or you could go for what I like to call the Full Monty in Package #2:

• Upgraded rear sway bar
• High quality summer performance tire
• 15% reduction supercharger pulley
• Free flow intake
• Good ECU tuning file
• High flow cylinder head
• high flow complete exhaust system
• high temperature street/track brake pads
• high temperature brake fluid

Package #2 could cost you approximately the same as a JCW kit, but in return you’ll get a car capable of laying a MINI smack down on everything but the most expensive sports cars, and you’d leave the JCW car in the dust, all while retaining excellent drivability and reliability. All of these parts are of course sold a la carte by any number of shops, so that you can tailor the car to your specific needs and desires. Be sure to speak to an expert to be sure that all of the performance parts you are considering work well together. And you can always contact me below.

Eric
Helix Minisports

After posting the R56 instructions yesterday, it occurred to us that we had never officially offered the first generation MINI’s grille badge instructions on the site. So if you have an R50, R52 or R53 and a few favorite magnetic MotoringBadge’s in mind, here’s your official DIY PDF straight from MINI.

[ R50/R52/R53 Grille Badge Holder ] Official MINI PDF

[ R56 Grille Badge Holder ] Official MINI PDF

One of our favorite upgrades to the R56 is the JCW Aerokit. And not only does it give the car a more aggressive look, but it’s actually somewhat functional in helping keep the car planted at very high speeds.

But it can also be a bit costly. So to give MotoringFile readers a helping DIY hand, we present you the official install guide PDF. While you’ll still need to order it and have it painted at a MINI dealer, the install is possible in the confines of your own garage.

[ JCW Aerokit ] Official MINI PDF (for Euro and US models)

You’ve heard the rumors, seen the photos, and read the reviews and even our recent comparison test. Now (as is tradition on MotoringFile) it’s time to pour over the official PDF installation instructions.

[ Dealer Installed JCW Engine Kit ] Official MINI PDF (for Euro and US models)

[ MINI Baby Seat Install Guide ] Official MINI PDF

Not available for the US market.

[ Clubman Cargo Cover ] Official MINI Install PDF

One of the more improved accessories with the R56 has to be the JCW Shift Indicator lights. Where the previous version was big, bulky and rather out of place on the R53, it’s now subtle and integrated on the R56. It also makes a bit more sense on the R56 (rather than the R53) due to the quick revving nature of the engine.

The kit retails for $260 but can be had cheaper if you check with a few MotoringFile sponsors. And as pointed out in the comments, it has also been successfully retrofitted to the R53.

[ JCW Gear Shift Indicator Retrofit ] Official MINI PDF

[ Rear Plate PDC ] Official MINI PDF

Related:

[ Official Rear Parking Distance Retrolfit ] MotoringFile

Here’s a question I’ve personally received from a couple readers:

Hi guys, I have a quick question for Gabe. I notice when looking at photos of your R56 JCW Cooper S that your headlights are completely ‘clear’. By this I mean that when you purchase ‘white signals’ from Mini as an option you still see an orange bulb when looking at the headlights head on. Now for the obvious question, what have you done to make it completely clear? Did you change the bulb out and if so would you mind letting me know where I can purchase it and the part # etc. Thanks so much.

Great question with an easy answer. I’m using bulbs you can actually buy from your local BMW dealer. They’re made for BMWs but fit in your MINI perfectly (any model). The BMW USA part number is: 63 21 7 160 897. If that doesn’t work, just ask for “Silvervision” bulbs.

And yes, these bulbs should fit in all other MINIs as well.

Aftersales is pleased to announce the release of the John Cooper Works Sport Suspension for the MY07 MINI Cooper and MINI Cooper S hardtop.

The John Cooper Works Sport Suspension for the 2007 Cooper and Cooper S is designed to give ambitious, sporty drivers an exciting, yet safe driving experience. The tighter sporty chassis tuning combined with the lower ride height of the car creates a fantastic feel behind the wheel. To create an optical effect distinguishes the suspension tuning, the coil springs have a red finish.

The Sport Suspension kit includes four McPherson strut shock absorbers, two stabilizer bars and the required mounting parts. The coil springs need to be ordered separately, depending on the options installed on the individual vehicle.

Sales features/Benefits

The targets for the development of the John Cooper Works Sport Suspension have been:

• Increased cornering
• Improved traction
• Reduced roll angle in corners

To achieve these targets, stiffer springs are the heart of the sport suspension kit to lowering the center of gravity. The shock absorbers are customized for these stiffer springs, with a shorter piston rod and a special control valve assembly. This combination allows improved road holding in combination with enough ride comfort for the day-to-day driving. The excellent coordination between the front and rear axle damping, combined with the stabilizer bars, reduces lateral roll of the vehicle body and provides a more dynamic and sporty driving experience.

The shorter and tighter coil springs lower the car by 10mm compared to the optional MINI Cooper S sport suspension. The reduced ride height is obviously visible, giving the car, especially in combination with the JCW Aerokit, a significantly sportier and aggressive look. Why only 10mm lower? The John Cooper Works Sport Suspension has not been developed for a smooth racetrack. It has been developed to deliver enhanced cornering speed on different road surfaces, like twisting mountain roads. That is the main reason why the car has been lowered by just 10mm. As the main development targets, it was important that even with the improved road holding, the suspension had to deliver an acceptable amount of comfort. The John Cooper Works Sport Suspension also harmonizes perfectly with the MINI DSC system. This is another unique feature of this suspension kit. Cars with aftermarket suspensions with extremely lowered ride height may lose traction on uneven surfaces which can lead to interruptions of the smooth operation of the DSC system.

To improve the steering response and get even more precise handling, we recommend the combination of the sport suspension with 18″ John Cooper Works Wheels. In addition, the large wheels together with the lowered ride height deliver an impressive custom look.

Depending on the option a customer has chosen for his/her MINI, the weight differs from car to car. Given these differences, there is a benefit of the JCW Sport Suspension Kit over most aftermarket kits: The possibility to use different springs to adopt the suspension to the MINI, depending on the actual weight of the car.

Parts Information:

(ITEM PART NUMBER M.S.R.P.)

• John Cooper Works Sport Suspension 33 50 0 429 708 $ 875.00
• Coil Spring front (1) 31 33 6 782 728 $ 105.00
• Coil Spring front (1) 31 33 6 782 729 $ 105.00
• Coil Spring front (1) 31 33 6 782 730 $ 105.00
• Coil Spring rear (1) 33 53 6 782 731 $ 105.00
• Coil Spring rear (1) 33 53 6 782 732 $ 105.00
• Coil Spring rear (1) 33 53 6 782 733 $ 105.00

(1) Part number is for one spring. Two front and two rear springs are required for a complete installation.

Related:

[ MF Review: R56 JCW Sport Suspension ] MotoringFile

[ R56 JCW Spoiler ] Official MINI Install PDF