Tuesday the US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration opened an investigation into potential power steering problems of the 2004-2005 MINI. The site lists this as involving MINI “Coopers” but we believe this could likely include both the Cooper and the Cooper S given that the agency says that this could involve about 80,000 vehicles.

If the power steering should go out the effort needed to turn the steering wheel (mostly at low speeds) would increase dramatically.

At this point MINI claims it has no confirmation on any accidents that may have been caused the issue. We’ll have more shortly.

The stock MINI out of the box has a remarkable stiff chassis. But, that’s not going to stop aftermarket accessory makers from trying to make an even more rigid car. That’s where M7 Tuning has worked their magic. Gabe previously reviewed the understrut system by M7 here on MF, and so this is my review of their rear chassis brace.

For you suspension geeks out there, I thought I should establish where I’m coming from on my 2006 R50. I have a Sport Suspension Plus set of springs and shocks from an early 2003 MCS (before the suspension was softened), front fixed camber plates and a SS+ rear sway bar. It’s stiff and a whole lot of fun. Turn-in is quick and I can induce a smidgen of oversteer either by lifting off the throttle and trail braking. No other FWD car I’ve driven is as responsive.

The rear suspension on the MINI is surprisingly sophisticated for a car of its size. The multi-link setup still sets the MINI apart from other cars in its class like the Nuova Fiat 500 (torsion spring rear axle) and the VW Polo (semi-independent). The problem is that there is no good place to brace the rear of the car in order to eliminate flex. But, thinking outside the box, M7′s solution is a brace which goes in between the two latches for the rear seats.

Unpacking the parts and pieces was a fairly standard procedure. Everything arrived in bubble wrap, nuts and bolts were packaged in a compartmentalized plastic baggie. M7 is even kind enough to include two allen wrenches to aid installation. Not included were a 10 mm wrench, a 13 mm socket and paper instructions.

The build quality of the parts was impressive. The most impressive piece was the top bar; a hollow black anodized aluminum bar with specially manufactured ends which bolt to the chassis. It’s too bad that this product likely won’t be seen by most passengers because it’s really nice. The engineering was to impressive, tight standards and everything fit together with very little tolerance. M7 says that this is ‘pre-tensioning’ and aids the overall effectiveness of the system. The side pieces attach to the bottom of the chassis, utilizing hooks normally used for strapping down cargo. One cross beam keeps these side bars stiff at the bottom.

Installation took me about 45 minutes at a careful pace. When it’s assembled it becomes even more apparent how much homework M7 did on this product. Although the top bar bolts on behind the rear seats, the RCB does not affect their operation one iota.

And so, I took to the streets. Driving up one of my favorite local roads immediately made the brace’s effect known to me. The rear end of the car feels like it’s one solid piece, and I could feel the vehicle rotate around me more in turns. It’s a subtle trait that doesn’t disrupt day-to-day driving and is only of use in more spirited driving situations.

My only qualm with the product is the fact that the shape the braces create is a rectangle, one of the least rigid geometric shapes. This is because it’s all too easy for a rectangle to be shifted into a parallelogram, diminishing the absorption of force from its corners. And given that M7 was likely trying to strike a compromise between functionality of the brace and cargo space, I can understand which shape they chose for the brace. However, there is a pretty good chunk of passthrough cargo space which is eaten up by the RCB even with this compromise. I would prefer to see the next iteration of this design consist of two bars crossing (creating an ‘x’) attached to the top brace for an even more hardcore level of chassis stiffening.

MotoringFile Rating: 4 (out of five)

Where to Buy: The M7 Rear Chassis Brace is available from M7 Tuning for $279 plus shipping. I tested the R50/53 version, but there is also a version available for the R56.

With this article we are introducing our latest MotoringFile contributor Brendan Nystedt. Brendan has been a MINI enthusiast for quite a few years and currently owns a 2006 MINI Cooper (R50). Look for more from Brendan – especially on the topics of modifications and the R50/R53.

One of the greatest things about owning a MINI is the variety of ways to make the car yours.  Numerous vendors offer all sorts of add-ons from full chrome interior kits to skid plates to rear wiper delete kits. These five mods are my favourite mods which didn’t cost me very much and have added even more enjoyment to my 2006 MINI Cooper.

1. Front Cabrio Braces.

Originally developed for the R52 (first-gen Convertible), these braces fit between the lower front frame and the strut towers.  The engineers at MINI deemed these a necessary addition to the Convertibles due to the lack of a roof.   Now, they can be added to your MINI so you can take advantage of the additional structural enhancement.  They are cheaper than buying a full-blown front strut brace and have a stealthy, stock-like appearance.  Because the cabrio braces are a stock part, they may be ordered through your BMW parts counter or through various discount BMW parts houses on the internet (mention MotoringFile for a discount at sponsoring dealers).  Additionally, for those willing to pay a bit more, Way Motor Works offers them powdercoated in red or blue.  Out the door for a stock set I paid around $48 including shipping.  That gets you 2 braces and 8 torx-headed bolts with which to attach the braces.  Count on about 45 minutes to install.  It can be very tricky getting the bottom bolts lined up properly.

Caveat Emptor: Because these were developed for the cabrio, the mounting holes were added in the chassis to coincide with the Euro release of the drop-top MINI in 2004.  Cars built from approximately 2002 to early 2004 likely do not have the threaded holes with which to mount the braces.  Be sure to check for the tell-tale black plugs where the bolts thread into.  If you’re hellbent on installing the braces, early MINI owners have drilled holes and used bolts, nutserts and one even welded them his to his car.  Check around on North American Motoring and do your homework before attempting such an installation.

Where to purchase: Your local BMW Parts counter, Sponsoring dealers (Morristown, MINI of Manhattan, Otto’s MINI), Way Motor Works.

2. FES Auto-Up Circuit.

Picture courtesy of FES Auto

Sold by MINI patron saint Matt Richter, FES offers this time-tested design based off the original Ian Cull Auto-Up circuit.  What this device does is add auto-up windows to your MINI.  This means no more holding the toggles up while trying to shift.  Instead, a quick double click up on the toggles sends the windows closing of their own volition.  But, as they used to say, that’s not all.  The Auto-Up Circuit also includes a programmable feature called Track-Mode DSC.  This feature automatically disables DSC when the car is started.  FES advises that this only be used on a race track but I know of at least one speed demon who drives his MINI without DSC most of the time in order to avoid the dreaded electronic nanny.  On the latest version, there’s even more features than the version that I have.  The Auto-Up Circuit costs $50 and is available on FES Auto’s website.  The instructions are included and require a few torx drivers and some muscle to remove the knee bolster panel underneath the steering wheel.  Which leads me to my next mod.

Where to buy: FES Auto

3. Euro Parcel Shelf.

Courtesy of Moss Mini

Back when men were real men, women were real women and MINI drivers all waved at each other, BMW used to allow orders of this excellent part.  It’s a replacement for the flat, textured piece of plastic that goes underneath the steering wheel.  It gives the driver a great place to stick parking tickets and half-eaten crullers.  Because of the fact that the part isn’t Department of Transportation approved for US consumption, BMW no longer sells it on this side of the pond.  But fortunately, one company still stocks the piece and sells it– Moss Mini.  They charge $130 for the shelf and a rubberized mat which goes on top of the shelf.  A good one-two combo of mods would be to install the FES Auto-Up Circuit at the same time as installing the parcel shelf.  It could save the intrepid modder from having to remove the stock knee bolster twice.

Where to purchase: Moss Mini

4. CG Lock.

Taking corners quickly is just about a MINI’s favourite activity.  But, the problem is that the driver often will slide around in his or her seat, losing touch with what’s going on while trying to defeat the forces of physics.  This device lets the driver cinch down the lap belt, effectively pinning down the hips to the seat bottom.  The manufacturer mentions that their product offers most of the effective restraint of a full racing harness.  This is a great mod for those thinking about getting a race harness in their MINI.  Race harnesses just aren’t safe in street cars because the driver is pinned down in the event of a roll-over accident.  Race harnesses are meant to be paired with a roll cage, keeping the roof of a car from collapsing if it goes ass over teakettle.  But, in a street car the harness locks the driver’s torso into the seat so it cannot move to the side if the pillars collapse, crushing the driver.  CG Lock allows performance-minded drivers on road and racetrack an alternative to a harness while enabling clear communication between your backside and the road.  The CG Lock is available at many Pep Boys locations nationwide as well as direct from their website.  Mine set me back around $60.  Expect to pay between $40 and $60.

Where to purchase: Pep Boys, Helix Minisports

5. Aftermarket Air Filter

Courtesy of Outmotoring.com

Even if you’re not concerned about the performance of your MINI this is a great mod.  I bought a K&N filter as my first modification to my car.  BMW designed the MINI to use disposable, paper element filters which are not only wasteful but also lacking in the efficiency department.  By buying a cotton or foam filter you’re making an investment for the lifetime of the car.  In fact, the K&N filters have a million mile warranty and are washable.  K&N quotes horsepower gain but I feel the best reason to buy this filter is because you can use it again and again.  Make sure you order the right part for your particular model year and transmission.  Expect to pay around $50.  Also, in order to clean the filter you’ll need to spend another $15 on the cleaning kit which is good for many filter cleanings.  Be sure to take a minute to feel warm and fuzzy that they’re still (for the most part) made in the USA.

Where to purchase: Local chain auto parts stores, Outmotoring.com

I’ve found in my ownership of a MINI that some mods come with luck.  My best advise to the modder on a budget is to troll your local craigslist relentlessly.  If you’re not lucky enough to live in a place with many MINI owners, join a forum (the best for the US being North American Motoring) and start checking the marketplace section.  Many of the parts on my car were purchased from other MINI owners as take offs from their cars (suspension, sway bar, toggle switches, stainless exhaust).  You never know what kind of great deals and eccentric parts and pieces you may come across.  Make friends, mod your car, learn new and interesting things.  That’s what motoring is all about.

BMW has a history of producing enormous amounts of parts and sitting them on shelves for many years. However when it comes to accessories long-term availability is something less than a certain thing. And when it comes to a new brand and a new sub-brand within it, you can imagine BMW was relatively safe with their production numbers. This all means that those R50/R53 JCW parts that you’ve been lusting after since 2005 have quickly dwindling inventories and could be gone within the year. Perhaps the most telling example is the full leather JCW steering wheel. According to our sources there are only two new examples left in the US parts system (dealers or warehouse). We’re told that invetories aren’t much (if any) better in Europe either. The leather/alcantara version (see our review here) is also in short supply but we’re told is in slightly better shape.

Other than the steering wheel we’ve also been warned that the R50 JCW aero kit (and to a lesser degree the R53′s) has dwindling numbers and could be gone soon as well.

Perhaps the most sad personally is the leather dash that we lavishly heaped praise on a few years ago. Most of those unique stitching color examples are gone and the black with contrasting red leather we reviewed is very low in numbers as well.

The worst part? MINI has no plans to produce any of these accessories for the R50/R53 again. They will simply become sought after collectors items on the best examples of first generation New MINIs.

Related:

+ MF Review: JCW Alcantara Steering Wheel (R53) / MotoringFile

+ MF Review: JCW Leather Dash / MotoringFile

Ah the CVT. The answer to all of our problems. Its step-less shifting was to be both good for performance and economy while giving you a wafting cloud like experience. That is until it fails costing the owner $8,000 to replace. It’s been a huge frustration for quite a few R50 owners who opted for the CVT over the manual with many failures happening just around the time the warranty expires.

One automaker who also embraced CVTs around the same time period is Nissan. In fact they are still putting them in cars while MINI has very publicly shifted back to torque converter automatics. And as you’d expect there are many Nissan owners with similar CVT failures. So much so that Nissan has just announced a doubling of it’s warranty to 10 years or 120,000 covering the CVT. In addition to that Nissan is also reimbursing owners who have already shelled out thousands on replacements overly slushy slush boxes.

At this point MINI hasn’t acknowledged the issue and it’s not clear that they will ever do so. However if you’ve had your CVT fail on your R50 MINI, make sure you’re voice is heard both at your local dealer and at MINI USA corporate. BMW has a history of eventually taking care of large scale issues. We have no idea if this will be one of them but it’s certainly worth taking up the ladder so to speak.

You can read the corporte letter to CVT owners from Nissan at Autoblog

Related:

Detailed Technically Assessment on the CVT / MotoringFile

Random Thoughts on MINI Loaners and the CVT / MotoringFile

MF Review: 2003 MINI Cooper CVT / MotoringFile

One of the most viewed parts of our sites has to be the R50/R53 buyers guide we launched back in 2008. And while we felt it was a good introduction to the cars for those looking to buy used, we new it would need to be updated periodically. Our latest updates have focused around the additional oil leak issues that have cropped up over the last year or so.

But we also need you. We’d like to hear what issues you’re having with your R50 or R53 so we can help build out our buyers guide even further. Sound off in the comments section below.

+ R50/R53 Buyers Guide / MotoringFile

This week’s Ask MF comes courtesy of Lisa:

I want to purchase a roof rack for my 2005 Mini Cooper.  Please point me in the right direction.  Should I buy Thule, Yakima, or other?  Which is best/ easiest to work with?  Which foot  packs, etc do I need?  I want to haul kayaks and bikes.  I’m sorry for all the questions but I keep getting different answers from different websites and distributors.  Thanks for any help that you can give me.

We’ve had experience with Yakima and the OEM rack but would like to throw this out o our readers. Let’s hear it MINI owners, sound of below…

Related:

+ MF Quick Reivew: Yakima Rack / MotoringFile

Dare we say it Autoexpress has created a pretty interesting article. They’ve taken 12 of the best MINIs ever and tested them all. Worth a read for sure but there’s no definitive conclusion unfortunately.

+ Greatest Mini Ever / Autoexpress

This week we’re cleaning out the in box a bit and getting to some Ask MF’s we’ve had in the queue for awhile. The first of the week was sent in by Tim:

I was trying to find the JCW website.  Prior to MINI take-over, JCW had a completely separate website.  I’m only getting links to MINIUSA or MINIUK now. What I’m trying to do is contact someone knowledgeable about the R50 works head, specifically if there is a recommended cam or profile to get the best out of the head.  I know from prior experience MINIUSA won’t have a clue and the JCW R50 is so rare in the States there’s no reason to post in popular forums. Your expertise is appreciated.

Prior to MINI take-over, JCW had a completely separate website that included detailed technical information. Unfortunately now that JCW is fully owned by BMW that site is down and the tech expertise you’re looking for would be best found by a few folks who have likely made their way to independent garages in the UK. So thus we’re throwing this question out to our readers. If any of you know about the JCW R50 (specifically the head) or know someone who does, sound off in the comment section below.

Related:

+ R50 JCW Cooper Review / MotoringFile

This should be available at any MINI dealer in the US (via special order).

[ Rear Plate PDC ] Official MINI PDF

Related:

[ Official Rear Parking Distance Retrolfit ] MotoringFile

Automobile Magazine has a great piece in this month’s magazine that details 12 of it’s favorite used car deals. But why is it great? Ok it may have something to do with the website they used as a source for the article. Here’s an excerpt:

The current version of the new Mini is bigger, faster, more refined, and better engineered than its predecessor. But it was the original car, introduced in the States in 2002, that inspired a grassroots eruption of Mini mania, and its smiley-face charisma and go-kart performance promise to make it an enduring cult hero. “It will be a classic,” says Gabriel Bridger, founder of MotoringFile.com, one of the country’s most authoritative Mini Web sites. “It brought sportiness and efficiency to the masses, and it’s authentic in a way that modern cars aren’t. It will be one of the last mass-produced cars to have a vintage-car feel.”

The interview that we did for the article was thorough and the author (Preston Lerner) was able to create a concise four paragraph piece that hit most of the high points of the R50/R53 ownership.

+ 12 Used All-Stars / Automobile

Seven years ago on March 22nd 2002 the first MINI dealers in the US opened their doors. While this may be US specific I think the enthusiasm of that time translates well to any market and any language. Personally I vividly remember showing up at the local MINI dealer that morning in an effort to get to know the Cooper and Cooper S demos fresh off the truck. Naturally I was totally floored by how the car felt and I immediately put the wheels in motion for my initial MINI purchase. You can get a sense of that excitement in my first short review of the car as posted on March 22nd 2002 on the web:

First off I was surprised at how capable and flat out fun the base Cooper is. It’s almost fun enough to forget about the S entirely. Especially considering the short lead-time (ordering an S will set the purchase back to June). The Cooper’s main weakness in my mind is the 45-70 acceleration. You must be “involved” with the transmission to get to 70 quickly. But that’s part of the fun as well. The Cooper I drove had the 16s and was definitely more harsh than my BMW 325ci with 17s. But keep in mind it wasn’t rough. It also didn’t have the sport seats causing me to have to literally hang onto the wheel while cornering.

The S was quite a nice package. However it didn’t “feel” as quick as I had expected off the line. Because of the smoothness of the power it felt a bit laid back where I would have expected otherwise. The immediacy steering in both cars put my 325ci to shame however. When I got back into it after both drives it felt too isolated and numb in comparison. Overall I was really surprised at the lack of difference between the MC and the MCS below 30 mph.

The thing that hits you when you see the MINI for the first time on the road is it’s presence. It’s such a strange thing for such a small car to have so much presence.

We want to hear your stories of the those first MINI drives and sightings. Were you on hand for the launch seven years ago? If not what was your first MINI experience like? Sound off below but please – no bashing.

This week’s Ask MF comes from Demian:

I wanted to let you know that your website is a great one! I daily check for updates and info. In regards to used minis, I am looking for a used 2005 and later model. Could you recommend an adequate price range for these models? Any website recommendations for used minis?

Assuming you’re looking for an R50/R53 (they were made from 2001 through 2006 worldwide) it’s really hard to say what prices to expect or even what currency you’re talking about. However if you’re located in the US we’d recommend starting your search in the normal used car places like Cars.com and Autotrader.com. While some forums have a decent selection you need to be aware that some of the cars offered are forum based sites can be heavily modified. Obviously this is not always the best thing for used car longevity. Unless of course you don’t mind that.

But enough of our suggestions. Let’s hear from MF readers. Where would you look? What would you expect to pay for a 2005 – 2006 MC and MCS?

We’re reposting this Ask MF originally from last year due to a number of similar questions we’ve gotten over the last few weeks.

This week’s “Ask MotoringFile” comes from Dave M and is quickly becoming a very common question:

I have a 2008 MCS on order and am relatively new to the MINI world. I couldn’t help but notice everyone using these code names for different models of MINIs. What does it all mean?

MINI models follow a similar system to the (seemingly ancient) BMW model internal naming convention. Since we often talk about different models (sometimes in the same story, paragraph or even sentence), using the internal model code-names is often the easiest way to quickly identify what model of MINI we’re referring to.

The first generation of BMW MINI’s started with the R50 which was meant to be the coupe version of the car. However once that model number was established BMW decided to produced a higher power version called the Cooper S. Because the development work was started later it was given a different code-name – the R53. The R52 was actually conceived before the Cooper S and thus has the code-name R52. And for those wondering, the R51 was a concept that never made it past the conception stages.

With the second generation MINI, BMW had things planned out a bit better. That meant the entire range of 2nd generation coupes would use the R56 code and the convertibles R57. The Clubman was designated R55 since initial work had started on the concept before the R56.

So why the big gap between the R57 and the new R60 SUV MINI? We’ve been told that is simply due to several concepts which have either been shelved or delayed.

If you ever need a quick reminder we have the cheat-sheet (seen below) on the lower left of every MotoringFile page. Each code-name links to the subsequent MotoringFile section for each car. A handy way to see all posts referring to individual models.

1st Gen MINI

• R50: One & MC Coupe
• R52: All 1st Gen MINI Convt.
• R53: MCS Coupe

2nd Gen MINI

• R55: Clubman
• R56: One/MC/MCS Coupe
• R57: One/MC/MCS Convt.
• R60: MINI SUV

BMW’s customer service told Heather this wasn’t a common fault, which is surprising because we’ve heard from dozens of other Mini owners who’ve told us they’ve had exactly the same problem, and have had to fork out anything up to £800 for the repair.

Not a common fault? Show of hands to those of you that have had power steering problems. As it turns out, we are not alone.

Matt Pike is an independent Mini mechanic, and a supplier of spare parts. He says he can barely keep up with demand for replacement power steering pumps: “At least 60 per cent of our regular customers have all had pumps changed. And we’re getting at least two calls a day from people after power steering pumps because they’re such a big failure. I’d say it’s the most common problem we have with the Minis.”

This is something that already happened to me and I think the unit I have installed now is also going bad. I also think I’m lucky in that it didn’t fail until almost 180K miles. I know many R53 owners who have had the power steering go out shortly after the warranty expires.

If you are in the market for an R50 or R53, take a minute to check out the R50/R53 Buyers Guide. Many of the issues that affected the first generation MINIs, including power steering, are listed here.

[ MINI Power Steering Failures ] BBC.co.uk

This is a question we get asked quite a bit around these parts. It’s also a question that we have covered in a few older episodes of White Roof Radio.

MF Reader Chris writes.

I know nobody trusts Consumer Reports, but they appear to say that Mini Cooper reliability improved greatly from 2005 on. Would it be safe to purchase a 2005 – 2006 Mini Cooper, or should I save up enough money for a 2007 (new model)? Is reliability in the earlier models really that bad?

Keeping in mind that I have a 2003 R50 MINI Cooper with 200+ miles, I would say (and Gabe agrees) to stay away from the earlier MINIs (’02 – ’03) if you can. There are quite a few build issues with these older cars and if you find one that wasn’t properly tended to you might end up with more headaches that you could handle.

However, moving into the newer model years, it becomes more a matter of what you want and how you want it to look. You didn’t say if you were looking for a Cooper or an MCS, but this should cover you either way.

If you like the look of the R50/R53, then you would be a pretty good shape with an ’05 or ’06. If I had to pick, I would get the newest you could find. Keep in mind that these cars are running the Tritec engine, not the BMW-sourced mill. For the MCS it’s the difference between an iron blog and a supercharger (R53) or an aluminum block and a turbo (R56). On the Cooper, it’s not quite as telling, but you will get better fuel economy out of a R56. More information about these cars can be found over the Motoringfile R50/R53 Buyers Guide.

Something to consider about the earlier R56s is the cold start issue has affected some cars. Of course the severity of the issue is up for debate. And then there’s the hot topic of long tail pipes, but a dealer can sort that out for you.

I believe that you would get good reliability out of any MINI built after 2005. Keep in mind that all MINIs come with a 4 year/50,000 mile warranty and covered service for 3 years/36,000 miles. Also remember that any car can and may have issues and you would be greatly served by checking out the service history of any MINI you might be interested in buying. You should be able to take the last 7 digits of the VIN to any MINI Service center and have them check the records for you.

What about the rest of you? Late model R50/R53 or ’07 R56?

It’s official as you can see from the photo. My MINI eclipsed the 200,000 mile mark recently and thought it would be a good time to give you my thoughts about this car since it has more than 10 years worth of normal driving miles on it.

I got my MINI on March 9th, 2003 and hit my first 100K miles on October 7th, 2005. Lots of miles for work, lots for SCMM events and just general motoring.

This 100,000 miles did take a little bit longer, mostly due to the extreme increases in the price of gas. When I bought my MINI, I was paying $1.899 for a gallon of premium in SoCal. We all know the rest of that story. I also drove less for work, which is another reason why it took a bit more than 3 years to hit this 100K versus 2.5 for the last.

I’ve said this here many times before, but the MINI is the best car I have ever owned. Except the alternator going out and getting 1 flat tire, this car has never left me stranded and never not started. I’ve driven this car in pouring rain, searing heat and even snow without a hitch. Never thought I would lose control and have always felt safe, even driving next to 18-wheelers with 60MPH gusts!

The following is a recap of the life of my MINI. Follow the jump!

Where I have been

Thanks to this amazing little car, I have been able to do some pretty cool things, meet almost all of you plus other great people and go to places I’m sure I would have not gone to otherwise.

I have…

• Helped to start one of the largest MINI Cooper Clubs in the world, Southern California MINI Maniacs (SCMM)
• Started a little podcast called White Roof Radio with Todd and Gabe. Thanks to you, it is one of the most popular automotive podcasts in the world!
• Been an editor at Motoringfile.com for more than 2 years
• Been the “Official” something at AMVIV, MTTS (covered it twice) and MINI United 2007.
• Driven to the Grand Canyon
• Driven on the track over 40 hours!
• Driven on the Las Vegas Strip with over 200 other MINIs, more roads than I can count with 30 or more

Pretty amazing stuff, all because of the MINI!

Repairs

Since my MINI was built in the first year (11/15/02 to be exact), the first 50k miles were slightly problematic, but covered under warranty. Steering wheel, seats, latches, numerous software updates and a new transmission are on the list of things that were replaced or repaired. In total, my MINI spent over 1 month at the dealer for the first 50K miles. Did I mind? Not even a little bit.

From 50K to 100K everything was exactly perfect except for the A/C pump going out during the hottest summer we have seen in 20 years. It was replaced and now my MINI has a part on it that can turn sub-12 second quarter mile times, should I ever need to do that.

Once I passed 100K, wear and tear started setting in. First thing to be done was a tune-up, which is fairly minor. I was amazed it didn’t need it until 120K miles. After that was the battery at about 145K. Should you need this, I highly recommend going to the dealer. I’ve recently tried a battery that was non OEM and the bracket to hold it in it’s little box wouldn’t fit correctly.

Next up was the power steering pump. And it wasn’t cheap. If you are getting up in miles and think yours might be failing, be sure to have an extra $US1,000 handy for the job.

Following that, I had a control arm break. Scary, but cheap and easy to fix.

Finally, at exactly 200K miles, the alternator decided to give up the ghost. While I was driving in the middle of the California desert. At night. It made for a fun experience.

Wish List

I’ve really not had to do to much to my MINI to make sure everytime I put in the key and turn it, it starts. There are still some things that I really need to get done, hopefully sooner than later.

• Complete suspension rebuild, including new upper control arms for the rear, shocks and springs. And all the parts that make the MINI front-drive.
• Radiator. It doesn’t really leak, more like a slow steam. Not a concern now, but I want to replace it before it becomes one
• Belts and hoses. After installing the alternator, replacing the main belt on my car might be doable, if not terribly time consuming. Hoses shouldn’t be too bad either.
• Wiring harness. This is a concern for many reasons. I’m hopeful that getting it replaced will also turn the airbag light off. Pretty sure this one will have to happen at the dealer
• Brakes. New rotors and pads this time around. Power slot rotors have lasted me 170K miles, so I’m pretty sure I will use them again.

Overall impressions

There isn’t anything that I don’t like about this car. I can keep up with you in your MCS on the track and get 35MPG on the drive home. I can cruise at 70MPH all day long in comfort. I can suffer in bad traffic or dodge the cell phone using idiots on SoCal freeways with ease.

Besides the cost of dealer service being extraordinarily high in my opinion, this car hasn’t even cost me too much. Sure the repairs I need to do will be a bit spendy, but my car is, essentially, 10 years old (depending on who’s math you use). Most cars that are as old as mine always require something.

Like I mentioned above, Roxy has always started when I turn the key. Always moved when in gear and has done so with more style, flair and fun than any other car I have ever driven. This is a car I hope to keep in my driveway for as long as possible!

If you have 18″ OEM MINI wheels on your car put on by the dealer, odds are you have the steering stop installed on your car. The reason? Apparently under extreme circumstances MINI found that the tires with this set up will rub the inner fenders slightly. Their solution? To restrict the steering angle enough to prevent it from happening. The downside? Increased turning radius.

However it’s worth noting that many owners without the steering stop and the 18″ OEM set-up do not experience any rubbing whatsoever. So that begs the question, why in the world would anyone want to install this on their car? We’re not entirely sure. So consider this as much as a installation guide as it is a un-installation guide for those who might have this kit on their car and either have switched to a different 17″ or 18″ set-up or simply want more turning radius.

Steering Stop | Official MINI PDF

Sight unseen, Vargas bought the car over the Internet through a dealer in Bolivia for $7,000. He then spent $5,000 shipping the car of his dreams to Los Angeles, down the Pacific Coast to Chile, and over the Andes Mountains to Cochabamba, Bolivia.

Vargas said he had no idea that he was buying a car that had spent several weeks stewing in saltwater. ABC News learned that many Katrina cars ended up here in Bolivia and in other Latin American countries that are too poor to monitor car imports.

The take-away here should be, as always, if a deal sounds too good to be true, then it probably is.

[ From Hurricane Katrina to Bolivia? The Journey of a Flooded Car ] ABCnews.com

Frank Stephenson, lead design of the R50 MINI, has joined the McLaren as its Design Director. That’s according to the Cardesignews.com. Here’s an excerpt from the site:

“McLaren is pleased to confirm that Frank Stephenson will shortly join as Design Director,” a company spokesperson told CDN, but would not reveal additional details. Stephenson was not prepared to comment.

It is presumed that Stephenson, who has worked on such acclaimed designs as the reinterpretation of the legendary Mini in 2001, will be based at the company’s facilities in Woking, Surrey, and be charged with building a design team for the sports car manufacturer.

The first road car produced by McLaren was the F1 supercar – designed by Gordon Murray and Peter Stevens – and the company also created the SLR McLaren for Mercedes-Benz. McLaren Cars is now aiming to create a competitor to Ferrari, Aston Martin and Porsche and become a serious player in the high-end sports car market.

Mr. Stephenson went from BMW/MINI to Ferrari, Maserati, Fiat and then Alpha Romeo before making the move.

+ Frank Stephenson to become Design Director at McLaren / CDN