I had just one day – St Louis to Indy. And I was dedicated to making it one to remember. So early this morning Todd and I (up way too early) shook off the cobwebs and headed out to the official MTTS meeting point – the St Louis Arch. At this point the GP was starting to sink in as a real live car and I must say that it was getting better looking the more I saw it.

After our Arch photo opp was over I was handed the keys to a GP courtesy of MINI USA. I might add that this particular car was broken in by none other than Fireball Tim and Hubie (the men responsible for the fastest MINI drag-car in the world). So I got some quality time to the tune of about four hours with the GP. First impressions: better than wow. This car is a complete package like nothing we’ve ever seen before. It’s not the fastest MINI out there, just the most complete MINI I’ve ever drive. MINI and BMW did a great job inside and out with the small details. The look of the car really makes sense in the real world as compared to the 2D world as seen on this site or countless magazines. In other words, don’t make your mind on this car’s looks until you’ve seen it in the flesh.

Driving The GP

I started out the drive telling Hubie that I’d probably still prefer a normal four seat ’06 over the GP if I were ordering today. By the middle I had realized that the GP would have to be given serious thought in the ordering process. At the end of the trip there was no doubt in my mind that I would have to order a GP if I were getting one of the last 2006 MINIs. It’s that good.

The power throughout the range was just phenomenal. It’s basically a JCW+. It just has a little bit more of everything. Power down low, up high and every conceivable flat spot has been eliminated in the middle. And the car just wants to rev and rev all the way to redline. This is just a different beast altogether as compared to my pullied stock MCS. And with the JCW suspension the car not only is better handling and more composed at the limit, it’s also surprisingly comfortable – even more so than my stock MCS.

With the JCW GP, MINI has succeeded in creating the ultimate factory R53 in every way.

I was very fortunate to get to know the car through all sorts of weather conditions and over almost every kind of road imaginable. And for that I must give a huge thanks to MINI USA, Fireball Tim and Hubie for bending schedules and accommodating me so graciously. While I’m giving thanks I should also give a tip of the hat to both Taylor and Todd for everything they helped with.

[ Gabe's MTTS Photos (St Louis to Indy) ] Flickr.com

Over the last week or so my respect for the Cooper S JCW kit has grown immeasurably. Driving almost 1,500 miles in seven days is a great way to find a car’s potential and its faults. Yet with the JCW MCS, the latter was almost impossible.

But before I get to my final thoughts on the car let me recap a bit. MINI USA gave me the keys to a 2006 MINI Cooper S with the JCW package and basically said, have at it and let the world know what you think. As the owner of a Cooper S with a pulley and a number of other modifications, this was a chance to do a direct comparison between the two cars and see what it was like to actually live with the JCW MCS. The test car was lightly specced. Chili Red/White roof, Sport package, JCW package and 18″ Matte Black JCW wheels. From a performance standpoint one couldn’t ask for anything more save for the JCW suspension or a full-on GP.

So I set out on a week of driving that included trips to the USGP, northern Wisconsin and my usual jaunts throughout Chicago. Highway mileage, Chicago grid-patterns and curving country roads provided the test-bed. Four short reviews later and I’m here to give you my final thoughts.

Let’s start with the comparison that everyone seemed to be asking about. How does the Cooper S w/the JCW kit compare to a modified MCS? First and foremost the JCW is smooth. I know it’s been said before but you just can’t say it enough. The car feels as if countless hours of testing went into every component in an effort to make the drivetrain as close to perfection as possible. It not only shows in the power but in the way it drives at low speeds around town. Where my MCS with a 15% pulley, Supersprint exhaust, and JCW intake can feel a little urgent and, at times, frantic (not bad things mind you), the JCW feels completely smooth and unflustered. It’s actually easier to drive smooth than any other MCS I’ve ever driven.

The JCW MCS also excels when the comparison turns to sheer power. The pulley (and the other mods) increase power, but they don’t add it in such a unified manner as the JCW kit. The 210bhp of the JCW is seemingly everywhere, in every gear and whenever you need it throughout the rev range.

There’s also the badge factor to consider. I had more than one person come up to the car and ask how I liked the JCW package. One guy came up to me while getting gas in central Indiana and said “nice MINI”. He changed that to “really nice MINI” once we noticed the JCW badge. There’s no questions $6000+ can get you more respect from people in the know. But since the kit contains no visual additions to the car, any added attention is from either the educated automobile enthusiast or other MINI owners.

For those who couldn’t care less about added distinction, yes the kit’s performance is as good as promised. Simply installing a pulley on an MCS does not match the experience that the JCW gives you. But that performance comes at price that makes the value of the kit all very relative. $6300 is a lot of money no matter how you slice it. And with the sport package a mandatory option for JCW equipped MINIs in the US, the price of admission is a stratospheric $29,150 including destination. That’s $4,000 over the price of my very well equipped 2005 MCS.

But asking if the JCW kit is worth it is a loaded question because it’s such an individual answer. Sure you get enormous piece of mind and performance that is untouchable by most modded MINIs. But there are many out there that simply can’t justify the cost despite how phenomenal the car is. In the end you simply have to ask yourself one little question; How fast do you want to go?

If I could order my car all over again, opting for the JCW package would be a very difficult decision. Part of the fun of ownership is slowly creating a faster, more individualized car. With the JCW kit there’s simply less to do and less to be involved in when it comes to mechanically modifying the car. But I must admit the power is addicting on a level that surprised me. Having driven a 210bhp JCW before, I had expected not to be very surprised by it all. But learning to rely on that power and even taking it for granted while flooring it in sixth gives you a new perspective on what you need vs. what you want. And sometimes what you want is what you need.

Related: JCW MCS Long Term Reviews (Parts 1 through 4) ] MotoringFile

The donor MINI is a 2002 R53. Great testbed for such a conversion. Be sure to click back to read all about their progress.

Anyone have any interest in doing something like this to your MINI? $25k seems pretty reasonable for this kind of conversion to us. What say you?

So let us set the stage. On one side we have a lightly specced and well modded 2006 MCS. On the other we have a loaded 2007 MCS with the JCW suspension, engine kit and aerokit. Both have identical wheels and tires and of course the gorgeous Astro Black. So enough of the set-up. Let’s step back into the fall of 2007…

(Originally posted November 28th 2007) We’ve done several R53/R56 comparisons over the past year but one thing we’ve never done is tested two (almost) identically equipped MINIs back to back. Along with that, we’ve never had the right opportunity to equally assess both cars over the right roads and in the right conditions. And while MotoringFile has been the host of multiple articles comparing the two cars, I always felt they missed a little something without back to back drives. This comparison was to be different. We’d be focusing on driving the cars rather than talking about styling, price and all the other hotly contested debates that we’ve hosted on these pages previously.

So the plan was hatched; we’d drive from Chicago to Kalamazoo Michigan with a detour to the Indiana Lakefront. Here we’d find some of the best (and largely unknown) roads in the entire region. Once back on the highway we’d finish with a two hour blast up I94 to Bell’s Brewery, home of one of the most celebrated micro-brewed beers in the US. Along with the two MINIs being tested would be another R53 (’03 vintage) and a chase car in the form of a Porsche 911 Turbo (996).

But why travel two hours to buy a case of beer and bring it back? About a year ago the distributor of Bell’s in Illinois sold the rights to distributor that the Bell’s management found rather unsavory. Instead of dealing with this new company, Bells decided to simply pull out of Illinois and the entire Chicago market. But as a tip of the cap to it’s Chicago clientele, Bell’s decided to offer a discount to anyone purchasing beer at the brewery with an Illinois driver’s license. Thus the 2007 Bells Beer Run (aka East bound and Up) was born.

Now onto the cars. Our goal was to test two cars that were seemingly equal in performance. So we needed one of the last R53s made and it had to have all of the popular modifications that have become commonplace with MINI enthusiasts. Thus our 2006 R53 test car came equipped with the following:

• Astro Black on Astro Black
• Miltek Exhaust
• Webb Motorsport Intake
• Webb 15% Reduction Pulley
• 18″ 16lbs OZ Ultraleggera Wheels
• JCW Steering Wheel
• JCW Brakes
• w/some of the toe “dialed out” by a local garage (the owner was adamant it makes a difference with turn-in)

Power = 185hp +
Torque = more than stock…

This particular R53 was one of the last made and it was is excellent condition with fairly low miles.

With the R56 we wanted a similar wheel/tire combination and modifications that upped the power in a similar fashion. Luckily I just happened to have the perfect car… sitting in my garage. On paper my 2007 MCS matched up particularly well with our R53 test car due to the newly released dealer installed JCW Kit. Here are the full specs:

• Astro Black on Astro Black
• JCW “Stage I” Engine Kit (Exhaust/Intake/ECU)
• JCW Suspension Kit
• 18″ 16lbs OZ Ultraleggera Wheels
• JCW Steering Wheel
• JCW Pads (other brake components are identical to JCW brake kit on the R53)

Power = 189hp (192bhp)
Torque = 200ft lbs

We started out from Chicago on the newly re-opened Dan Ryan expressway. Immediately it was obvious that the modded R53 had a ton of power in the mid range and top-end. While the R56 could hold it’s own, it certainly wasn’t dramatically faster. And the sound of the R53 from behind was fantastic. Just a hint of Supercharger whine and the growl of the Miltek exhaust gave the car one hell of a presence.

In contrast the R56 JCW MCS had a less complex note to it but was (surprisingly) equal in aggressiveness if heard from outside the car. Driving behind the JCW R56 you’re immediately struck by the difference. The JCW kit adds a note that is deeper than on the R53 even with the Miltek. The exhaust itself was also louder both in and outside the cabin on the highway. Under cruising speeds we found it fairly subdued (it didn’t drone as some aftermarket exhausts do), but move the pedal at all and sound returns with a vengeance.

Having owned basically an identical car to the R53 we tested, I can vouch for its quickness. Whether around a track or on the highway, the car was exceptionally fun. However the highway wasn’t always it’s most ideal setting. Above triple digits, the R53 had a tendency to become a little less planted and lose some critical steering feel. In other words the front end became a little too light for comfortable high-speed cruising.

In contrast to this the JCW MCS (equipped with the JCW aero-kit) felt noticeably more confident than both the R53 or the R56 I tested at 140mph + on the German Autobahn. In fact, above tripple didgets it felt close to the GP in composure. The conclusion one has to reach is that the wind tunnel study done on the optional JCW aero-kit does effectively increase front down-force and provide a better experience at high speeds. While I had heard this said to me by more than one person at MINI over the last year, I had never felt this first hand until now.

As we neared the Michigan border, it was finally time to get off the expressway and head for the shore. There are a few hidden gems around the Beverly Shores area that seemed ideal to put these cars to a proper test. And with the help of the GPS in the 2007, we finally found them.

First up, the JCW R56.

“Insanely fast,” were the first words out of Matt’s mouth as we walked away from the R56 after a short drive. I’ll agree it’s fast, but insanely fast? Yes the R56 has loads of torque. And with the JCW kit it has a bit more power too. With the meat of the power-band starting low and going all the way near redline, acceleration seems to be effortless. But what makes it all the more enjoyable is the engine’s ability to rev so quickly.

The JCW kit not only increases the power noticeably but gone is the annoying flat spot where torque seems to disappear in the stock R56 MCS. In it’s place is a clean upsurge in power that starts when you touch the pedal and doesn’t seem to stop until redline. And there’s now so much torque on tap (officially 200ft lbs) that you don’t really dare burry the throttle for more than a moment unless you’re truly prepared for triple digit speeds. But it’s not that there’s a huge number disparity between the two cars tested here. The difference is really how and when the JCW R56 applies the power. Which is to say with efficient vengeance and all the time.

There’s little question that this particular R56 has the edge in handling due to the JCW Suspension kit installed (also available on the R53/R50). But you can’t really appreciate the difference until you drive the two cars back to back. Where the stock suspension in the R53 felt stiff and ready to play, the R56 seemed to swallow corners with a shrug and a “what’s next?” sort of attitude. It allows for more composed motion through the corners and thus more control at the limit. It also gives you more traction coming out of corners. There’s less of that weight shift to the rear that you’d normally get in a quick FWD car like the MINI. The combination of the JCW suspension, updated DSC (standard on the R56) and the optional limited slip made the R56 feel almost faultless in the corners despite the cold leaf covered pavement.

But enough of the new car. Let’s get behind the always familiar R53 JCW steering wheel and get reacquainted with the car that built the new MINI’s reputation. Immediately it’s painfully obvious that both the throttle response and the power delivery are second rate to the R56 – even more so to the JCW R56 tested here. At best you could describe it as… delayed. At worst it’s alarming after a drive in the R56. But if you wait just a bit, you’re rewarded not only with some impressive pull but with a sound that is completely addicting.

You can hear everything in the R53. The intake, the exhaust and the supercharger whine is startling at first if you’re not used to it. And this is coming from someone who’s owned essentially the same car for two years. You have to love the sound to be able to tolerate it all day. Luckily I do. And then of course there’s the glorious exhaust popping. On this car (equipped with a Miltek exhaust) that back-pressure popping has a classic car feel that is addicting.

Then I turned the wheel and things got better. The R53 has an immediacy in it’s steering that (for better or worse) the R56 can’t quite match. It’s been said before, but I’ll say it again; the R53 simply has more steering feel than the R56. While the ’07 JCW MCS doesn’t ever seem lacking, it just doesn’t quite match the purity that you get from apexing at speed in a 2006 MCS. But somewhat surprisingly the steering is also noticeably lighter than the R56. It lacks the weighted and on-center feel that I begin to take for granted in the R56. While it’s especially evident off of the twisties, it’s also obvious in the tight stuff as well.

One change that I hadn’t noticed as clearly before was the pedal placement. Where on the R56 I could heel-to-toe with just a little flick, on the R53 it was more of a concerted effort. It didn’t take long to adjust to the set-up but it was surprisingly noticeable. However it’s worth keeping in mind that heel-to-toe style shifts are something much easier practiced in the R56 due to it’s ability to rev quickly. The R53 (with it’s supercharger all the baggage that comes with it) seems to rev at glacial speeds in comparison. Because of this, the naturally aspirated R50 Cooper (not tested here) was always quicker to rev.

Beverley Shores is one of my favorite areas in Northern Indiana. It’s located on Lake Michigan on dunes that centuries ago became overcome by forest. For enthusiasts that means two things; elevation changes and corners. For everyone else it means a gorgeous lake-shore with Lord of the Rings style forests. Due to this, it’s also the location that was used to display the famed “World’s Fair Houses” from the 1933 Chicago World’s fair. The homes were built in Chicago by a handful of the most well known architects of the day and once the fair was completed, disassembled and shipped (via boat) across the lake to Beverly Shores.

Alas the years were not kind to the houses. Several were taken by the lake during storms and the others simply fell into dis-repair. Thankfully the state of Indiana stepped in last year and the remaining homes are being refurbished and/or rebuilt to the original specifications by individual owners. So before leaving the area a stop had to be made to pay our respects to the seemingly unbridled enthusiasm that these homes represented 75 years ago. And who doesn’t want to see the first electric garage doors?

As we headed back onto the highway I was almost in disbelief. The extent to which the cars were different shocked both of us. I had driven the two back to back before, but never with so little time in between and through such demanding roads.

There was little question that it was the R53 that had the edge in steering feel and that its turn-in was quicker. While the R56′s on-center feel and better weight made it feel a little more grown-up, it was still eager to play. But it felt like it lacked the last 15% of feel that made the R53 so pure.

But it was the power of the new “Prince” engine and the smoothness of the new transmission that stood out in my mind as the huge differentiators. The R56 was just plainly faster on every facet of the test. Once more, while it lacked some of the R53s steering feel and immediacy, there was also little question that the JCW suspension gave the car inspiring grip and control in the corners.

And with that, we were back on the highway. With three Valentine One’s in the group, we made pretty good time. Although I got the distinct feeling that the 911 Turbo in the group was just toying with us staying back in the pack. Perhaps he knew, if anyone was getting a ticket (and potentially jail-time), it would be the guy with the word “Turbo” on the back of this car.

After another hour or so we finally made it to Bells Brewery. We saddled up to the bar and ordered a pint (just one) and some lunch. And that’s where the debate started. Or not. As it turned out, Matt and I pretty much agreed from the first words out of our mouths. There wasn’t much mystery about it. Sure the debate gets cloudy when talking about things like styling preferences but discussion on performance was pretty cut and dry.

Once we got packed up and said our goodbyes to all that is Kalamazoo, we headed back out onto I94. One hour and 45 minutes later we were in Chicago. I won’t go into how this was possible but I can tell you it even included an unscheduled detour through the wonderful metropolis of Gary Indiana.

As we were heading into Chicago I reflecting on how different the two cars are. The power and speed of the R56 had always been masked due to it’s smoothness. Then there’s the R53′s lighter steering and inferior on-center weighting that didn’t seem all that bad when I owned one. And of course the wonderful immediacy of the turn in with the R53, something the R56 can’t match.

Then it hit me. The R56 is a product purely designed and engineered by BMW. Even the engine is 100% BMW engineered. It truly is the better car of the two, no question. The R53 on the other hand is a product of, well basically an unhappy marriage. It was designed and engineered by BMW and Rover outcasts (talented as they may have been) as the BMW Group was going through one of the worst periods in it’s history with the Rover losing millions daily. And yet it turned out to be an exceptional, capable car with (above all) loads of personality. Part great people and quite possibly part luck, the R53 (R50 and R52 included) will forever be remembered as special cars for resurrecting a brand the right way. But today, with these two cars, it’s second best.

And then, as I was turning off the highway I heard something in the JCW R56. A rattle, just in-front of the sunroof. 4500 miles and this was the first signs of imperfection. Maybe these cars aren’t all that different?

This comes to us from White Roof Radio co-host and MotoringFile contributor, Todd Pearson.

In 2006, MINI announced they would be producing a performance-oriented special edition model that would be lighter weight and limited in quantity worldwide. As we all know, that edition was dubbed the MINI Cooper S John Cooper Works GP edition. Two thousand individually numbered GPs were produced with 415 sold in the US. I wasn’t immediately smitten when the GP was announced but the car grew on me so much that I put a deposit down and paid extra to take part in a special delivery of the very first GPs delivered during the first MINI Takes The States. The special delivery took place at Laguna Seca during the kick-off to the Monterey Historics in 2006. Needless to say, as soon as I laid eyes on the Thunder Blue Metallic paint, carbon fiber wing and unique aero kit on the GP, I was in love with this car.

As many know, I was so in love with the GP that a couple years later I bought a second one when it showed up at my local dealer. The car is that great. After almost a year with two GPs, I’ve made the tough decision to sell that first GP. You read that correctly. At the risk of sounding self-serving, I’m writing about it here because it’s a rare car with a great history and, while a GP shows up for sale now and then, it’s nice to be able to let the MINI enthusiast community know about a great car like this when it becomes available. So for the next week, you can bid on GP #0083 by clicking on over to eBay. Not to worry, I keeping the second GP and will stay a MINI owner and enthusiast for a very long time. It’s just time for someone else to enjoy owning this truly great MINI.

This story comes to us from MotoringFile contributor Brendan.

I met TonyB two years ago through North American Motoring and we’ve kept in touch sporadically since then. I bought my current suspension from him and a few other bits and bobs. A few Sundays ago, I made my way up the windy California backroad towards his house to talk to him about his car. In particular, I wanted to know more about weight saving techniques.

Tony’s house is at the top of a long, steep driveway. He does all his work on the least inclined section of the driveway as he has no garage. Every time I’ve seen his car taken apart it’s been out in the open, on ramps or bits of wood and cinderblock. Two weeks prior, the entire front subframe was on the ground. He was replacing the tie rod ends and the belt and tensioner. The day I interviewed him for this story, the subframe was back in place with the front end in what’s known as ‘service mode’ — the front bumper and bumper carrier off the car.

“I just finished installing the crush tubes here.” He motioned towards two slightly protruding black bits of metal on either side of the radiator.

The tie rod end procedure took him a little longer than planned because one of the parts went missing overnight. “We’ve got a bunch of raccoons around here. They sometimes take shit and you never see it again.”

Tony’s been in the MINI community for a while now. He bought his car new in 2003 and hit the forums hard. In the process, he became a sort of a mod pioneer. He’s the first to have a straight-back exhaust on an R53, and perhaps the first to remove his rear seats. He also partnered up with M7 Tuning to develop the DFIC, a replacement intercooler which channels air directly through the cores to exchange heat much more efficiently. His initials are on the side of each intercooler M7 sells.

As he reattached the tie rods to the car, we started to talk about his philosophy on weight saving. He told me there are three types of weight saving:

There are some issues with changing the car’s weight substantially without proper planning, however. “If you’re serious about stripping out weight then you need to invest in a coilover suspension. That way you can have your car corner balanced in order to maintain front to back balance. It’s much harder to take substantial weight from the front of the car compared to the back so it’s something to keep in mind. I’m working on relocating the power steering pump in the future in order to shift weight around.”

We went through his car looking at exactly what he’s done to cut weight. Rear seat delete, lightweight wheels with non run flat tires, stud conversion, straight exhaust, front and back wiper delete, Braille lightweight battery, hollow rear sway bar. There are too many mods to do justice to here.

“The forte of this car is nimbleness. They don’t have big V8s. Colin Chapman; I think he was the founder of Lotus, had a philosophy. ‘Simplify and add lightness’.”

I asked him about his car’s target weight. “Well, right now it’s around 2,424 pounds. I’ll be getting rid of the AC condenser and a few other things…” He took half a minute to do some quick mental math. “I can probably take another 75 pounds off the car just as is. That’s without replacing the rear trailing arms with the R56 aluminum ones. You hear about Miata guys taking paint thinner to their cars to lose more weight. But I don’t want my car to look like a track car inside or out, you know what I mean?”

I decided I had spent enough time chatting and got ready to hit the road. Tony tells me he thinks he’s got about two more hours before the car’s back together. As I wrapped up a few loose ends, he spied something in-between the passenger side strut tower and the engine.

“I think there’s a chipmunk or a rat living back here,” he said as he extracted a few gnawed-on acorn shells. “These can also add weight.”

Post photo courtesy of Flickr user AMcUK.

Tuesday the US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration opened an investigation into potential power steering problems of the 2004-2005 MINI. The site lists this as involving MINI “Coopers” but we believe this could likely include both the Cooper and the Cooper S given that the agency says that this could involve about 80,000 vehicles.

If the power steering should go out the effort needed to turn the steering wheel (mostly at low speeds) would increase dramatically.

At this point MINI claims it has no confirmation on any accidents that may have been caused the issue. We’ll have more shortly.

The stock MINI out of the box has a remarkable stiff chassis. But, that’s not going to stop aftermarket accessory makers from trying to make an even more rigid car. That’s where M7 Tuning has worked their magic. Gabe previously reviewed the understrut system by M7 here on MF, and so this is my review of their rear chassis brace.

For you suspension geeks out there, I thought I should establish where I’m coming from on my 2006 R50. I have a Sport Suspension Plus set of springs and shocks from an early 2003 MCS (before the suspension was softened), front fixed camber plates and a SS+ rear sway bar. It’s stiff and a whole lot of fun. Turn-in is quick and I can induce a smidgen of oversteer either by lifting off the throttle and trail braking. No other FWD car I’ve driven is as responsive.

The rear suspension on the MINI is surprisingly sophisticated for a car of its size. The multi-link setup still sets the MINI apart from other cars in its class like the Nuova Fiat 500 (torsion spring rear axle) and the VW Polo (semi-independent). The problem is that there is no good place to brace the rear of the car in order to eliminate flex. But, thinking outside the box, M7′s solution is a brace which goes in between the two latches for the rear seats.

Unpacking the parts and pieces was a fairly standard procedure. Everything arrived in bubble wrap, nuts and bolts were packaged in a compartmentalized plastic baggie. M7 is even kind enough to include two allen wrenches to aid installation. Not included were a 10 mm wrench, a 13 mm socket and paper instructions.

The build quality of the parts was impressive. The most impressive piece was the top bar; a hollow black anodized aluminum bar with specially manufactured ends which bolt to the chassis. It’s too bad that this product likely won’t be seen by most passengers because it’s really nice. The engineering was to impressive, tight standards and everything fit together with very little tolerance. M7 says that this is ‘pre-tensioning’ and aids the overall effectiveness of the system. The side pieces attach to the bottom of the chassis, utilizing hooks normally used for strapping down cargo. One cross beam keeps these side bars stiff at the bottom.

Installation took me about 45 minutes at a careful pace. When it’s assembled it becomes even more apparent how much homework M7 did on this product. Although the top bar bolts on behind the rear seats, the RCB does not affect their operation one iota.

And so, I took to the streets. Driving up one of my favorite local roads immediately made the brace’s effect known to me. The rear end of the car feels like it’s one solid piece, and I could feel the vehicle rotate around me more in turns. It’s a subtle trait that doesn’t disrupt day-to-day driving and is only of use in more spirited driving situations.

My only qualm with the product is the fact that the shape the braces create is a rectangle, one of the least rigid geometric shapes. This is because it’s all too easy for a rectangle to be shifted into a parallelogram, diminishing the absorption of force from its corners. And given that M7 was likely trying to strike a compromise between functionality of the brace and cargo space, I can understand which shape they chose for the brace. However, there is a pretty good chunk of passthrough cargo space which is eaten up by the RCB even with this compromise. I would prefer to see the next iteration of this design consist of two bars crossing (creating an ‘x’) attached to the top brace for an even more hardcore level of chassis stiffening.

MotoringFile Rating: 4 (out of five)

Where to Buy: The M7 Rear Chassis Brace is available from M7 Tuning for $279 plus shipping. I tested the R50/53 version, but there is also a version available for the R56.

With this article we are introducing our latest MotoringFile contributor Brendan Nystedt. Brendan has been a MINI enthusiast for quite a few years and currently owns a 2006 MINI Cooper (R50). Look for more from Brendan – especially on the topics of modifications and the R50/R53.

One of the greatest things about owning a MINI is the variety of ways to make the car yours.  Numerous vendors offer all sorts of add-ons from full chrome interior kits to skid plates to rear wiper delete kits. These five mods are my favourite mods which didn’t cost me very much and have added even more enjoyment to my 2006 MINI Cooper.

1. Front Cabrio Braces.

Originally developed for the R52 (first-gen Convertible), these braces fit between the lower front frame and the strut towers.  The engineers at MINI deemed these a necessary addition to the Convertibles due to the lack of a roof.   Now, they can be added to your MINI so you can take advantage of the additional structural enhancement.  They are cheaper than buying a full-blown front strut brace and have a stealthy, stock-like appearance.  Because the cabrio braces are a stock part, they may be ordered through your BMW parts counter or through various discount BMW parts houses on the internet (mention MotoringFile for a discount at sponsoring dealers).  Additionally, for those willing to pay a bit more, Way Motor Works offers them powdercoated in red or blue.  Out the door for a stock set I paid around $48 including shipping.  That gets you 2 braces and 8 torx-headed bolts with which to attach the braces.  Count on about 45 minutes to install.  It can be very tricky getting the bottom bolts lined up properly.

Caveat Emptor: Because these were developed for the cabrio, the mounting holes were added in the chassis to coincide with the Euro release of the drop-top MINI in 2004.  Cars built from approximately 2002 to early 2004 likely do not have the threaded holes with which to mount the braces.  Be sure to check for the tell-tale black plugs where the bolts thread into.  If you’re hellbent on installing the braces, early MINI owners have drilled holes and used bolts, nutserts and one even welded them his to his car.  Check around on North American Motoring and do your homework before attempting such an installation.

Where to purchase: Your local BMW Parts counter, Sponsoring dealers (Morristown, MINI of Manhattan, Otto’s MINI), Way Motor Works.

2. FES Auto-Up Circuit.

Picture courtesy of FES Auto

Sold by MINI patron saint Matt Richter, FES offers this time-tested design based off the original Ian Cull Auto-Up circuit.  What this device does is add auto-up windows to your MINI.  This means no more holding the toggles up while trying to shift.  Instead, a quick double click up on the toggles sends the windows closing of their own volition.  But, as they used to say, that’s not all.  The Auto-Up Circuit also includes a programmable feature called Track-Mode DSC.  This feature automatically disables DSC when the car is started.  FES advises that this only be used on a race track but I know of at least one speed demon who drives his MINI without DSC most of the time in order to avoid the dreaded electronic nanny.  On the latest version, there’s even more features than the version that I have.  The Auto-Up Circuit costs $50 and is available on FES Auto’s website.  The instructions are included and require a few torx drivers and some muscle to remove the knee bolster panel underneath the steering wheel.  Which leads me to my next mod.

Where to buy: FES Auto

3. Euro Parcel Shelf.

Courtesy of Moss Mini

Back when men were real men, women were real women and MINI drivers all waved at each other, BMW used to allow orders of this excellent part.  It’s a replacement for the flat, textured piece of plastic that goes underneath the steering wheel.  It gives the driver a great place to stick parking tickets and half-eaten crullers.  Because of the fact that the part isn’t Department of Transportation approved for US consumption, BMW no longer sells it on this side of the pond.  But fortunately, one company still stocks the piece and sells it– Moss Mini.  They charge $130 for the shelf and a rubberized mat which goes on top of the shelf.  A good one-two combo of mods would be to install the FES Auto-Up Circuit at the same time as installing the parcel shelf.  It could save the intrepid modder from having to remove the stock knee bolster twice.

Where to purchase: Moss Mini

4. CG Lock.

Taking corners quickly is just about a MINI’s favourite activity.  But, the problem is that the driver often will slide around in his or her seat, losing touch with what’s going on while trying to defeat the forces of physics.  This device lets the driver cinch down the lap belt, effectively pinning down the hips to the seat bottom.  The manufacturer mentions that their product offers most of the effective restraint of a full racing harness.  This is a great mod for those thinking about getting a race harness in their MINI.  Race harnesses just aren’t safe in street cars because the driver is pinned down in the event of a roll-over accident.  Race harnesses are meant to be paired with a roll cage, keeping the roof of a car from collapsing if it goes ass over teakettle.  But, in a street car the harness locks the driver’s torso into the seat so it cannot move to the side if the pillars collapse, crushing the driver.  CG Lock allows performance-minded drivers on road and racetrack an alternative to a harness while enabling clear communication between your backside and the road.  The CG Lock is available at many Pep Boys locations nationwide as well as direct from their website.  Mine set me back around $60.  Expect to pay between $40 and $60.

Where to purchase: Pep Boys, Helix Minisports

5. Aftermarket Air Filter

Courtesy of Outmotoring.com

Even if you’re not concerned about the performance of your MINI this is a great mod.  I bought a K&N filter as my first modification to my car.  BMW designed the MINI to use disposable, paper element filters which are not only wasteful but also lacking in the efficiency department.  By buying a cotton or foam filter you’re making an investment for the lifetime of the car.  In fact, the K&N filters have a million mile warranty and are washable.  K&N quotes horsepower gain but I feel the best reason to buy this filter is because you can use it again and again.  Make sure you order the right part for your particular model year and transmission.  Expect to pay around $50.  Also, in order to clean the filter you’ll need to spend another $15 on the cleaning kit which is good for many filter cleanings.  Be sure to take a minute to feel warm and fuzzy that they’re still (for the most part) made in the USA.

Where to purchase: Local chain auto parts stores, Outmotoring.com

I’ve found in my ownership of a MINI that some mods come with luck.  My best advise to the modder on a budget is to troll your local craigslist relentlessly.  If you’re not lucky enough to live in a place with many MINI owners, join a forum (the best for the US being North American Motoring) and start checking the marketplace section.  Many of the parts on my car were purchased from other MINI owners as take offs from their cars (suspension, sway bar, toggle switches, stainless exhaust).  You never know what kind of great deals and eccentric parts and pieces you may come across.  Make friends, mod your car, learn new and interesting things.  That’s what motoring is all about.

Yesterday BMW won the 24 Hours of the Nurburgring in a dramatic performance. How about MINI? Well there was the MINI Challenge race and then of course the MINI E doing a lap around the ‘Ring. But what about the actual 24 Hours of Nurburgring? There were a handful of MINIs at the race but unfortunately for the R53 above, only one immortalized on youtube the morning after.

BMW has a history of producing enormous amounts of parts and sitting them on shelves for many years. However when it comes to accessories long-term availability is something less than a certain thing. And when it comes to a new brand and a new sub-brand within it, you can imagine BMW was relatively safe with their production numbers. This all means that those R50/R53 JCW parts that you’ve been lusting after since 2005 have quickly dwindling inventories and could be gone within the year. Perhaps the most telling example is the full leather JCW steering wheel. According to our sources there are only two new examples left in the US parts system (dealers or warehouse). We’re told that invetories aren’t much (if any) better in Europe either. The leather/alcantara version (see our review here) is also in short supply but we’re told is in slightly better shape.

Other than the steering wheel we’ve also been warned that the R50 JCW aero kit (and to a lesser degree the R53′s) has dwindling numbers and could be gone soon as well.

Perhaps the most sad personally is the leather dash that we lavishly heaped praise on a few years ago. Most of those unique stitching color examples are gone and the black with contrasting red leather we reviewed is very low in numbers as well.

The worst part? MINI has no plans to produce any of these accessories for the R50/R53 again. They will simply become sought after collectors items on the best examples of first generation New MINIs.

Related:

+ MF Review: JCW Alcantara Steering Wheel (R53) / MotoringFile

+ MF Review: JCW Leather Dash / MotoringFile

One of the most viewed parts of our sites has to be the R50/R53 buyers guide we launched back in 2008. And while we felt it was a good introduction to the cars for those looking to buy used, we new it would need to be updated periodically. Our latest updates have focused around the additional oil leak issues that have cropped up over the last year or so.

But we also need you. We’d like to hear what issues you’re having with your R50 or R53 so we can help build out our buyers guide even further. Sound off in the comments section below.

+ R50/R53 Buyers Guide / MotoringFile

Over the past couple of years a very serious issue has reared its head in many a 2001-2006 MINIs (aka the R50/R53/R52). The problem stems from oil seals or gaskets going bad (usually towards the front of the motor) and allowing oil to leak from the reservoir. If unchecked this could result in oil starvation and engine detonation.

I own an R50/R52/R53, What Should I Do?

For starters go check your oil… now. If it’s not low, make a mental note of the date (or better yet write it down) and be sure to check it again once a week (to see how to do this, you can watch DB’s demonstration below). If your oil is low head down to your MINI dealer and pick-up some of that unique BMW/MINI Castrol synthetic oil. And remember, once your car is older, it’s generally not wise to change oil from one brand to another. Now once your levels are where they need to be, look under the front of your car towards the front of the engine. If you see obvious signs of oil on the bottom of the engine (or even on the ground) you’ve got a problem. Schedule an appointment at your MINI dealer or local independent MINI shop.

The real problem

For this we turn to an expert: Chad Miller, owner of the MINI only shop Detroit Tuned.

I see several leaks out of the early cars. The first one that leaks on all cars is the crank sensor. It has an o-ring on it and shrinks after it get hot after 30K and it allows oil pass it only when the car is running. It leaks down the front of the block and collects lots of dirt that comes through the radiator.  It will continue down the front of the motor to the pan and blow off when driving. It never drips as it is well above the oil level when the car is parked at any angle. The fix for it is to clean it up, pull it out, RTV it, Put it back in. To do this you HAVE to pull the front of the car off. 

The second (and biggest) place I am seeing oil leak issues is the crank seal/gasket. This seal dries up and will also work its way out and allow oil to be pumped out as its right at the oil pump behind the crank damper. It’s the same on cooper or cooper S and it’s an easy fix once you pull the crank pulley. When this seal goes it will cover the front cover and the oil pan gasket and will make it look like the pan gasket is going. Sometimes it’s good to replace this seal first as it is easy and cheap before you pull the pan and replace that one. The seal is $13.48 the next one is the oil pan gasket. It’s a big job and very messy. (ED: This seems to be what most problems are that we’re hearing about.)

You also have to pull the front end of to pull the air compressor. The gasket is a MINI only part, and lists for $36.71. There are no aftermarket parts for it. I always seal up the crank sensor when doing this job as you already have the front end off, even if the leak is not bad or not at all. I can almost guarantee that, at some point, it will start leaking. 

I also see the oil cooler seals on the cooper S go. They get really hot and dry up and get hard. It starts as a drip, and can drip on the driveway. They can also just go and pump all the oil out of the motor. Again a very cheap part at $3.80 each (you need 2) and it’s a special square o-ring that you’re not going to just pick up anywhere. It’ll take about an hour to install and requires removing the oil filter to stop the drain of oil in to your work area. You can get to it through the drivers wheel well so it’s an easy install.

So there you have it. The majority of issues relate to the crank seal but there are a couple other that could also produce oil leaks. As Chad mentions, the parts aren’t pricey. However it’s the labor that gets the old parts off and the new parts on that is. In total it should run you around $800 at most MINI dealers. Independent shops should be a little cheaper.

As always if you’ve had any experience with the problem and the fix let us know. This is a growing problem in the R50/R52/R53 MINI world and will only get worse in the years ahead. We can only assume multiple aftermarkets solutions will be available soon and that MINI may even redesign the OEM part since the failure seems to be so widespread.

This week’s Ask MF comes courtesy of Lisa:

I want to purchase a roof rack for my 2005 Mini Cooper.  Please point me in the right direction.  Should I buy Thule, Yakima, or other?  Which is best/ easiest to work with?  Which foot  packs, etc do I need?  I want to haul kayaks and bikes.  I’m sorry for all the questions but I keep getting different answers from different websites and distributors.  Thanks for any help that you can give me.

We’ve had experience with Yakima and the OEM rack but would like to throw this out o our readers. Let’s hear it MINI owners, sound of below…

Related:

+ MF Quick Reivew: Yakima Rack / MotoringFile

This should be available at any MINI dealer in the US (via special order).

[ Rear Plate PDC ] Official MINI PDF

Related:

[ Official Rear Parking Distance Retrolfit ] MotoringFile

Automobile Magazine has a great piece in this month’s magazine that details 12 of it’s favorite used car deals. But why is it great? Ok it may have something to do with the website they used as a source for the article. Here’s an excerpt:

The current version of the new Mini is bigger, faster, more refined, and better engineered than its predecessor. But it was the original car, introduced in the States in 2002, that inspired a grassroots eruption of Mini mania, and its smiley-face charisma and go-kart performance promise to make it an enduring cult hero. “It will be a classic,” says Gabriel Bridger, founder of MotoringFile.com, one of the country’s most authoritative Mini Web sites. “It brought sportiness and efficiency to the masses, and it’s authentic in a way that modern cars aren’t. It will be one of the last mass-produced cars to have a vintage-car feel.”

The interview that we did for the article was thorough and the author (Preston Lerner) was able to create a concise four paragraph piece that hit most of the high points of the R50/R53 ownership.

+ 12 Used All-Stars / Automobile

Seven years ago on March 22nd 2002 the first MINI dealers in the US opened their doors. While this may be US specific I think the enthusiasm of that time translates well to any market and any language. Personally I vividly remember showing up at the local MINI dealer that morning in an effort to get to know the Cooper and Cooper S demos fresh off the truck. Naturally I was totally floored by how the car felt and I immediately put the wheels in motion for my initial MINI purchase. You can get a sense of that excitement in my first short review of the car as posted on March 22nd 2002 on the web:

First off I was surprised at how capable and flat out fun the base Cooper is. It’s almost fun enough to forget about the S entirely. Especially considering the short lead-time (ordering an S will set the purchase back to June). The Cooper’s main weakness in my mind is the 45-70 acceleration. You must be “involved” with the transmission to get to 70 quickly. But that’s part of the fun as well. The Cooper I drove had the 16s and was definitely more harsh than my BMW 325ci with 17s. But keep in mind it wasn’t rough. It also didn’t have the sport seats causing me to have to literally hang onto the wheel while cornering.

The S was quite a nice package. However it didn’t “feel” as quick as I had expected off the line. Because of the smoothness of the power it felt a bit laid back where I would have expected otherwise. The immediacy steering in both cars put my 325ci to shame however. When I got back into it after both drives it felt too isolated and numb in comparison. Overall I was really surprised at the lack of difference between the MC and the MCS below 30 mph.

The thing that hits you when you see the MINI for the first time on the road is it’s presence. It’s such a strange thing for such a small car to have so much presence.

We want to hear your stories of the those first MINI drives and sightings. Were you on hand for the launch seven years ago? If not what was your first MINI experience like? Sound off below but please – no bashing.

This week’s Ask MF comes from Demian:

I wanted to let you know that your website is a great one! I daily check for updates and info. In regards to used minis, I am looking for a used 2005 and later model. Could you recommend an adequate price range for these models? Any website recommendations for used minis?

Assuming you’re looking for an R50/R53 (they were made from 2001 through 2006 worldwide) it’s really hard to say what prices to expect or even what currency you’re talking about. However if you’re located in the US we’d recommend starting your search in the normal used car places like Cars.com and Autotrader.com. While some forums have a decent selection you need to be aware that some of the cars offered are forum based sites can be heavily modified. Obviously this is not always the best thing for used car longevity. Unless of course you don’t mind that.

But enough of our suggestions. Let’s hear from MF readers. Where would you look? What would you expect to pay for a 2005 – 2006 MC and MCS?

We’re reposting this Ask MF originally from last year due to a number of similar questions we’ve gotten over the last few weeks.

This week’s “Ask MotoringFile” comes from Dave M and is quickly becoming a very common question:

I have a 2008 MCS on order and am relatively new to the MINI world. I couldn’t help but notice everyone using these code names for different models of MINIs. What does it all mean?

MINI models follow a similar system to the (seemingly ancient) BMW model internal naming convention. Since we often talk about different models (sometimes in the same story, paragraph or even sentence), using the internal model code-names is often the easiest way to quickly identify what model of MINI we’re referring to.

The first generation of BMW MINI’s started with the R50 which was meant to be the coupe version of the car. However once that model number was established BMW decided to produced a higher power version called the Cooper S. Because the development work was started later it was given a different code-name – the R53. The R52 was actually conceived before the Cooper S and thus has the code-name R52. And for those wondering, the R51 was a concept that never made it past the conception stages.

With the second generation MINI, BMW had things planned out a bit better. That meant the entire range of 2nd generation coupes would use the R56 code and the convertibles R57. The Clubman was designated R55 since initial work had started on the concept before the R56.

So why the big gap between the R57 and the new R60 SUV MINI? We’ve been told that is simply due to several concepts which have either been shelved or delayed.

If you ever need a quick reminder we have the cheat-sheet (seen below) on the lower left of every MotoringFile page. Each code-name links to the subsequent MotoringFile section for each car. A handy way to see all posts referring to individual models.

1st Gen MINI

• R50: One & MC Coupe
• R52: All 1st Gen MINI Convt.
• R53: MCS Coupe

2nd Gen MINI

• R55: Clubman
• R56: One/MC/MCS Coupe
• R57: One/MC/MCS Convt.
• R60: MINI SUV

BMW’s customer service told Heather this wasn’t a common fault, which is surprising because we’ve heard from dozens of other Mini owners who’ve told us they’ve had exactly the same problem, and have had to fork out anything up to £800 for the repair.

Not a common fault? Show of hands to those of you that have had power steering problems. As it turns out, we are not alone.

Matt Pike is an independent Mini mechanic, and a supplier of spare parts. He says he can barely keep up with demand for replacement power steering pumps: “At least 60 per cent of our regular customers have all had pumps changed. And we’re getting at least two calls a day from people after power steering pumps because they’re such a big failure. I’d say it’s the most common problem we have with the Minis.”

This is something that already happened to me and I think the unit I have installed now is also going bad. I also think I’m lucky in that it didn’t fail until almost 180K miles. I know many R53 owners who have had the power steering go out shortly after the warranty expires.

If you are in the market for an R50 or R53, take a minute to check out the R50/R53 Buyers Guide. Many of the issues that affected the first generation MINIs, including power steering, are listed here.

[ MINI Power Steering Failures ] BBC.co.uk