With the 2005 and 2006 MINIs so hard to pass up, quite a few owners are considering a trade up. In fact, since selling my MINI a few weeks back, I’ve had quite a few folks write to ask about some of the techniques used to move the car so quickly. While I’d like to take credit for some brilliant ad copy or slick marketing techniques, I have to admit that the quick sale was probably due to nothing more than following few common sense rules that I’ve picked up over the years.
So with that in mind, here’s a quick list of tips on selling a MINI yourself and getting the most money out of it:
-
Use a nationally based car sales website and make sure to opt for at least the mid-level ad. I used Cars.com and went with their “enhanced” ad. The great thing about this level was that it allowed three photos and free renewals until the car was sold. Also a popular nationally based website allows MINI starved folks from the western part of the US a chance to check out your car. In the days after my car was sold I got three calls all from people located in California.
-
Create a photo website with tons of detailed pics and place the url within your ad. While this may seem like overkill, it’s simply more information for a potential buyer to sink their teeth into. Remember, they’re looking for as much information (beyond the ad copy) as they can get. If you’re not particularly web-saavy I’d recommend using a service like Flickr to create a site.
-
Price your car very competitively (in relation to the Bluebook value and what else is out there in the market) but be fairly firm once people inquire. This seems to get lots of people “in the door” so to speak and wanting to know more about the car. Of course the idea if is, once they see and/or drive the MINI they’ll love it. It’s also very important to familiarize yourself with prices for used MINIs in your area – specifically what dealers are charging for them. You can find out your car’s value at kbb.com.
-
Listed every detail, every accessory, and every feature that your MINI has. Be as complete as is possible with the space you have. Make sure that let people know you’ve enjoyed the car!
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Stay away from MINI saturated online marketplaces like MINI2 or NAM – especially as your only listing. They’re both great sites but the competition level is very high in terms of price vs features on their marketplaces. And while you may be on both sites, a perspective used MINI buyer may not.
-
Be as upfront as possible about the condition of the car. Don’t spare any detail about visible nicks or dents. If the buyer wants the car, they’ll almost always look past minor cosmetic issues. This also helps to build a mutual trust, something that always helps private party sales move along smoothly.
-
Be prepared to be disappointed in some way with the transaction (ie – be flexible). While you may think your MINI should command top Blue Book value, you must be reasonable. And don’t be disappointed if your MINI doesn’t sell in the first few weeks. The right buyer is out there… sometimes it just takes a little while for him/her to find your car.
Okay, that’s my quick list of tips. Let’s hear yours….
<p>My tip is to spread the word among friends, co-workers, family, etc… Let them help spread the word that you are selling your car as they may come in contact with people you otherwise may not through the options listed above. That’s how I sold my old car after placing the order for my MINI.</p>
<p>I put my 2002 Cooper up for sale here in the Bay Area in early January with an add in the SF Chronical. I got two calls and only one guy came to look. He wanted it but I thhen had a change of heart and ordered a MCS which wasn’t coming until May. I kept the car and then put it up for sale in late April with a posting on Craigslist.org. </p>
<p>The Craigslist posting had pictures where as the Chronical listing did not. I got an email from the Craigslist ad within an hour. I showed the car three times in as many days and had several other people wanting to see. I couldn’t keep up. I sold the car to the first guy to come see it. I had at ;east two other people say they wanted it.</p>
<p>Pictures are a great help. It weeds oput a lot of lookie-loos. I keep my cars in mint condition so people were amazed it still looked like new with 44,000 miles. Having the car look it’s absolute best is key.</p>
<p>For pricing, I would do some research on current market values and not just rely on KBB, etc. See what current prices are for your year/make/model/mileage on Cars.com or AutoTrader. KBB pricing may be unrealistic (high or low) compared to what cars are actually selling for in the marketplace.</p>
<p>KBB gives me a value of $4500 for my ’94 Miata with 32k miles, which seems too low to me. NADA prices it at $7200 (high), which seems like a more reasonable (if a little lofty) goal for me as a seller.</p>
<p>Edmunds.com has an excellent “True Market Value” or “TMV” feature to find out what your car is selling for in your area, regardless of bluebook value.</p>
<p>Good point Chris W,</p>
<p>NADA and KBB seem to have a huge discrepancy of up to a few thousand when it comes to the blue book value of your vehicle. When I sell my current car, I think I’ll end up pricing it somewhere between the two values.</p>
<p>I think the most important thing you can do when pricing your car is seeing what else is out there in your area. Basically you need to cross-shop like a potential buyer might.</p>
<p>Hi Gabe. Thanks for the great work. This has nothing to do with the above but thought this might be a good chance to hit you for (more) advice.</p>
<p>In my quest for additional HP for my 2005 MCS/JCW in saw on e-bay a couple of performance air filters that claimed up to a 13HP increase for about $35! I sent one of the sellers a question and the reply was “yes, this is possible in a supercharged car”.</p>
<p>I also saw a chip that claims a 20 HP increase for about $50.00.</p>
<p>In all the discussion about mods how come neither of these options ever came up? I’m not a gear head so I’m out of my league in many of these topics but these look like no brainers as an airfilter can’t affect the warranty and the chip can always be switched back when in doubt.</p>
<p>I’m interested in your and everyone else’s opinion. Thanks again.</p>
<p>Greg – I think a question like this would be more successful on either another, more topic related story or on a forum site like <a rel="nofollow" href="northamericanmotoring.com/">North American Motoring</a> or <a rel="nofollow" href="mini2.com/">MINI2</a>.</p>
<p>I know I’m off topic but it might be awhile before a performance topic came up. So, no thoughts on this? Anybody?</p>
<p>Greg … you get what you pay for in all walks of life, including MINI!</p>
<p>The JCW air intake, including a new filter, is the result of much design and complexity, costing $450 and gives about 6hp. That is a comparison point for you ;)</p>
<p>I listed my Cooper as mentioned above for $500 under the KBB value because of the lack of interest the first time. I realize that I could have asked for more with all the interest the second time.</p>
<p>Three things (beyond Cars.com) helped me sell my 02 MC in two days:</p>
<ol>
<li>I clearly explained in my ad why I was are selling the car. Telling people I was selling the MINI to buy an MCSC seemed to instill a sense of trust in the vehicle and brand with potential buyers.</li>
<li>When I went out on the test drive, I told the buyers absolutely everything I knew about the car. They will seldom get that much information from a used car dealer (especially non-MINI dealerships). It helped seal the deal.</li>
<li>I provided the new owners with some MINI related items I had (old 02 brochure, key ring etc.) This again made the buyer feel special relative to how they’d be treated at a dealership.</li>
</ol>
<p>Ian. Thanks for the life lesson. My inquiry seemed innocent enough but no one cares to discuss it.</p>
<p>Any pithy comments on the chip since my $6000 didn’t buy enough design and complexity to include one of the performance variety?</p>
<p>Just because I overpaid for 6 HP at $450
are you suggesting that nothing less expensive is worthwhile?</p>
<p>What was that posting a while back regarding “shills” for Mini? No need to worry if there are any out there. Mini already has my money for JCW tuning, brakes, and suspension. Stiff price for a warranty.</p>
<p>Greg – this really isn’t the place for this discussion. I’d highly recommend either finding a more appropriate story on MotoringFile to post at or heading over to a forums based MINI site like MINI2 or North American Motoring.</p>
<p>Sad Arthur still hasn’t moved after a print and web ad in Autoweek, web ad in Yahoo autos, 3 ebay auctions, print ads in the SF Chronicle and Bay Area Auto Trader. I’m trying Craigslist now. Despite photos, a detailed explanation of the ’05 spec JCW kit, similar cars advertised at higher prices (one ’04 JCW for $37K!) the ads just haven’t pulled a serious buyer. Lots of people called who wanted to compare it with the MINI they have on order. Lots of people asked, “what’s your lowest price?” as if they hadn’t read the ad, but had no intention of making an offer. I dunno. Maybe I have B.O. or something. Hope something happens soon. I’m scheduled to pick up Sad Arthur II on May 28th. Anybody care to offer a critique?
<a href="http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/72421280.html" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/72421280.html</a></p>
<p>I would take indimini’s suggestion and indicate why you are selling so soon… Indicate you are simply getting an ’05 Mini and indicate why perhaps. Also, you don’t reference mileage in the ad. I would try to answer virtually every question the average buyer would have. For this type of purchase, I do think too much information is a good thing.</p>
<p>My two cents. GOOD LUCK!</p>
<p>Thanks. I’ll put the mileage in. The last line is “Must sell to make room for my new MINI” Is that not clear?</p>
<p>Regarding – The last line is “Must sell to make room for my new MINI” Is that not clear?</p>
<p>I would get nervous if I were buying… Why go from a top of the line ’04 to an ’05? Clarify perhaps… Someone may be concerned it is a lemon, was in an accident, etc?</p>
<p>Just a thought.</p>
<p>OK, I’ll add a line, but I make it clear it’s in perfect condition, never wrecked or dinged. I don’t understand why that would make you nervous. I don’t want to say the real reason I’m upgrading is to get the LSD, because a buyer might want to know what’s wrong with the ’04. The answer of course is nothing. You just can’t retrofit the LSD. Not a real concern to anyone but a nutso go-fast JCW freak. No one else would go to all the trouble of upgrading a car for a $500 option.</p>
<p>First, it is perfectly understandable that someone who owns a JCW-loaded MINI wants to get the LSD. </p>
<p>Second, and more important, you should relax. The guy (and the rest of us) just wants to help. I would not have bought a car from you either!</p>
<p>Whoa… Jorge – I think you mis-read Siddhartha comments. I didn’t take them like that at all.</p>
<p>Sorry about that. I just wanted to point out to watch the form, not just the content.</p>
<p>I’m getting confused by the tone of some of these replies so I’ll just say “Thanks for the help” and drift on outta here . . . :-)</p>
<p>No worries 🙂 </p>
<p>BTW Jerry – I think you’ve put together a good ad. I’d recommend only linking to more photos and metioning the mileage. Other than that I think you’ve got great car that a potential buyer would be lucky to own.</p>
<p>Sidd,</p>
<p>On average, lesser trim levels hold their values better than higher trim levels. I think it’s because buyers willing to pay more for higher trim levels are usually the buyers that are willing to pay the premium for a new model, too.</p>
<p>To sway the sliver of the market that wants a better-than-average model but doesn’t want to pay the time+money premium for new: educate them. Your ad doesn’t explain the relative benefits of the JCW package until halfway through. Someone that’s unfamiliar with the MINI lineup would stop reading shortly after seeing your price.</p>
<p>Try something like this:</p>
<p>Why settle for a typical MINI Cooper? The John Cooper Works package is a factory option that improves the already-impressive performance of the MINI Cooper. It’s not cheap, but JCW-equipped Coopers like this one enjoy 30% more horsepower than even the “normal” supercharged Cooper S. As a factory option, the JCW enjoys full warranty, too! Fewer than X% of all MINIs have this rare and desirable option. (etc.)</p>
<p>See? You gotta explain it to buyers that might not otherwise understand why your MINI costs more. Educate, describe and justify. Good luck!</p>
<p>roderickm</p>
<p>Gabe, please post a link to your archived cars.com ad.</p>
<p>dc – actually I would have already but it’s been taken down for awhile now.</p>
<p>Sidd:
For what my opinion is worth, I think the biggest issue with your ad is the asking price. $28k is the cost of a brand new 05 S with JCW and LSD. Although yours has a few luxury options, bottom line for a performance-oriented buyer is that your car has no LSD, less attractive gear ratios, and 18k miles. I’d say you need to drop your asking price to $25k to get any action. </p>
<p>Unfortunately, my guess is that when the dust settles, between the depreciation on the current car, sales tax, transaction fees, etc. you’ll have spent much more in “upgrading” to a new car with LSD than you would just installing a Quaife (arguably a better unit) in your current car.</p>
<p>If you are either having problems selling your MINI or need to sell it quickly, check out Carmax. </p>
<p>I was selling my Land Rover Freelander a while back, most dealers were going to give me $13,000 trade in for a 2004 with 7,000 miles. I went to Carmax and within 30 minutes, they offered me $20,000. The offer is good for 3 days or 300 miles and they do all the paperwork. </p>
<p>It’s a good place to consider if you don’t like selling your own car.</p>
<p>Fab ideas shared, all… Fine posting, Gabe.</p>
<p>It’s been a year plus, but <em>AutoSpies</em> valued our car to help decide how to price it to move. Superb. They only charge $100 clams. Well worth it. 😉 Really didn’t want to waste time & more ad money, – no fun.</p>
<p>As <strong>Damon</strong> realized above, – asking $500 under KBB-value his 2nd time ’round wasn’t his proper price-point. </p>
<p>Here’s a <a rel="nofollow" href="http://autospies.com/services/index.asp?item=0047">linky</a> if interested.</p>
<p>KBB has never felt close to accurate for us & eBay is there for pricing but the dynamics of that market are finicky.</p>
<p>nrkist,</p>
<p>It’s difficult valuing A JCW car because none of the valuing services list those options. However, I do have my invoice for the 2004 car handy and can tell you it was $29,063 out the door in Chicago, before tax. Add to that $795 for the ’05 upgrade and $400 for 4 new tires and you get $30,258 invested before tax, so I think $28K is a fair place to begin negotiations.</p>
<p>I also have the invoice for my new 2005 car and can tell you it is $33,354. Not even close to $28K. </p>
<p>I think what amazes me most about this whole process is that very few people approach the transaction as a negotiation. Evidently they think the quoted price is cast in stone instead of a starting point, so they don’t even inquire. </p>
<p>On the other hand, I can’t tell you how many people have said, “Well, what’s your lowest price?” Jeez, guy, my price is published. If you think that’s too high, make me an offer and I’ll consider it. To assume that I think my published price is too high (which I don’t) and ask me to lower it without any incentive to do so is not very productive. Maybe they are afraid of paying too much and looking foolish. Well, every day people in the California Bay Area pay anywhere from $2500 to $3500 over list price for their new MINI and STILL are made to wait 6 months for delivery. Now I think THAT’S foolish when you can order a MINI, pay MSRP and take delivery in 6 weeks elsewhere. Plus have the fun of driving it home and maybe breaking it in along the way.</p>
<p>Anyway, I don’t think the price is too high and I do appreciate all the advice. I’ve tweaked the ad and I think it’s much better now, so thank you all.</p>
<p>Sid:
Yall gots ta chill.. All I did was price out a new 05 on Miniusa.</p>
<p>Base S 20,950</p>
<p>LSD 500</p>
<p>HK 550 </p>
<p>JCW 5,775 (Installed)</p>
<p>*$27,775</p>
<p>So that’s under $28k. I even threw in the HK! Just saying that potential buyers of your car are probably doing the same math.</p>
<p>Anyway, good luck.</p>
<p>Sidd,</p>
<p>Putting myself in the buyers shoes …</p>
<p>I used <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.edmunds.com/used/2004/mini/cooper/100330897/options.html">Edmunds</a> to obtain their “True Market Value” for a MCS with the following options:</p>
<p>Stability Control
Cloth Seats
Xenon Headlights
Headlight Cleaners
Fog Lights
Harman/Kardon Audio
Trip Computer
17 Inch Wheels
Auto Climate Control</p>
<p>For a Red 2004 MCS with 18,000 miles and outstanding condition, the “Private Party” value was $20,216.</p>
<p>I then configured a new 2005 MCS at MINIUSA with the following options:</p>
<p>Sport Package ($1350)
Hardon/Karman Audio ($550)
Automatic AC ($300)
On-Board Compture ($200)</p>
<p>Including Base Price and Destination, the total came to $23,350.</p>
<p>Now for the value of the JCW Kit …</p>
<p>It must be depreciated just like the other options on a used car. I’d say getting the cost of the kit ($4775) would be doing well.</p>
<p>I’d have to agree with nrkist in saying “you need to drop your asking price to $25k to get any action”.</p>
<p>Let me try a different perspective. I’ve bought more than a few used cars in my time, and here is how I approach a particular car:</p>
<p>Get an average valuation from kbb, Edmunds, NADA and autotrader. This usually provides a decent range to work with (low, average and high). The amount of remaining warranty, the quality of the cosmetics, the condition of the car and the presence of a complete service history will affect where I think the car falls on the scale.</p>
<p>Accessories added to the car. If I like them, they’re worth 50% of the purchase and installation price to me. If I don’t like them, I deduct the full purchase and installation price of whatever is necessary to remove/replace the accessory.</p>
<p>Final thought: never be afraid to walk away from a car. Chances are, there are more to choose from. </p>
<p>How does this help you, the seller? Just tailor your presentation to match what I’m looking for. And don’t be afraid to stick to your price if you think it’s fair. Even if I don’t buy your car, chances are someone else will. But if it’s been a while and no one has bought, you might want to rethink your pricing.</p>
<p>In the end, a fair deal is the compromise struck between what the buyer is willing to pay and the seller is willing to take.</p>
<p>nrkist & miniac. Thanks for the input, but you guys are not in my potential customer group. With regular ’04 S models going for $26K here, dropping my price to what you suggest would REALLY set off some alarms.</p>
<p>“In the end, a fair deal is the compromise struck between what the buyer is willing to pay and the seller is willing to take.”</p>
<p>Thanks, Kev</p>
<p>Based on where you’re at Jerry – I say stay the course.</p>
<p>Sidd,</p>
<p>I’d suggest adding “OBO” following the price in your Craigslist listing.</p>
<p>Have you tried posting your car at NAM?</p>
<p>Best of Luck</p>
<p>Thanks for everyone for all the tips. I currently own a CR 03 MCS (@ 37.5 K) and planning to “upgrade” to a 2006 model when the time comes. I LOVE this car and would like it to pass it on to another MINI lover.
The only question mark in my mind is regarding the repair history of my car. Unfortunately, I’ve had quite a few visits (around 30) to the dealer for the last 2 years of ownership. A new clutch, 2 new steering columns, steering pump & rack, new sunroof, etc etc.
My question to you all is this: How should I present these to the prospective buyers without scaring them? I dont want anybody to think that they are getting a lemon. At the end, all the problems were fixed by the dealer and the car works and looks great!
I would appreciate any suggestions on this…
Thanks in advance!</p>
<p>I hope that this won’t be too far of atangent, but I could really use some help from y’all. I’m going to be selling my MCC in a month or so to upgrade to a MCSC. Since I am a recent college graduate, my income isn’t terribly high, and I am afraid it might affect my financing options for the new MCSC. Should I sell my current MCC (and get along for a couple months without a car like Gabe) before picking up the new MCSC, or should I wait until I’ve picked up the MCSC first?</p>
<p>BTW, my MCC is an Oct ’04 build and has less than 7,000 miles on it. If anyone in the SF Bay Area is interested in a well-cared and loaded Cooper Convertible in Cool Blue in the next couple months, please feel free to e-mail me. Thank you!</p>
<p>latte hiatus –</p>
<p>To sell or trade depends on your state. In Georgia (where I live), we pay sales tax on the purchase price. If you trade a car in, the sales tax is only on the trade difference. On a $30k car, the sales tax would be $2,400. On a $10k trade difference, the sales tax would be only $800.</p>
<p>I don’t know how it works in California.</p>
<p>Thanks for the abusive email in my mailbox tonight guys. It’s so nice to know what you think of anyone who dares disagree with you. Have you thought of getting treatment for your anger issues? Or perhaps of growing up?</p>
<p>I had no idea a simple request for advice would cause a flame war. Silly me.</p>
<p>Gabe, I love your site and will continue to monitor the news, but it seems I’ve become persona non grata to a few of your inmates, so I’ll just shut up now.</p>
<p>Regards,
Sid</p>
<p>Really sorry to hear that Jerry. Let me know what I can do to help.</p>
<p>Jerry (Sid):
If you’re still monitoring this one… I was really just trying to offer some advice above, and thought I did so in a fairly friendly and courteous tone. Reading through the thread again, I don’t consider what transpired to even remotely resemble a “flame war,” as you describe it. </p>
<p>A number of people offered their objective opinions on your ad, and some pretty helpful suggestions for changes. You have every right to disagree with them, but I think your last post was totally unjustified:</p>
<blockquote>It’s so nice to know what you think of anyone who dares disagree with you. Have you thought of getting treatment for your anger issues? Or perhaps of growing up?</blockquote>
<p>Now that sounds like a flame. Maybe before you post something like this you should ask yourself, “What would Siddhartha do?” It seems that perhaps you are the one with anger issues. Good luck with those.. and with selling your car.</p>
<p>There’s your guy.</p>
<p>Warning: Very Long. I apologize to everyone except Siddhartha
This is 3 pages in MS Word</p>
<p>Price Impressioning</p>
<p>What is it?
In this regards, getting the price you want for your Mini.</p>
<p>There are stores that don’t know how to get the price that the product is worth. And end up selling it for a reduced price. You may know of some of these places (Stupid Prices, The Dollar Store) </p>
<p>Through proper sales techniques, it is possible to get OVER what you want for your Mini, IF it is properly price impressioned. Often times this is called “Selling”. To the layman that’s all it is. To a marketing/sales professional it is much more complicated than that. </p>
<p>One area that I noticed that would look contradictory (though accurate), is the representation of the price of the JCW. This is where you Justify your price and look like a good guy in their eyes. It is imperative that you look honest (I know that you are, but do they?) An off the street buyer wouldn’t know to factor in Installation when Pricing the dealerships. In this sense the ad looks inflated even though its not. Tell them that you are willing to give them Free Labor then specify what that means.
Identify your customer, A Hot Rodder. Your title should be designed to attract them.
Give them a hook to look at your ad. Enough information to get them to look, but not too much that they pass on. Remember at this point less is more. You want to look willing to make a deal without looking desperate. People flee from desperate!</p>
<p>TOO MANY TICKETS! HOTCAR! FREE LABOR!</p>
<p>Tell them what is in your car and how much they would pay if they had to make a car like this. People are lazy, they don’t want to take the time to trick out a car like you did. Let them know that. </p>
<p>What should you list in your Features section? Everything!!! Power windows, Power locks, not just the things that you upgraded but also the standard features. Even a free tank of gas! Who does that with a used car? Don’t list your features as “sport package”, “Cold weather package”. What does that mean? List them it will mean more. And ultimately add more value and that is what we are aiming for. Say “Car cover negotiable” this will add the understanding that you are willing to work a deal without saying OBO.
I saw an ad that read “loaded” and in small print it said, “with all the standard features”. Don’t do that. </p>
<p>After you have properly built up all of these features, they are going to be expecting to pay a lot because you have built up the value of it. So, that is what you do. Give them a high price. Then drop it down to what you really want. This is the negotiating phase. But still leave some room to dicker.</p>
<p>Move the price down so that it 1) doesn’t appear in the title. 2) Appears after you have justified your price (After your PRICED laundry list of goodies) 3) is not hard to find.
Just an example</p>
<p>JCW $5000 Labor $2000 Car $23000 = $30000
Your Price Because of too many -2000
tickets in my Hot Chili Red car $28000 </p>
<p>Now this may seem like a concession, but it is really your asking price.</p>
<p>Car Gotta go! Getting a more stealth color Mini, that is virtually identical to this screamer! </p>
<p>This reassures them that there isn’t anything wrong with this car.
Do not mention LSD at all!!!!!!!!! “show them petals of the rose and let them discover the thorns on their own.”</p>
<p>Willing to sell at a reduced Price, or Free labor!</p>
<p>Tell them what they are getting for their money. Let them know that it is a great idea.
Educate them. </p>
<p>High prices are Earned, not given away. </p>
<p>Move the price down so that it 1) doesn’t appear in the title. 2) Appears after you have justified your price (After your PRICED laundry list of goodies) 3) is not hard to find.</p>
<p>Please take this in the spirit in which it was intended. I wouldn’t have spent the time to write you something this long winded if I was going to insult you. I’m a bit more direct than that.</p>
<p>Picture Pictures Pictures! Color Color Color!</p>
<p>Get off of Craig’s list. Great site, but what is it known for? Value Shopping! Go someplace where people expect to pay more to get more. After all, isn’t that what you want? Personally, I would park it in a high traffic, High priced neighborhood with a sign in it without a price “call for details” Stipulating that a luxury car like this would be a six-month wait. Citing safety, power, and good gas mileage. Don’t say how much. What is good after all? In comparison to an suv, or gas guzzling luxury car this is great! </p>
<p>I am placing this ebay ad her to show an example of a good lay out, but the accessories need to be priced. If you notice at the bottom, the reason that he listed for getting rid of it was something that you can’t directly fault the car for, and wouldn’t keep you from buying it.</p>
<p><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4545969568&category=31861" rel="nofollow ugc">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4545969568&category=31861</a></p>
<p>BTW heres Tirefly’s show car ad in Ebay. Their ad is cluttered and hard to read. Some body had to ask them how much all that was worth. If it was featured as a selling point higher up in the ad, do you think that they would’ve gotten a higher price for it?</p>
<p><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31861&item=4546312278&rd=1" rel="nofollow ugc">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=31861&item=4546312278&rd=1</a></p>
<p>This last one I would just point out the example of the cost of milk. What we want here is to raise their expectation of what they should pay for car.
<a href="http://www.go-scg.com/Priceimpression.pdf" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.go-scg.com/Priceimpression.pdf</a></p>
<p>Okay now I’m ready for everyone to tell me how I’m wrong. That’s okay I can take it.
Best of luck Josh ~</p>
<p>Man I should charge for this. This is too good to give away for free. (was that a price impression I just made?)</p>
<p>Josh, thanks for the long and detailed exposition.
It’s really very simply an act of horse trading. I ask
a price, anyone who is interested makes a counter, I
make a counter counter, so does he, until we reach a
mutually agreeable price. Done deal.</p>
<p>The $28K asking price is not firm, or I would have
said so. It’s just the opening volley. </p>
<p>I didn’t receive any serious offers until I made the
Craigslist ad. Ads in Autoweek, Yahoo Autos, 3 ebay
auctions, the SF Chronicle and Auto Trader, although
cumulatively costly, were unproductive. Lesson
learned. Craigslist is the way to go for right now. I
have three hot leads who are negotiating price as we
speak.</p>
<p>I think that sometimes MINI aficionadoes are TOO close
to their subject and may have a tendency to become too
passionately opinionated. But after all, it’s just a
car. Millions are bought and sold every day. All that
is required is a seller and ONE qualified buyer.
Sometimes it’s hard to have the patience to wait for
that one buyer to find your car.</p>
<p>Thanks again for the advice. I will keep it on file,
although this is probably my last MINI. The idea of a
turbocharged engine by Citroen/Peugeot, not
withstanding Citroen’s success in WRC, really turns me
off. I like my little supercharged Tritec.</p>
<p>Jerry</p>