Here’s another reader question from the ever growing MotoringFile inbox that I thought a few MF readers might have an answer for:
Have you ever heard of the mini computer getting screwed up by splicing in an aftermarket device? I am about to hardwire a radar detector into my sun roof circuit. I’ve heard that some cars start acting wacky after voltage changes caused by tapping a line. / Jim Longo
<p>Tap the power going into the Radio. All radios have a +12 dc regulator built in. You’ll find most people tap this for carphone kits, etc. BUT, beware, this will invalidate your warranty, and if the slightest thing goes wrong, your dealer will try to blame the wiring for it.</p>
<p>The other alternative is to take a separate feed from the battery, fuse it, relay it, and put a switch for it under the dash.</p>
<p>Owen.</p>
<p>Over on NAM under Electrical you will find notes by people that have tapped into the mirror power, the sunroof power, or run a line direct to the fuse box. I would use the mirror power (for the automatic dimming rear view mirror) if it is available as it will be fused at a lower value than the sun roof motor, and should prevent the radar detector cord from catching fire if it accidently got pinched to the car chassis (shorted to ground).</p>
<p>John</p>
<p>I wouldn’t think that would be a problem with the sunroof circuit. It’s already a fairly high-load circuit that fluctuates based on whether or not the motor’s running. I wouldn’t worry about it. I think I would, personally, prefer to run another (switched) feed from the fuse box instead of tapping into anything existing, however.</p>
<p>Make sure you are tapping a POWER line and not the network. The car has several data networks. One runs a single wire against ground, one runs a twisted pair. Since the sun roof can be closed by commands from computer there is a network connection to the roof some where.
J. D.</p>
<p>Might be the simplest to tap into the outlet in your trunk…</p>
<p>mikeythemini (newministuff.com) sells what he calls a “power take-off kit”– it plugs into the back of the radio (between radio and stock wiring harness)and gives you power and ground to wire in LEDs, radar detectors, phones, etc. Best part is, no splicing factory wiring, and it contains its own fuses in case something goes wrong. Highly recommended.</p>
<p>Use one of these, you should be able to find one at your local auto parts store.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-580" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-580</a></p>
<p>There is a good write up on NEMINI hardwiring a V1.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.nemini.org/Forums/viewtopic/t=2499.html" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.nemini.org/Forums/viewtopic/t=2499.html</a></p>
<p>I agree with benzamg, those things a great, I used them a few times.</p>
<p>Anyone got a list of MODs you can do that DON’T invalidate your warranty?</p>
<p>I have instructions on my site (click my name) for taking switched power off the fused box, with its own dedicated fuse. I and several others have successfully done it that way without any issues.</p>
<p>I have found the best place to tap power is from the cig. lighter jack.</p>
<p>It is a good current source that is fused and unlike most it turned off when the key is out.</p>
<p>I understand the reason for wanting to use the sun roof power. The best way to answer which wire will fit your needs is to pick up the Bentley manual.
There is a full wiring diagram in it.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>Jack</p>
<p>I installed a rador defuser on my front license plate frame, and took a wire out from window mirror switch. It has been working well for about six months without any trouble on onboard computer.</p>
<p>I ran the wire for my Valentine One under the headliner, down the passenger side of the windshield, then down under the glove box to the back of the 12v accessory plug. No tools needed other than the pliers to squeeze the connector to splice the wires.</p>
<p>I did it the same way Josh did – no issues whatsoever.</p>
<p>Please don’t tell me someone just admitted to buying a radar ‘jammer’…</p>
<p>I’m sure he meant it in a hypothetical sort of way.</p>
<p>As we know from the Dension ICElink Plus, it is possible to mess up the MINI electronics with an aftermarket device – but you won’t have problems just tapping into supply wires. Just be sure not to hit the wrong wire.</p>
<p>I connected the radar in my 03 cooper to the clock. Works great!</p>
<p>In my 02 I hooked up my detector to the power for the clock, and in the 05 I’ve hooked it up to the same spot, now the additional maplights. Wired into the power line, I leave the detector on. When the car is unlocked, the detector turns on… when the car is turned off and locked, the detector turns off. Never need to remember to turn it on, and never have to worry about draining the battery!</p>
<p>anyone survey what detectors mini owners prefer? lawrence and eric, what are you using?</p>
<p>That’s a good question, John C. I’m kind of in the market for one too (for now, I’ve gotta choose between a harness, tires, or a radar detector…). The V1 has a lot of followers, but there seem to be one or two others (BEL?) which have surpassed it recently. I’d like to find a good side-by-side quantitative comparison, but so far, no luck.</p>
<p>blalor – I keep waiting for Car and Driver to do a comparison. Every manufacturer cites some test to claim they’re the best. The V1 still quotes C&D from 2002 or so. Probably C&D won’t do a new one because they don’t want to upset their advertisers.</p>
<p>So, fellow Mini enthusiasts, how about sharing your experiences, good or bad?</p>
<p>Heh, I’d forgotten that I did find a couple of reviews, but they’re hardly authoritative: they’re linked to on my <a rel="nofollow" href="http://del.icio.us/blalor/radar " title="Brian's del.icio.us bookmarks tagged with 'radar'">del.icio.us account</a>. <em>sheepish grin</em></p>
<p>The V1 does seem to really lack in features, but both reviews are still somewhat subjective, I think. I wish someone would just tell me what to buy, dammit! :-)</p>
<p>I had the hots for a fuzz buster and a nav system for a while, but now that I’ve had a taste of the track with the MINI, I’m thinking about other things to buy. Blast this limited disposable income!</p>
<p>Here links to some online reviews. <a href="http://www.speedlabs.com/" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.speedlabs.com/</a>
<a href="http://www.speedzones.com/" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.speedzones.com/</a>
<a href="http://www.radartest.com/" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.radartest.com/</a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.escortradar.com/" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.escortradar.com/</a>
<a href="http://www.beltronics.com/" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.beltronics.com/</a>
<a href="http://www.valentine1.com/" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.valentine1.com/</a></p>
<p>If you pay a couple hundred for one of the top 3 models you get a similar level of NOTIFICATION. I know people who have used the V1 and liked it. However I have been using Escorts Passport 8500 since 2000 and it has performed very well. I liked it’s features then and still think it is great. I bought their hard wire kit and had a local shop wire it into the map light. I have not upgraded to the new X50 version for the car it is presently in but plan on getting the latest 8500 X50 for our on order MCS.</p>
<p>I prefer the V1
It tells me the number of threats and where they are coming from(front back sides)
Here in Oregon the State Patrol and local cops are rabid. Laser from the median strips, stationary vans with radar, etc.
I’ve been running a V1 on my motorcyle and other cars for three years now without a ticket…..knock on wood.
I just did a high-speed break-in run doiwn to Northern California and the V1 paid for itself at least twice. Between my riding buddies and I we own most all of the detector brands.
When we’re riding in a group the V1 consistently detects faster and provides more information than the others.
That said, I wish Valentine would update their housing and make weatherproof…
Cheers,
Jorge</p>
<p>Thanks for the links MK, and for the real world report Jorge. Wouldn’r it be great if Valentine would enter the 21st century!</p>
<p>How about some ideas as to location and mounts for the detector?</p>
JT,
I know this post is late but if you happen to be checking back. It is basically preference and laser targeting techniques which determine mounting. The window mount I have set up in the MCS is just above the dash/wipers. It made the most sense as I am wired in off the disconnected lighter. How ever in our Jetta I have it wired to the overhead map light and mounted just below the rear view mirror. I personally like the higher location better in the Jetta, while the wife prefers it lower. I have the Escort Passport 8500 models in both cars and have not seen a difference in the unit’s response based on mounting location. The unit mounted high in the Jetta picks up laser just as fast as a low mount. (Must be the police in our area can’t get a good return from the Jetta as they tend to try several attempts before accepting that I am traveling near the speed limit.) Two items of note. With the high mount the police seem to have a harder time visually seeing it in the Jetta. Also the metro squad cars in our area mount the same units high and just below the mirror as well (could be a vehicle based decision). As I don’t drive the MCS every day, I have not had enough experience with the MINI’s laser response profile to say what you might see. For radar signal detection the mounting location does not make a significant difference. It just becomes a matter of preference for sight line and whether it is within reach.
Good Luck.
Motoring not starring at the dash.
Madison