Ask MF: Which MINI Should I Buy?
This is a question we get asked quite a bit around these parts. It’s also a question that we have covered in a few older episodes of White Roof Radio.
MF Reader Chris writes.
>I know nobody trusts Consumer Reports, but they appear to say that Mini Cooper reliability improved greatly from 2005 on. Would it be safe to purchase a 2005 – 2006 Mini Cooper, or should I save up enough money for a 2007 (new model)? Is reliability in the earlier models really that bad?
Keeping in mind that I have a 2003 R50 MINI Cooper with 200+ miles, I would say (and Gabe agrees) to stay away from the earlier MINIs (’02 – ’03) if you can. There are quite a few build issues with these older cars and if you find one that wasn’t properly tended to you might end up with more headaches that you could handle.
However, moving into the newer model years, it becomes more a matter of what you want and how you want it to look. You didn’t say if you were looking for a Cooper or an MCS, but this should cover you either way.
If you like the look of the R50/R53, then you would be a pretty good shape with an ’05 or ’06. If I had to pick, I would get the newest you could find. Keep in mind that these cars are running the Tritec engine, not the BMW-sourced mill. For the MCS it’s the difference between an iron blog and a supercharger (R53) or an aluminum block and a turbo (R56). On the Cooper, it’s not quite as telling, but you will get better fuel economy out of a R56. More information about these cars can be found over the Motoringfile R50/R53 Buyers Guide.
Something to consider about the earlier R56s is the cold start issue has affected some cars. Of course the severity of the issue is up for debate. And then there’s the hot topic of long tail pipes, but a dealer can sort that out for you.
I believe that you would get good reliability out of any MINI built after 2005. Keep in mind that all MINIs come with a 4 year/50,000 mile warranty and covered service for 3 years/36,000 miles. Also remember that any car can and may have issues and you would be greatly served by checking out the service history of any MINI you might be interested in buying. You should be able to take the last 7 digits of the VIN to any MINI Service center and have them check the records for you.
What about the rest of you? Late model R50/R53 or ’07 R56?
I have 70K+ miles on my ’06 MCS, and haven’t had any problems at all. The steering/suspension is starting to show signs of needing a refresh and the powertrain isn’t quite as smooth as it was in the first 30K or so, but that’s to be expected. It’s still the most enjoyable vehicle I have ever driven, and I feel safer driving it than I do driving my wife’s Toyota Tundra 4WD, even in the snowy hills of Pennsylvania.
First, do trust Consumer Reports but look for cases where their evaluations mesh with Car and Driver, Road and Track, etc., LIKE WITH THE MINI. Second, trust Gabe and DB.
After two years of thought we bought a new 2007 MC, auto, SR. We’ve had it 18 months (10k miles) and NO issues worth mentioning (ok, a trouble light “misfired” and the sunscreen wouldn’t close fully, yawn; both fixed by a responsive dealer, downtown Mini in Orlando, FL).
Its been an absolute blast to drive even when compared to my 2001 Miata 5 spd! Great trip car for two.
We had a 2002 R50 Cooper CVT. It was driven daily for nearly 6 years/45K miles with no mechanical/electrical problems. There were some issues with it regarding the “Ratchet sounding” electric boot release, some trim issues (Peeling silver door card pulls), failed rear wiper motor, failed driver’s side airbag harness, etc all promptly taken care of under warranty. But the car never left us stranded on the side of the road, never stalled, had the original factory windshield, had nary a rattle and it was generally a very good car to us.
But I can tell that the build quality std was raised substantially in the 2004-2005 model year. My 2005 R53 S (Sans the clutch) has been incredibly solid.
We also have a ’08 Clubman S auto which has been flawless at 7K miles.
My advice is this….Unless you have to have a manual transmission, opt for either a 2005-2008 R53 S Hardtop or R52 S Convertible with the rock solid Toyota sourced AISIN automatic 6-speed transmission or any 2nd gen model (R56, R55 and R57) with the same AISIN auto and paddle shifters.
To me personally, the OEM clutches in these cars are questionnable at best. The Getrag manual gearboxes are excellent, but the clutch OEM gear is hit or miss at best.
Also, the “facelift” 2005-2008 1st generation cars have numerous improvements both inside and out. Unless you are getting a bargain and somewhat have proof that a “pre-facelift” car has been well cared for, stick with the 2005+ for better odds in the reliability dept.
I have one of the first production (December 2006) R56 Cooper S, with a sunroof and a JCW kit. Beforehand I had a R53 Cooper S (2003). Of the two cars the R56 has better performance, a bit more room, and has a sat nav that I didn’t have before. The R53 was better built, more fun to drive, felt quicker (but wasn’t) and had much better styling inside and out…. if these two cars were on sale brand new today I’d choose the R53 every time.
There is something I have noticed between the 53 and 56…. The 53 feels a little more solid when closing the doors. Is it me? Don’t get me wrong, both are very well built, but there is this “feel’ that MINI used a little ticker gauge metal on the 1st gen cars.
And then again, there are many bits that I think are more solid in the new cars.
As with all things cars, get the best you can afford. The newest models have much better gas mileage, but you get the redicoulous speedo and center stack of questionable design in exchange. I myself wouldn’t stay away from the really early cars. The exception being the CVT tranny and the Midlands 5 speed. But even with the later 1st gens, some of the rubber bits are getting on in years, so expect to replace things like front control arm bushings (just crappy all around) and maybe struts to get a “new-car” driving experience.
If you’re planning on modding, there may be some real deals in the older cars, as the modifications don’t really add to the value that much, unless really, really well done.
Matt
It is easier to mod a 1st gen car. In the case of the R53 S simply adding a smaller reduction pulley can get you another 15-20HP and improved low end torque.
I could write on this topic for the next three hours straight… but I’ll keep this short. I’ve had three MINIs and driven countless others. The best one I’ve ever owned was my ’07 MCS. During my time owning it, it had literally zero issues and was a joy to drive and own. Compare that to my ’02 which came with the added benefit of allowing me to get to know every single person at the shop quite well. The ’05 MCS was much better but certainly not trouble free like the ’07 MCS.
Now R53 vs R56 is another topic and one you should do some searching on MF for some answers on. Generally the R56 is better built and (in stock form) quite a bit faster on and off the track. However the R53 has a certain character some people love. I’d say the first place to start would be a test drive. Then read this article: <a href="https://www.motoringfile.com/2007/11/26/mini-cooper-s-r53-vs-r56/" rel="nofollow">R53 vs R56</a> as it talks about why each car is special.
But whatever you do… stay away from anything with the letters CVT in it.
Gabe it is all relative. Some people have had really problematic R56s off the boat (3-2 gear squeal in manual cars, clutch/flywheel issues, check engine lights, warped hood scoops, abnormal heat in footwell, etc, etc) and others like you and I have had faily flawless cars.
Same with the first gens. Some were lemonade dispensers and others incredibly troublefree (And reporting 200K-300K miles with nothing else but basic maintenance).
My ’05 S has been, in all fairness, a damn good car. The only sore spot with it has been the clutch (Replaced twice under warranty) and the flywheel (Replaced once under warranty also). But the car doesn’t quit otherwise…. Engine, gearbox, electric, computers, accessories, build, NVH all are in high BMW territory. My car is far from being a garage queen or a weekend toy….It is treated like a Swiss knife..does everything and excels at everything you throw at it really well.
The problem with MINI is inconsistent quality accross the board. My impression from owning and driving the newer cars is that MINI is really making huge strides in this area, but there is still work left to be done.
MINI has the old Chrysler build quality issues…. They made 10 really troublefree cars, 5 average, and 5 lemons. They need to close that gap and I think there is a combination of factory QC problems, supplier QC problems and simply an assembly line churning out too many cars, too fast.
Since the world markets have tanked in the past year, I hope this gives MINI an opportunity to pause, revise QC guidelines and continue to crack down on problem areas that detract from an otherwise sensational product.
I think the CVT has gained a very bad rap. Don’t run away from it if the previous owner(s) bothered to change the CVT fluid at least every 25K miles. We did this and never had nary a problem with it.
Also in the same vein, stay away from the 5-speed Midland Gears gearbox found in the 2002-2004 R50 Cooper hardtop (All 2005+ R50 hardtops and convertibles come with a much more solid Getrag 5-speed).
The Midlands is a self destructing transmission. Not even changing the fluid on the thing can guarantee its service life. Some folks have managed to swap them with newer 5 and 6 speed Getrags.
I think the warranty is actually 4yr / 50k…
4 years or 50K miles (whichever occurs first) bumper-to-bumper warranty.
3 years or 36K miles (Whichever occurs first) scheduled service
12 years/unlimited mileage corrosion warranty (Since 2004 model year) Older MINIs have only 6 year corrosion warranty.
I had an ’03 MCS and it had an annoying “crunch” sound that even the factory rep could not fix. It went back to the dealer as a Lemon.
My ’08 MCS 52 Convertible is a joy – Trouble free and rock solid.
I would buy a nice clean ’06 MINI S in a New York minute. The MINIS after the facelift are a world apart from the earlier ones.
Happy Hunting.
My first MCS was a 2002 R53, 6spd, great car. 100% reliable on all of the major systems during the 37,000 smiles I owned it. Of the minor systems there were squeaks, rattles, leaky coolant bottle, squeaks and rubbing in the steering column, all minor, all taken care of during regular maintenance services. Never left me stranded, put up with a lot of vigorous driving. There are things that I still like about that car more than my 2006 MCS, 6spd.
The 2006 has also been very reliable during it’s 41,000 smiles, so far. Only one significant problem was a bad throttle body and the car going into “limp home mode”. All taken care of under warranty with no further problems. No squeaks, rattles or anything else to complain about.
Love the whine of the R53 supercharger better than the R56 turbocharger, but that is a personal thing. I like the 2 spoke multi-function steering wheel, dash and center stack of the R50/53 much better than the R56, again, that is personal.
I’d like to point out here that during the six years that I have owned a MINI the service at MoFC has improved dramatically and is now something I feel comfortable recommending to anyone. The first year or two were almost enough to make me think about changing brands. Glad I stuck with them.
To Chris: Since you’re asking,here is my following answer: Buy new. Base on the years I’ve owned my ’03 MC new,I had various problems from cracked,front windshields to shot transmissions;however,the MINI warranty was the best. No questions asked,they fixed the car,and if if took more than a day,they would give me a rental. The warranty alone help me to pay off,”SADE”,ahead of time;and,with the Country going into recession/depression you want a car that not only gets great mileage;but,you also want a car that doesn’t have you paying extra when it goes into the shop. Plus,unless its’ a classic car,I have never care for used cars…it’s like paying for someone else’s,”sloppy seconds.”
MINIs are like shoes, everyone’s got a pair but they’re vastly different from one another. These cars aren’t as bad as Volkswagon’s Monday/Friday build quality issues, but you should always consider each car to be a unique sample of a greater whole. My R56 has had all of the above issues, others like Gabe have not. This goes for every model and year this little gem has been produced. Unlike quite a few other manufacturers, most of these problems are not reoccurring. They tend to be one-shot problems that, when properly delt with, are no longer an issue.
Would I trade in my car because of this? Heck no! Would I be reluctant to buy a used model? Definitely not! MINI’s warranty is spot on and relatively hassle-free. Be sure that whatever car you buy has had it’s repair and crash histories checked. Read the MF Buyer’s Guide and research each prospective car like it was the only one of it’s kind ever made. Only then will you truly get a feel for it’s own unique quirks.
I would say go for the R56. I bought my cooper S as one of the first runs to be shipped to the USA. The car has 25k+ miles and I have not had any mechanical issues. I had the cold start noise twice which has not been an issue since then. I have autocrossed the S@&$ out of the car and it has done very well. I also use it for commuting to work. The only suggestion I have is that you don’t wait to ditch runflats. The car is worlds better with regular tires.
Most posters here talk of the MCS, so I’ll comment to the MC. I have a R56 MC, and I am real pleased with improvements made over the R50. If it is a choice between MC models, I’d go for the R56 no question. The R56 MC is available with the auto Aisin 6 spd as opposed to the R50 which has a CVT. In the manual MC, the R56 bumped up to a 6 spd from a 5 spd in the R50, and the torque curve in the R56 MC is flatter with better low end response than the R50. All in all the R56 MC is a better performing car than the R50.
As far as the MCS goes, read the article Gabe links to, or visit any one of the hundreds of threads on NAM, most ultimately locked, as the MCS owners are rather passionate about their cars!! 🙂
The original post mentions Consumer Reports, and I believe they recommend the MC, but not the MCS.
I have a 2004 MCS, which is not without issues ($1400 in the past year, if I remember right). I would not buy a used Mini. You can’t trust that a previous owner took decent care of any car, and I think Minis have enough issues and quirks that it goes double for them. Maybe a certified used 2005 or 2006, but nothing earlier.
I think the MC R56 would be the way to go for me.
I’ve had many problems with my ’02 S. (3) clutches, (2) flywheels, numerous rattles, numerous electrical problems that disappeared when the wiring harness was replaced, several super charger air leaks, and a passenger side seat that is hard to put back in place when you lean it forward to get to the back. Through all that, my wife and I loved the car and would buy a new one (once Mini gets over the over designed interior). That is until I went to start the car to take my wife to the hospital because she was in labor with our first child – and the electrical gremlins struck again and the car would not start. Dead as a door nail. And I should add that our Mini has only 59,000 miles.
Wife has sworn Mini’s off for good and I can’t blame her. She’s told me that if I get a new one, I’ll be on my own, and I absolutely won’t get a new one until they stop over designing the interiors. Most likely my first Mini will be my last.
I have a 2004 MINI Cooper with almost 60k miles. He’ll be 5yrs on 1/2/09. He’s awesome. My dad has a brand new 2009 MINI Cooper. It’s not too bad either.
I’d say run away from a 2002-2003 model year MINI. Way too many problems. Most if not all of them had been sorted for the 2004 model year. The 2005-2006 have a better put together dashboard w/less pieces and better door armrests.
Has my car been immaculate? No- random new steering rack and shifter cables needed at 43k miles. But that may have come to notice only b/c I’m obsessive. Never left me stranded though. Starts everytime. And brings a smile to my face everytime I see him and get motoring. I get over 36mpg on the highway. 30mpg with a mix of driving. I’d say the Tritec is rough, but has great power and a nice growl under acceleration.
Compared to my dad’s R56 Cooper, his is more refined, smoother, and gets an unbelievable 40mpg in combined driving. Both of our cars are solidly built with very rare squeaks. When pushed, I still think the R50 has better steering feel and is more composed on the base suspension than the R56 Cooper. My dad should have gotten at least the sports suspension.
In the end, I’d never trade in my 2004 R50. Too much character. What would I buy if given the chance today? Either a low mileage 2005-2006 Cooper S manual or an R55 Clubman (can’t decide if I’d want the better mpg of the Cooper Clubman or more power and the same mileage I get in my R50 of the Cooper S Clubman).
Happy Hunting!
Dede, that is too bad. One bad apple spoiled it for you.
This old can of worms again? Cool! I love the debate. I’ve owned two ’05 MCS (one a JCW, one modded), one ’07 JCW R56, and currently an ’08 JCW MCSC.
Never kept one long enough for reliability issues. But in terms of looks, design onside and out, and performance I’d go for the R53/52 all day.
Go for an ’05/06 as the “refresh” gave it a nice performance bump.
No slight to the R56 as I loved that too.
Remember some statistics…. Whatever one had as an experience with the one (or two or three even) cars that one may have owned, that is far from a statistical base on which to judge a year or a chassis style. New Minis were built at a clip of 200k or so per year to start, up to about 240k a year now. Even if you had a problem (like a clutch or whatever) the failure rate is still small overall, but there are some systems that have rates that are worrysome. The midlands and CVT both had failure rates that were worrysome, and the CVT in particular is an expensive pill to swallow if the car is out of warranty. Superchargers seems to need some care and feeding as they get up in age as well. But then, it depends on your budget, doesn’t it?
If you must have an R50/52/53, then make sure that you keep some cash available to deal with some items (what depends exactly on what car you get and how many miles) as these will be preventitive measures that will pay in the long run. If you’re OK with an 07+ coupe, then the high resale prices and the unknown of the previous owner may make buying new (along with the ability to finance) a much better way to go.
Matt
Once I can afford to get a new car I’m looking at a new Mini Cooper S. I’m just hoping the dealer can budge on pricing a bit.
I own and still swear by my 2002 MCS. If I was to upgrade to a later model it would be to a late model R53 MCS (e.g. 2005 or 2006) with low mileage. My personal preference would be for a stylish MINI such as Chilli, Checkmate or Park Lane variant. The R57 seems to be too refined (too Euro?) and lacking the character of the R53, plus I have lingering doubts about the Prince engine compare to the R53’s proven award-winning W11. If you buy an R50 or R53, make sure you check under the body door seals for rust (mine was rusted and has been treated).
International Engine of the Year Award:
2003
1.4-litre to 1.8-litre: MINI Supercharged 1.6-litre (Cooper S) – R53
2007:
1.4-litre to 1.8-litre: BMW-PSA 1.6-litre Turbo (MINI Cooper S, Peugeot 207) – R56
2008:
1.4-litre to 1.8-litre: BMW-PSA 1.6-litre Turbo (MINI Cooper S, Peugeot 207) – R56
Prince engine has won more awards (2007/2008, maybe more in the future). It’s an aluminum block engine so it is much lighter than the iron block W11. No doubts iron block engine gives you more extreme turning potential, but plain stock Prince has considerably more low-end torque.
People diss the CVT, but we have a 2004 R50 MC automatic with 50,000 trouble-free miles on it. No regrets.
I think the Prince is apretty impressive engine. Fuel economy and power delivery are top notch. The TRITEC is more old school, cast iron block, SOHC, rail fuel injection, etc but that little motor is virtually bulletproof and has a nice growl to it.
I think in its time the tritec won one of those engine awards too. Was not BMW in on the development of the tritec from the start just like the prince?
yes the supercharged tritec won an engine design award.
IIRC, BMW did have design input on the tritec engine; but chrysler refused to consider dohc with variable valve timing. hence the eagerness to redesign the engine. And rest is history.
I started w/ an ’03 Cooper and now I drive a full factory JCW ’06 R53. I wanted the sound of a the supercharger, the exhaust burble, and the interior layout I’d grown familiar with. The JCW has plenty of power and get-up, and though I haven’t test driven a new MCS, I can’t imagine that it would impress me more. A new JCW would probably be another story, but I have the JCW suspension, an extra on the new factory models. I’ve had zero issues w/ this car so far, other than it being in a serious wreck. It was very well repaired, and still runs like new. I’ll stay w/ mine unless a serous M-type MINI comes down the pike.
Heyduard, that is not true at all. BMW was in dire straits to get a suitable engine for the MINI at the tail end of 1995. The Rover K-Series had been rejected as a candidate because that would have implied raising the hood (What an irony eh? The did exactly the opposite on the R56 to comply with pedestrian laws, ed.)and altering the curves on Stephenson’s design. Besides BMW at the time, did not consider any Rover powerplant to be worthy of the car (This was among many quarrels and power struggles between Rover and BMW).
So they turned to then Chrysler Corporation (Before the 1998 “Merger of Equals” with Daimler-Benz) and they tasked the Auburn Hills company with the development of a 1.6L engine that would suit the driving characteristics of the car and would mount low enough so no costly re-design of the bonnet would have to be made.
However, the Detroit Chrysler engineers had not been exposed to a Mini. They had no idea how a Mini engine drove and felt like. So BMW decided to ship a few “new” classic Rover Minis to Auburn Hills so the engineers involved in the BMW MINI engine program could drive them and get a feel for what the new engine was expected to emulate in the new cars.
Chrysler did an impressive job, and within 1 year thay already had a working prototype of the TRITEC. In the interests of lower costs and faster turn around development times BMW abandoned the idea of making the engine more complex (DOHC, VANOS and the like). At the end of 1996, early 1997 a few TRITECs were already been tested in R50 mules in Europe. BMW was pleased with the quick results and so the TRITEC would eventually become the launch engine for the MINI Cooper in mid-2001.
Contrary to popular belief, The supercharged version of the TRITEC was more of an after taught as the R53 engine was not developed until much later in the program. The required modification work to turn a 115hp TRITEC N/A engine into a 163HP Supercharged beast was assigned to British performance turner, RICARDO.
And this is why the R53 S will always be and will go down in history as a very special high performance version of the BMW MINI.
For the R56, engine development work in conjuction with PSA began in late-early 2003. BMW took a very different development path with the R56 as both N/A and turbocharged versions of the Prince engine were developed at the same time.
Hope this helps!
Also BMWs motivation to move away from the TRITEC had many reasons:
1) Have better control over the manufacturing process. The TRITEC was made in Curitiba-Brazil and the engines had to be shipped back to Europe for final vehicle assembly. In the 1st gen MINI, the engine was the only component not made in the European Union.
2) Reduce costs. Cheaper to make the engine in Hams-Hall (Engine plant part of the MINI Oxford three point manufacturing triangle) and transport the finished engines just a few miles away back to Cowley (Oxford) than to bring them back all the way from South America.
3) Tax and labor incentives. Instead of having Brazilians be paid to assemble MINI engines, now you can have local labor and keep the wages within EU boundaries. But it was probably still cheaper to have the Brazilian wages vs the UK salaries.
4) Stricter European Union emissions laws. The Tritec (Especially the S) has a larger carbon foot print than the current Prince Turbo charged powerplant in the R56 S. The TRITEC in its original form was not going to be able to meet those regulations.
5) BMW can now incorporate and ‘trickle down’ engine technologies found in the rest of the BMW product portfolio… VANOS, DOHC, direct fuel injection, lightweight aluminum components,Twin scroll turbos, etc that were ommited from the TRITEC due to development and cost issues at the time the R50 MINI was being developed.
Perhaps there are other reasons that escape me at the moment, but basically, the TRITEC was a stop gap solution for BMW to quickly bring the 1st gen MINI to market. However, the TRITEC was never intended to be a permanent staple of the MINI product line, like the original BMC A-Series engine was to the Classic Mini.
If you want irony, yeah, they had to raise the hood-line even higher than the R56 to fit the supercharger.
Watch out for those engine awards…. The powerplant has to be “nominated” by the car company, and the evaluation criterion omit things like the cold start rattle or the oil temp issues in the twin turbo 3.0 mill from BMW. So while it’s a nice laurel to be had, it’s not the objective engineering award that many think it to be.
Matt
C4, thanks for the informative posts regarding engine development.
I owned a 2005 Cooper S which was a really great car. I’d heard some horror stories on the earlier cars, but I am a brave man so I decided to try one despite the reputation. I actually used to drive FIATS! My MINI had no problems with reliability, although it did have a few dash rattles which were promptly fixed by the dealer. I recently traded it in for a 2009 JCW. The new R56 is superior in just about every measurable category. Aside from being noisy when first started (sometimes it almost sounds like a tailpipe is not bolted up – rattles and sounds harsh for maybe a minute) there have been no real isues. The ride of the new car is much better in terms of driving stability over rough surfaces, but steering is still very sensitive at highway speeds. I agree with whoever said to ditch the run-flats. This made a HUGE difference in handling and ride on the 05. So, my experience with these cars (post 2004) has been very positive. I’d buy another MINI.
Mike – agree to a certain degree about the run-flats. My ’02 MCS came with 17 inch S-spoke alloys with Pirelli runflats. I later picked up a set of 16 inch MINI alloys with runflats and the ride comfort improvement was very noticeable that I’m sticking with the 16 inch rims!
When the tyres wear out, I may switch back to 17 inch with non-runflat tyres or stick with 16 inch rims with or without run-flats. At least the non run-flats can have punctures repaired (Pirelli runflats are not allowed to be repaired, only replaced), are significantly less expensive than run-flats, the ride is more comfortable plus places less stress on the suspension IMHO. For the cost of a Pirelli run-flat I can buy a new spare genuine MINI rim plus non-run-flat.
<p>C4 (way up) is absolutely right:</p>
<p>“Gabe it is all relative. Some people have had really problematic R56s off the boat (3-2 gear squeal in manual cars, clutch/flywheel issues, check engine lights, warped hood scoops, abnormal heat in footwell, etc, etc) and others like you and I have had faily flawless cars.”</p>
<p>I know absolutely every last member of the shop at the dealer I visit. The service manager and I are now great friends! I have had a love hate relationship with my R56 ever since it arrived 34,482km’s ago. Thankfully I bought the tire and rim warranty – been through 5 tires and two rims this past winter! Fog light housing replaced. Housing and lights above plate on lift gate replaced. Leather on driver and rear passenger seats pulled at seams and needed re-stitching. Bolsters on driver seat needed replacing. The list goes on! These are all cosmetic and convenience issues and not drive train related, but when you drop 50K (CAD) on an MCS you don’t expect to be having these kinds of issues.</p>
<p>Possibly in the market for a second. Am seriously considering an R53 to any new R56 variant.</p>
<p>Would love to find a very well treated 2005 R53 JCW. Here’s hoping!</p>
<p>I am interested in purchasing the below mentioned Cooper S, which is a 2005. I have taken it to a mechanic in Virginia who stated that it looked good and needed a brake fluid flush. He also mentioned something else, which caught my attention. He stated that the front brakes were EBC greens, which I recognize from my autocross days. I’ve driven the car twice and did not see, or hear anything that would make me nervous. Got the Carfax and called Mini about service and both appeared good. Would like some feedback if possible based on experience. Thanks.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp</a>;?tracktype=usedcc&searchType=22&pageNumber=0&numResultsPerPage=50&largeNumResultsPerPage=0&sortorder=descending&sortfield=PRICE+descending&certifiedOnly=false&criteria=K-|E-|M-<em>303</em>|H-|D-<em>6848</em>|N-N|R-50|I-1%2c7|P-PRICE+descending|Q-descending|Y-<em>2005</em>|X-popular|Z-20708&aff=national&paId=295263952&recnum=18&leadExists=true</p>
<p>The previous link that I posted for the vehicle is not working for some reason. I hope that this will solve the issue.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.farrishsubaru.com/used-inventory/vehicle-details.htm?vehicleId=3903239f7f00000100863cc142479c11" rel="nofollow ugc">http://www.farrishsubaru.com/used-inventory/vehicle-details.htm?vehicleId=3903239f7f00000100863cc142479c11</a></p>
<p>Thanks Again</p>
<p>I have an 06 MCS Checkmate w/25k Miles. Great vehicle with a few problems. Some of these are substantial to early. Run flats are an issue. Trying to figure out what to do with the run flats. Which leads me to the suspension problems. Have to go back to the dealer now because of a sheep sounding noise (eeh, eeh). Strut mount before. Gas prices being where they are, I’m keeping it for now.</p>
<p>I have owned many expensive cars most recent being a Bentley. I visited a MINI showroom as my friend was purchasing a MINI herself. I was very inspired and the salesman doing his job lured me into a MINI. Never driven one or sat in one returned from the testdrive and loved it! I am now the proud owner of a mini john cooper works fully loaded which cost me 33k! love it!</p>