Today we’re introducing you to a new contributor to MF, Gregory La Vardera. Greg has the benefit of owning one of the first R56 in the US and thus will be one of the first owners to have a 2nd generation car out of warranty. So to celebrate this, he’s put together a list of warrantee work issues that R56 owners may have encountered since purchasing. The idea is to start the list and let it grow organically within the comment section via other owner’s experiences. From there we’ll take this and create our forthcoming R56 Buyers Guide (a la the R50/R53 Buyers Guide we released a few years ago)
The nature of manufacturing means that what one person sees, others are likely to see as well. I thought if we shared our experiences here and in the comments it could turn up some items that others might have missed, and ensure that owners have a chance to get them tended to under warrantee. My own Cooper S was delivered at the end of February 2007, the first S my dealer handed over. Over the past 3 years I’ve received outstanding service from my dealer who fixed anything I asked them to. So in that spirit here is a list of service work I’ve encountered in the past 3 years.
Note: I will expand the list with relevant items from everybody’s comments (marked From Comments).
On Delivery
I had no major surprises when I picked up my car. These items are so minor they are almost not worth mentioning, but at the outside chance someone else has overlooked them its worth listing:
Tow Hook Cover: The tow hook cover on the front bumper was loose on delivery. It did not seem like it was going to fall out, but there was play and you could move it visibly. I am not sure what they did about this but it was quickly resolved.
Filler Cap under hood Rubbing: A small black cap in the front left corner of the engine compartment, forward of the yellow dipstick cap, was rubbing on the underside of the hood and went through the color layer. It was resolved by loosening the clamp that kept it in place and moving it down a fraction of an inch. Service even touched up the paint.
Interior
Drivers Side Rubber Floor Mats: The rubber mats that came with my car quickly lost the velcro glued to the underside of the mats. The problem was simple – the velcro was stronger than the glue. The dealer put a new mat in and the velcro has stayed in place.
Front Seat Cover: I noticed at about 2 yrs that my passenger side cloth seat cover was starting to fray at one of the seams. This was very slight – a small patch of threads coming out of the seam. I raised it with Service figuring I just wanted it on the record when/if it split open wide, but they wanted to replace it immediately. Review the seams in your upholstery and make sure that nothing is opening up or fraying.
Cracked Seat Hinge Cover: This is the plastic cover that goes over the hinge where the seat tilts. This was likely broken when the seat cover was replaced, but it raises a general concern – when any work that involves trim is done you have to go over the work and check that everything is still whole. Its easy to break a piece of trim taking things apart and putting back together. I was tipped off about this when I found a plastic tab on the floor mat. It sat in the coin cup for 3 months before I figured out where it came from and realized the trim had broken. Dealer swapped it with no questions asked.
Rear Seat Cover/Baby Seat Hold-Downs: This was an unusual item and could easily be overlooked. At about 2yrs I noticed that I could see some of the rear seat pad showing through around the Baby Seat Hold Down fittings. On closer look it was clear that the cover was not torn. It was just that the fabric had sort of “settled in” and the edge of the fabric was no longer hidden behind the rim of the Hold Down fitting. The back seat had not been used that much so it was not worn nor torn, and it did not really look as if it had stretched. Service looked at it with me, and they agreed something was wrong. We opened up one of the 2009 cars in the showroom found that Mini had changed the design of the Hold Downs. The rim around the fitting had been make larger, the better to cover the opening in the fabric. Clearly a small design improvement had been put into production at some point. Service looked into trading out the fittings but in the end the entire seat cushion was swapped out. Check your hold downs – if the hole in the fabric is exposed revealing the foam pad then consider raising it with your service manager.
Chrome plating on interior trim: This was also unusual. The chrome trim ring at the top of my shift knob began to chip off at around 2.5 years. It was on the front of the knob facing the dash and I never would have seen it except that the edges of the plating were sharp as razor blades and I could feel it when I was shifting. My dealer was a champ and replaced it without question – the knob came with a whole new shift boot as well. So check that your chrome trim is not flaking off anywhere.
Exterior
From comments – Sunroof Malfunction: Several people have reported that they have had malfunctions with their sun roofs. Although I doubt you would have missed this there is chance that somebody coming out of warrantee now had not used theirs all winter. So fire up your sunroof and make sure all is well before your last service.
From comments – Warped Hood Scoop: This has become a pretty well known problem. Turbo heat warping the resin hood scoop. MCS owners look at your scoop closely before your last service and make sure its not in need of replacement.
From comments – Cracked Fog Lights: A few comments mention that they had stress cracks, or condensation within their fog light lenses. Down on your hands and knees and have a look before you bring your car in.
Drive Train
From comments – 3rd to 2nd downshift: A few people have made the same complaint about their standard transmission making a “groan” sound on downshift from 3rd to 2nd. If that story sounds familiar realize that all is not normal there and make sure you put it on your dealer’s honey-do list before your last service.
Service Bulletins
Should not be limited by your warrantee period:
Start up noise: I first noted this sound in my journal on 6Mar, a week after I picked up my car. It was 16deg that day. I kept notes and made observations until I could reliably predict when the sound would occur. BMW issued the bulletin, the work was done, and its not returned.
Exhaust pipe tips: This generated quite a bit of discussion on MF. I opted to not have this done when my car cycled in for other maintenance. Watch your shins.
Maintenance
routine items to align with your last warrantee service:
Wiper blades: Even simple things like this are included in your maintenance, so don’t suffer streaking wiper blades, and make sure to leave your last service with fresh ones.
Tire Rotation: My run-flats are used up and I’ll finally get to replace them this spring. My tires wore pretty evenly and so I think they were only rotated once. Make sure to have it checked and swapped if front or back is wearing faster.
Oil Change: the OBC was calling for oil changes at about 18,000 mile intervals for me. Crazy, I know. I paid for a few changes in there and added a few quarts between changes along the way too. I tried to keep it to 7k. If yours are stretching out long watch your oil level between service, and see if you can’t time it to have one last change under warrantee.
Brakes: I happened to go through my brakes in 29k miles, just within my last weeks. I left with new pads and rotors. It might be worth checking with your dealer to see what the OBC reports as left in your brakes. If you are a few months out and brakes nearly worn, then favoring the brakes over the clutch for the last few months of warrantee may help you squeeze a brake change into your service.
<p>I have been the (mostly) happy owner of two R56 Cooper S and the only problems I can report is the known “cold start” issue, and more recently I had a fuel pump fail. My dealer has always been so amazingly great to deal with, constantly going out of their way to stand by their product and keep me happy. I think the R56 is a super car.</p>
<p>My MCS is my first car, and I have had an excellent experience with it so far. At 15k miles, my turbo went out, and it was my first warranty claim. Like Dylan^ I had a fuel pump go out, which just got replaced a few days ago, at 30k miles. A contributing factor was also the carbon build-up in my engine. During my 30k service, I had MINI replace my shift lever (I have an auto), as the chrome button was loose and would make noise while driving. After that, both metal door sill inserts starting lifting off, so MINI replaced those as well. Everything else has been great!</p>
<p>I have the MC R56. Aside from yearly maintenance, the only repair work I’ve had done is the secret compartment had a terrible rattle. It and the mechanism for it were replaced. Then last year I recieved a recall notice for the cat converter. Replaced.</p>
<p>That’s about it but I’ll look for the things above.</p>
<p>O, one other thing, I’ve had the silver ring replaced on the key fob every year, and every year it falls off. Just got back from my last free yearly service appointment, I opted to just leave it off.</p>
<p>All in all its been a great car.</p>
<p>^ great to hear you can get the silver ring on your key job replaced. No matter how careful I am, mine always gets chipped and lots second hand and old compared to my spare, unused key. Wish the silver paint they used (or whatever it is) was a bit more resistant to scratching. I’m happy to pay for a replacement though</p>
<p>I also have a 2007 MCS R56. I have had my MINI in for 1 Oil Service and one annual oil change, a few tire rotations, and a couple updates (didnt do the tail pipes, I have aftermarket exhaust).</p>
<p>My MINI has been perfect! Havent even had any of the “Normal” problems on the forums. Makes me think that these problems on all the forums are the same people reporting them over and over! ;)</p>
<p>Where should I start?! My 2007 Cooper S has been a lemon for MINI, thankfully I will not be keeping this car beyond warranty. The prospect of this would scare the sh!t out of me. My car was delivered March 10th, 2007.</p>
<p>Here we go:</p>
<p>Delivery – Driver side door fit was completely out of alignment, dealer tried to repair it first time by tightening, second time by loosening and finally managed to get it on the third service appointment. Chrome on key fob was cracked on one of my keys when I picked up my car! Both keys have had this replaced about 5 times each over the last 3 years.</p>
<p>Wheels & Tires – I opted for tire and rim warranty: thankfully!!! I live in Toronto, Canada, our winters – with the exception of this past season – have been epic, as such I have been through 6 tires and 3 rims in the last 3 years. The pot holes are nasty! My main complaint is that run flats are garbage the second they encounter any sort of resistance. By no means am I driving right through sunken man holes, sometimes all it takes is a 2″ divet in the asphalt at 40kms/hr!</p>
<p>Exterior – Fog lights and housing have been replaced 3 times! Each and every time I noticed condensation building up on the INSIDE of the housing. They currently condensing internally, again – this will be lucky number 4. I have had the exhaust tips changed as per the service bulletin. Hood scoop melted. Rear lift gate lock assembly replaced. Arches in wheel wells replaced and “adjusted” several times as they continuously pop out.</p>
<p>Interior – I have my daughter’s car seat in the back and as the original poster had noted, the plastic child brackets pushed in are constantly popping out due to the tension of the seat against the leather. These have been replaced 4 times. The leather is still exposed at the edges – I’ve given up on this. Velcro on rubber has disintegrated several times, or should I say the glue that adheres the Velcro to the floor. Mats have been replaced a few times.</p>
<p>Electronics – keys along with several batteries have had to replaced (both) several times. For some reason fob can’t hold a charge, therefore my comfort access keeps telling me my keys are dead. Don’t know how or why as I sometimes drive with my key in dash for weeks at a time – even though I paid $500 for the luxury of not having to do so! Odometer (on steering column) constantly flips back and forth between KM’s and MI’s at will. Without reason. Always having to re-program computer. Circuit board for rear tail light died, not just the bulb, the entire controller board too!</p>
<p>Engine & Mechanical – busted tie rod ends, two fuel pumps, hydraulic shocks on tailgate, cold-start, timing chain, ECU corruption and reprogramming, turbo malfunction, transmission mount replaced — I can’t remember all of it, but those are the big ones.</p>
<p>My 2007 MCS has been an absolute disaster. It hardly sees any action and is only driven within a 20km radius of where I live – for grocery shopping, etc. There’s always something wrong with the damn car.</p>
<p>Don’t get me wrong, our dealer is fantastic!!! They have fixed, repaired and/or replaced any components without issue. But I’ll be damned if I’m not there every single week with a different issue — serious issue. The car has been a huge inconvenience for my wife as you can imagine. As she is the one who constantly has to bring in the car for service, switch the car seat over and return later in the day or next morning only to have to go through the whole process again a week later!</p>
<p>Here’s hoping my 2010 JCW Clubman is a much better vehicle.</p>
<p>The key is you had “outstanding service” from your dealer. It seems every time I go for service there’s pushback. I had two of your problems — cold start and the floor mat/velcro issue — and both were deemed “normal”.</p>
<p>The dealer did, however, replace a warped hood scoop. The biggest problem I had was also fixed under warranty. The DSC sensing system in the steering column failed. Apparently this is an expensive problem because the dealer needed permission from BMW Headquarters to make the repair. The car was out of service for a week.</p>
<p>I have my R56 with JCW Aero kit since Jan 2008.Better drive than my 2005 MCS.I’ve had 2 problems with the car,1 was the cold start issue and thanks to Motoring file i got it fixed and have not had any cold start problems since.
The other issue is my Sunroof!! In short it doesn’t work. It’s been back to the dealership twice and it still isn’t working. I’m curious has anyone else had problem with the R56 Sunroof???</p>
<p>My car was getting hot for no reason and it was due to a bad coolant tank cap. Replaced and no other heat problems.</p>
<p>I also had to have the front brake pads replaced on my JCW due to what the dealer called faulty pads. It was still stopping fine but squeeling really bad.</p>
<p>Finally, the timing chain tensioner had to be repaired as part of the cold start issue. It was fixed and seems to be running great now.</p>
<p>@Mark Cichy – wow! after all you’ve been through with your R56, that was one huge leap of faith to buy the Clubman!!!</p>
<p>@Gregory La Vardera – great write up….thanks!</p>
<p>I kinda surprised that no one has mentioned the dealers whether good or bad. It would be nice to see the names of good and bad dealers.</p>
<p>My 2002 MCS was a sadly constructed vehicle but I loved driving it, when it ran, so much I bought a second, a 2004 MCS and it has been a very good, though not without it’s problems, vehicle.</p>
<p>You are right – I should give a shout out to my dealer, Mini of the Main Line just outside of Philadelphia.</p>
<p>My ’08 R56 MC has been virtually trouble-free for nearly 30,000 miles with the exception of some rattling noises from the rear suspension most evident at low speeds on uneven pavement. I’ve had the car in twice to identify and repair the noise. My dealer replaced a rear stabilizer rubber mount on the first visit. After the noise returned I took a ride with the service manager and he thought it might be a loose exhaust hanger but they ended up replacing a stabilizing link on the rear stabilizer bar. This is my second MC from the same dealer (Bill Jacobs in Naperville, IL) and I will definitely buy from them again. They continue to provide exceptional service.</p>
<p>I received my 2007 MCS on 4/17/07. So far no real complaints. In the first year I got a trouble fault about a problem with the license plate lamps and the dealer replaced the whole hatch grab strip. The dealer even painted it black to match the roof, which to me is a very nice look. The dealer has changed the oil every year and I’ve done it once. I’ve also changed a burnt lamp for the license plate which was unrelated to the fault. I just had the MINI in for it’s final free maintenance because I’ve passed the 36000 mile marker and the service adviser suggested a fuel injection flush to counter the carbon build-up that these cars seem to experiencing. I’ll be doing that within the month although I’m not sure if I’ll do it myself or take to a local shop. I wouldn’t let the dealer do it (way too much money).</p>
<p>I’ve had my ’09 MCS for just over a year. When I got it the tire color was wrong so they had to paint them. After a bit of cajoling they agreed to put on my low dust after market brake pads I bought, free of charge, since the tires were coming off anyway. I have had it in 3 times since: for annoying rattles in the doors and dash (still not fixed), a break pad sensor disconnected and something was wrong with my shifter (auto) which triped a warning light. I keep telling them it runs rough in the mornings on cold days and revs a bit at idle but they say they never find anything wrong. I plan on taking it in again before spring to fix the rattles (hopefully) and a problem with the drivers side window. The service dept at International Autos Milwaukee is good enough. I usually have to wait 2 or 3 days to get in and they don’t have enough loaners so I usually end up with a Ford Focus (yuck) or similar rental.</p>
<p>2 years in my ’07 Cooper. Bought new. 44,000 miles currently on the car. Outside of oil changes every 7500 miles my MINI has had the following work:</p>
<p>Catalytic converter/o2 sensor recall work</p>
<p>Driver side seatbelt clincher wouldn’t release seat belt. Replace the assembly.</p>
<p>Sunroof replaced because it would not open at all. Now sunroof doesn’t open when it’s hot out.</p>
<p>Replace clutch @ 33,000. I brought it in complaining of occasional slight grind shifting into 2nd when cold. MINI replaced the clutch. Car still occasionally grinds 2nd when cold.</p>
<p>Drivers seat heater wouldn’t heat up. Replaced the whole assembly.</p>
<p>Love the car will buy another. Prestige MINI is as painless to deal with as a dealership can be.</p>
<p>My 08 R56 Cooper S has been in the shop for 100 days in the last 1.5 years. I’ve had almost every single issue you can think of, and it would take a lot of space to write it out here.</p>
<p>Out of warrantee at 56,000 miles. My MCS was delivered 6/2/2007.
On Delivery: Poor installation of fog lights, finally rewired last month as the wired wore through. The spring shipping spacers had not been removed (and scared me when loose plastic parts started falling out). Had to come back for the roof graphic as they had ordered the white roof graphic which doesn’t work with a white roof.
Interior: rubber mat velcro failure – had to buy my own replacement mat set even though the failure was only on one side.
Exterior: the rear hatch latch does not like temperatures below zero, even though it’s electric it gets ALOT stiffer and hard to use.
Service bulletins:
Yeah, I had the exhaust tips shortened.
Had the clutch replaced due to the honking noise on downshift from 3rd to 2nd.
Finally had the intake replaced for the icing of the throttle body last month, previously had the “catch can fix.”
Other: Lost the coolant driving over a plastic bumper cover left on the highway – engine burned up in about 2 minutes after the warning light came up. Took awhile to find out as first the thermostat had to be replaced, then leak tested – put in a reman. engine (which seems to be a bit better than the original).
Maintenance: due to my driving cycle, oil change intervals are 20,000 miles, still original brakes.
I run winter runflats from October to April so the original performance runflats are good for one more season.
Tucker at Motorwerks has been great to work with, pesky follow up issue occur with the staff in back – missing clips and the like under the hood the main issue.
Waiting for the redesign next year, hopefully the diesel.</p>
<p>Two major repairs under warranty:</p>
<p>1)cold start chatter fixed after a few attempts.
2)new clutch assembly for occasional honking sound when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.</p>
<p>Minor things:
1) rubber mats replaced under warranty
2) a few trim pieces tightened under warranty
3) rattling speedometer casing that I have not even addressed with dealer</p>
<p>Rasmussen Mini in Portland, Oregon has been good at listening and repairing.</p>
<p>Notes: oil/filter replaced every 3-7k miles as cheap insurance.</p>
<p>Canadian-market MC, delivery summer 2007…</p>
<p><b>ON DELIVERY</b>
• chrome trim not lining up/door not aligned correctly.
• cosmo(Kramer)line stains on hood.</p>
<p><b>Over 6 month / 20,000 km ownership period:</b>
• minimal resistance on R lockout gate (updated in production change following year FWIW).
• 2nd gear syncro bad, could not shift even remotely quickly as result. (confirmed by dealer, but told to “monitor”)
• condensation in foglight, both sides (told “don’t worry”).
• stress crack in foglight, both sides (replaced but dealer paid for only one side?!).
• clutch glazing and “chewbacca sound” (de-glazed by dealer as per service bulletin).
• A/C line leak (line replaced by dealer, A/C recharged).
• inside door release failed (repaired by dealer, damaged window tint in process).
• window control module failed, both windows going up and down on their own after rain events (baffled dealer, but confirmed, then repaired, thank god for garage parking!).
• cruise light and nearby idiot light bulbs in speedo illuminated at varying/flickering brightness level when cold outside (reminiscent of previous VW GTI electrical issues).
• engine clatter when cold (investigated by dealer, told “monitor”).
• front wheel arch trim popped out twice.</p>
<p>Didn’t stick around… traded it in…</p>
<p>Almost forgot one last item that had come up:
• dash / HVAC ducting very loud creaks/rattles as car warmed (confirmed by dealer, told “will monitor”).</p>
<p>A tip… I bought an extended warranty through my credit union… It cost me $1800, with a $200 deductible. I’ve used it twice since leaving the OEM warranty and those repairs would have cost me at least the initial cost.</p>
<p>It covered: drivers side seat cover, complete manifold/exhaust system/catalytic converter, drive motor for drivers side window, window lifter, oil pan & gasket.</p>
<p>I think it was cheap and I’m looking to see if I can get it extended past the 75,000 miles, I’m at 65,000.</p>
<p>@goat… what did you get to replace the MINI?</p>
<p>I think this has opened a real can-o-worms, Gabe.</p>
<p>i had the clutch go out on me at 30k which the dealer said was normal wear, so i had to pay for.(moritz mini)other than that nice people. i have had the cold start issue (northwest mini) which was fixed under warranty. hood scoop warp, fixed under warranty. rattle in upper dash pad fixed under warranty. a weird noise from the back wiper motor, fixed under warranty. lately the dealer has been trying to fix a check engine light for increased emissions that pops up every time i get home from the dealer. they are in the process of talking to mini technical because they have replaced the o2 sensors,intake piping,some solenoid, and something else i can’t remember, and it still comes back on. crossing my fingers they get it fixed. other than that i love my car and can’t wait to get it back. (march 2007 mini cooper s w/ nav)</p>
<p>R56S 6spd Delivered 08/07</p>
<p>Cold start problem – took 4 visits and 3 fixes to repair
Squeaky/clicking clutch pedal – replaced entire clutch pedal assembly
Clutch squeal on engagement – replaced clutch and pressure plate
Dash rattle – reattached colored dash inserts
Tailgate rattle – replaced latch mechanism and reattached cover panel with rubber grommets (still rattling)
Cracked chrome key trim – replaced key
Warped hood scoop – replaced, though it’s warped again after only four months!
New brakes in less than 30k miles
Cracked fog lamps – dealer won’t fix and claims road damage, even though there’s not a rock chip on the whole front of the car. Somehow two rocks magically flew right into the fog lamps, missing everything else. Right.</p>
<p>This car can really go through the oil! The cold-start knock came back again and we found that the oil was a whole quart low even tough the idiot light wasn’t on. Apparently, there wasn’t enough oil going to the timing chain tensioner and it caused the knock to come back. Guess I’ll have to check the oil more often 😉 Odd for a new car.</p>
<p>Before anyone takes these problems too seriously, I’d like them to know that I’ve enjoyed every minute with my MINI, squeaks, rattles and warped hood scoops be damned!</p>
<p>@ DUDE: Around xmas 2007 I asked one of my two fave dealers to locate a 2006 R53 that was as close to “new” as they could (and CPO of course for lots of warranty). Lucked out and they found me a 2006 JCW Competition Edition that similar to my trade had only 6 months use. Lickety split…</p>
<p>@ James Irmiger: you suspect correctly re: foglights… it is undoubtedly a stress crack rather than a stone chip that cracked early R56 fogs so often (see forums). Dealer gave me the same song-and-dance about stone chips and the compromise we reached after close inspection is they replaced one under warranty as a stress crack, I replace the other out-of-pocket as “rock chip”. Not a huge deal but it was annoying at the time to have to argue against a highly improbable double-rock chip in exactly that spot both sides of the car after just few weeks of driving. :)</p>
<p>Consumer Reports includes the R56 in the list of “Recommended” cars in their 2010 “Annual Auto Issue”. They rank it “high” in owner satisfaction, and report that most owners say they would “definitely” buy another MINI. They do point out the confusing controls for the audio and climate systems, along with a “choppy” ride, and a “very tight” rear seat.</p>
<p>They also note the slight “hesitation” or “jerk” in acceleration when starting out from a dead stop, which I find really annoying with my automatic, especially when I’m in “sport mode”. Does anyone else have this problem?</p>
<p>They usually have very thorough “reliability charts”, and I’ve found in past years the problem areas I had with my past cars matched with their data. The “problem areas” they list for the R56 are “Body Integrity”, Body Hardware”, “Power Equipment”. Overall they rate the regular Mini as “average” and the “S” as “below average”.</p>
<p>So who has experienced Carbon Buildup in #4 cylinder? Rough idle when started and then a Check Engine Light at about 28000 miles. I know of at least on R55 that has.</p>
<p>@Alan Tate – Had that problem twice already …and only have 9,800 miles. Just one of the many problems.</p>
<p>…My 07’S (built march 07) has 80,000 miles and is going start strong. The only issue Iv’e had is the cold start rattle. That is someting I’ve decided to live with because I’m not convinced a real fix by BMW/MINI has been sorted. Other then that Pint is still great, no problems. Interior, no problems, still looks good. Factory runflats went early maybe</p>
<p>…around 25,000 miles. I’m getting ready to put a third set on now before I drive to Colorado in August for MTTS. I just could’nt stand the huge chunks of mileage between factory specified oil changes, so now I change the oil every 5000 miles with Castrol syntec and just eat the cost. I’ve spent hundreds of hours in this car and have loved every minute. I really feel for those owners who have a lousy expierence with this brand. This is my second MINI and will not be my last…</p>
<p>2008 MCS with jcw engine kit. One annoying and also an issue that MINI says is “normal” and even issued a TSB to say that it is normal and telling dealers to not attempt a fix. The issue is with Navigation equipped units. The speedometer needle will make a rattling sound when pressing on the brakes while slowing to a stop. Generally it appears between 25-10mph. The thing that drives me nuts is that it’s not intermittent, it happens every single time I slow down.</p>
<p>But it’s normal… according to MINI.</p>
<blockquote>They also note the slight “hesitation†or “jerk†in acceleration when starting out from a dead stop, which I find really annoying with my automatic, especially when I’m in “sport modeâ€. Does anyone else have this problem?</blockquote>
<p>Could be the traction control preventing your wheels from spinning. It hesitates, you gas harder, makes it last longer…</p>
<p>My R56 was a March 07 build, 38k miles and has had it’s share of issues. Most were corrected by dealer but some were not.</p>
<p>Multiple rattles from day 1, the “secret compartment” rattle was fixed, along with a suspension rattle, which was bad subframe bushings. Many trips before I was believed. Other mystery rattle, never found somewhere from driver’s side dash or under hood, – unfixed</p>
<p>Cold start rattle, fixed after 2 trips to the dealer. Not convinced the issues is solved, still some strange noises when pointed down hill and started, just not as bad, -fixed?</p>
<p>Leaking driver door seal, wet carpet when rains, – fixed.</p>
<p>Excessive wind noise from sunroof, 2 trips to dealer, replaced weather stripping around sun roof – fixed</p>
<p>Intermittent air bag light, couple of trips, finally sql module replaced, – fixed.</p>
<p>Driver side license plate light, burned out twice, -fixed</p>
<p>Intermittent groan when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd, clutch “burned” twice at dealer to remove glaze, problem has returned – unfixed</p>
<p>Rough idle when cold, 2 trips to dealer, replaced 02 sensor, still idles rough -unfixed
(side note, went to pick up Mini as I was told it was ready, got a half block from dealer and sunroof stuck open had to leave car at dealer again.)</p>
<p>Additional clutch squeak when releasing clutch, hasn’t been to dealer yet for that one.</p>
<p>Actually there will be no more trips to dealer for me, I sold my Mini. I loved driving it, I took meticulous care of it and while there were no issues that stranded me anywhere, the constant issues with the car left me feeling less than confident about it’s reliability after the warranty runs out. I have owned many cars, and I spent more time taking my car to the dealer then anything else I’ve owned.</p>
<p>I was considering the new Countryman at one point but until Mini/BMW improves their overall quality, I won’t be buying another. Premium small car the Mini may be, but quality is not one of it’s “premium” features. I’m not a BMW hater either, I’ve been riding BMW motorcycles for years and enjoy them immensely.</p>
<p>I purchased a Jeep 3 weeks ago, and say what you want about American car makers but you know how many issues I have with it? None. Not one rattle. Time will tell of course, but it’s already starting off better than my Mini.</p>
<p>Coldstart problem. The SIM110207 has taken care of it, but I’m worried about what will happen once warranty is expired.</p>
<p>Also had sunroof replaced under warranty. At first it didn’t open at all (when I picked up the car new), then it would only open by first positioning toggle switch forward before moving it backwards.</p>
<p>Forgot the high pressure fuel pump failure early, then the follow up (twice) for fixing the poorly reinstalled fuel guage(s). First claim was that I used poor fuel – nothing but non-oxy for my baby, worst was returns for the tank work as I am 150 miles away. Gauge has gone (only) a little flaky again – won’t get it fixed again.</p>
<p>Feb 07 MCS, 26k</p>
<p>Cold start issue just fixed, no other major issues. Some minor ones fixed and unfixed.</p>
<p>@Greg – “Service Bulletins, Should not be limited by your warrantee period:” You mean these will always be covered?</p>
<p>Regarding the wipers: My wipers were basically crap right away on my ’09 MCS. I didn’t realize it at first since I picked up the car in August, then hit the Pacific NW rainy season in late September/early October. Thought it’d be no problem to get a new set, since they’re supposedly covered under the maintenance program. No dice. The dealer, NW Mini, told me I only get one set a year so I had to wait until next August to get my free replacements. Seemed pretty petty to me, but also seemed just as petty to try and argue over it.</p>
<p>If anybody wants to help me slog through all of this for the items useful as a check list for other owners I will add relevant items to the original post. I noted the following:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Sunroof malfunction seems pretty common, although its not something anybody is likely to miss, I’ll add it.</p></li>
<li><p>Warped hood scoop, since it seems this has been recognized and is being replaced upon request. Does anybody know if this was a service bulletin?</p></li>
<li><p>cracked fog lights, I have to check my own car for this – never noticed. I’ll add this.</p></li>
<li><p>groan on downshift from 3rd to 2nd seems pretty common. I’ll add this.</p></li>
<li><p>I think there are a few mentions of the fuel pump, but like the sun roof I think you will know it if you’ve got it.</p></li>
</ul>
<p>And you take this as a hint that I’m not looking for your service or dis-service history here! Just items you think another owner may find helpful. Thanks.</p>
<p>@ iNomis – Perhaps not all service bulletins are relevant. Some may be clarifications for the service department, but others seem like internal recalls. So long as they applied to your car they were covered. (This is distinct from a government recall which is imposed). My intention is to list the items which an owner may not have been aware of.</p>
<p>Thermostat gave out at about 48000 KM. Glad it was covered under warranty, as it’s apparently a complete module with a sensor.</p>
<p>Cold start rattle was repaired once I heard about BMW’s resolve. Hasn’t since come back.</p>
<p>Fuel pump repaired at about 40,000 KM.</p>
<p>Sunroof sticks in hot weather. I tend to apply very minimal pressure during tilt to just pop it loose.</p>
<p>Great info everyone!! My 09 MCS has been good, but only has 3500 miles so far. Several people have been mentioning the cold start issue and it sounds like I might have that. Where can I find out more about that? Thanks!</p>
<p>I have to say the biggest issue for me was leaky door seals. I parked my car out in the rain for one of our bigger storms, behind the two front seats puddles formed inside the cabin. I could tell something was wrong due to the internal condensation on the windows, and when I pressed the carpet it made a squishy sound with a wet feel.</p>
<p>They pulled the carpet up, and dried out the interior. They also replaced the right and left door seals with the 2008+ model.</p>
<p>Water pump failed, leaked fluid all over garage floor. Mini flat-bedded it to the shop (thanks)and replaced it with a “rebuilt” (to me, aka, “used”) pump. I find that there have been an unusual number of these failures. No problems so far, but the rebuilt thing in a car with 3500 miles kinda hurts. My shop has been exemplary in every way. Good folks — but there does seem to be a quality control issue at Mini. That’s really too bad, because there is so much to love about this little car. It appears that the dealers are left to fix things that the factory should never have allowed to happen, but the good news is that they appear to be very good at fixing things, and in most instances, it appears that the replacement parts used are better than the OEM parts — I wonder if there is a problem with parts supplied to the factory. Most recently, it got a new bushing in the reapr suspension to fix a rattle (didn’t work).</p>
<p>Other than the car not starting when my wife was in labor I had no issues. Oh wait, there was the $5k I spent on “solutions” to trouble codes which ultimately ended up being a faulty wiring harness. Not bitter, my wife just holds grudges. So if I get a new Mini it will have to be because I want to piss her off.</p>
<p>This thread would be more useful if folks would specify the born on date for their MINI along with the issues. We could then get an indication of whether or not MINI has successfully addressed the issues. I get the impression that some of the issues were with the earlier ’07 models although the cold start issue has lingered for way too long. Great idea for this column and I thank both Greg and Gabe.</p>
<p>@GOAT… so how has that 2006 been?</p>
<p>The comments are making me feel nauseous. I traded in my 2006 R53 (which had a bunch of problems right near the end of ownership that were covered under warranty but it still made me worried since the warranty was about to expire) for a 2009 JCW Clubman and now I’m back to the service dept. I was hoping for increased reliability with the newer model…</p>
<p>I think I have the cold start rattle and it was so bad that the car went into limp mode a couple days ago… not accelerating past 50ish km/h so I had to have it towed in. Apparently it’s my fuel pump (?) and that is being replaced today.</p>
<p>My satellite radio antenna doesn’t work (and I’m losing out on my 1year free subscription as each day passes). My brakes squeal like crazy too… reading a few posts up it seems like maybe it’s a problem? My service dept just tells me it’s normal since the pad wear is ok. I notice reduced braking sometimes too, which worries me.</p>
<p>I am hoping that after this everything will be ok. I really want a reliable MINI because I love the car otherwise, but it seems like I’m not having the best luck.. :(</p>
<p>@SFRedMCc & @Greg I’ve had this issue twice. It’s not traction control or DSC cutting power. With the auto trans there’s an issue with the transmission mount being undertorqued. This causes the transmission housing to bump against the loose mount when you hit the gas and then send power to the wheels. I once had it so bad they had to replace the mounts because it was banging when I accelerated. When the trans mount is loose, the transmission housing will twist andcause the hesitationits more pronounced in Sport mode.</p>
<p>I had been thinking about getting another MINI because the stench of my ’05 MCS has just about worn off. After reading a good portion of the comments I think I will look elsewhere.</p>
<p>My 2008 R56 MINI rattles constantly. Rattles from the dash, tach, dash compartment, moonroof and hatch.</p>
<p>The car has been in three times for the hatch rattle… Drives me nuts. Hopefully the next service will resolve it. The moonroof and dash still rattles but not too loudly.</p>
<p>Moonroof had to be adjusted twice as it was getting stuck when left outside in the sun all day.</p>
<p>BMW Downtown Toronto has been great, but I have to wonder if they test drive the car following the rattle repairs. I often pick up the car after parts are replaced but the rattles remain. So maybe calling them “great” is a bit much.</p>
<p>The car is great in many ways, but I won’t be keeping it when the lease expires in 2 years. I mean, I had an eight year old built in Mexico (on a Friday, probably…) econo-box (but still fun!) 2000 Ford Focus ZX3 before the MINI and it never rattled.</p>
<p>My 2009 R56 S had the clutch went out at 14k miles. I’ve never dropped the clutch or rode the clutch. Not to mention 12k of the 14k miles were highway miles.</p>
<p>It seems like the clutch on this car is notorious for failing. Also hear the throwout bearings are made of plastic.</p>
<p>Got my first rattling. Fuel meter is not working properly. Burns oil like a true British car.</p>
<p>I am so glad I leased the car and I can’t wait till the end of the lease.</p>
<p>One more that I was reminded of, motor/tranny mount, big thunk on acceleration until fixed, was replaced under warranty. But I do want another one – it’s soooo fun to drive.</p>
<p>Sorry all, I forgot to mention the sunroof as well. I think it was “fixed” probably 4 or 5 times and still rattles incessantly! Should give massive shout outs to my dealer: MINI Vaughan West (15 min. north of Toronto). I caution all Canadians, or Torontonian’s rather, to stay away from BMW Toronto/MINI Downtown!!! They put R53 brake pads and rotors on my R56 — morons. They were also the ones who continuously caused twice as many issues as they fixed. MVW, in contrast, has always gone to bat for me. This is by and large why I am purchasing another MINI, I’m convinced my first go was simply a bad egg. But from what I’m reading, maybe not?</p>
<p>@ DUDE!: Not the best thread for this but since you asked, I got the R53 JCW CompEd because first and foremost it is a joy to drive hard… as a bonus it has been quite reliable to date and drives tight and rattle-free. Two issues are top-of-mind over two years: • check engine light, cat replaced by dealer to make it go away and it did. • infamous built-like-crap thermostat housing started leaking, replaced by dealer.</p>
<p>My Mini was a Feb built 07 and it seems that the early to mid 07 builds were plagued with issues for most part. Mine is in the shop as I type this getting it’s engine replaced at only 45,000 miles. It’s the 44th time in the shop in less than 3 years. Had all the 07 issues such as warped hood scoop, sunroof issues(replaced 4 times), blown turbo, clutch replacement, 2 timing chain tensioners, cat replacement, new fuel pump, 3 chrome key ring replacements, popping from axle when taking off from a stop, new thermostat, radio lcd went out, drivers knee bolster fell down, driver seat pad ripping, cold start Death Rattle (fixed multiple times), and a host of other small issues such as lights blown out and rattles. She also left me stranded at the Dragon last year. Yep that was My blue Mini being towed away from Fontana, all though I will say flying back to New Orleans from Atlanta was a lot quicker than motoring here from Fontana lol. All in all, I am still in love with the Mini brand and plan on purchasing my current mini with the extended warranty since they will be replacing my engine and getting a new one in a year or 2. I figured we have been through to much to part ways! lol</p>
<p>Sep 2007 build MCS JCW Stage 1 sold after 18 tortorous months during which the car spent nearly 8 weeks at the dealership for repairs. The thought of owning that car outside the warranty period just frightened me. Issues log:
1. Cold start rattle (twice)
2. Timing problem caused by 1.
3. Sun roof rattles (ongoing)
4. Sunroof failed to open when hot. Refitted.
5. Sunroof not opening at all. Replaced.
6. A dozen times interior trim rattles to be resolved.
7. Partly torn fan belt. Replaced.
8. Faulty water pump. Replaced.
9. Faulty high pressure feul pump. Replaced.
10. Car produced a lousy 163 hp on a dyno, being down nearly 30 hp. Caused by feul pump and timing problem. Not recognised by dealer until shown dyno graphs. Numbers tell the truth…
11. Subframe rattle. Resolved.
12. Mystery rattle from rear passenger side. Unresolved.
13. Engine light coming on Number of times but not storing any data. Disappeared afterreplacing fuel pump.
14. Coolant leak. Resolved.</p>
<p>I am currently driving a 2009 factory JCW that put the smile back on my face, but after having had the bad experiences with the other car, I will not drive (ie own) any MINI outside the warranty period. It seems just daft to me.</p>
<p>Even if covered by BMW’s bullet proof warranty, having to have the car repaired so frequently disrupts my family’s life too much. I laugh when I see MINI advertising their build quality as a strong.</p>
<p>Wow, what a list. Just bought a 09 jcw conv. and was thinking of purchasing a jcw clubman but maybe i’ll get a built in swimming pool instead? My worry is that I hardly drive my car, so I’m worried that the warranty will expire before any troubles start to surface.</p>
<p>I bought an ’08 convertible, and it has been mostly trouble-free – (Knock on Wood). But my first MCS was an ’03 model, and it had so many problems I took it back to the dealer as a lemon.
It seems that it is best to buy a MINI after it has been in production for a number of years till BMW/MINI have sorted out all of the problems and quality control issues.
That said, I will not buy a new MINI till it is in the last year of production. Why pay so much for a small, fun car when it is a lemon.</p>
<p>Great thread. Any chance of a thread like this for the 2006 R53? Coming up on the end of the 4-year warranty for me and I’m debating getting the extended one. I’ve got pretty low mileage on the car (less than 40K) since it’s only been driven for 3 of the 4 years, so I’m interested in finding out what the typical problems are in the next 30K miles.</p>
<p>I would not get so nervous or upset by the troubles some have had. My car was a late Jan, early Feb 07 build and suffers from none of the conditions that some of these commenters have described. Every car model will have some examples with problems. A post like this just brings out everybody’s worst stories.</p>
<p>The intention was to help people identify things that were not obvious. If your sunroof is going to be stuck you probably will not need help identifying that. Something like fog lights cracking or having condensation is a better example. I’d never looked at this on my car, and I’m happy to report my fogs are dry and have no cracks.</p>
<p>This looks like its done, so I’m logging out and going back to my old ID. Thanks Gabe, thanks all.</p>
<p>My mini was built April ’08. So far its gone 28k and there have only been a few minor things. As was mentioned before, the sunroof sometimes refuses to open when it’s hot (driving for 2 minutes cools it enough to open). Now the sunroof switch seems to have broken one of its mount points, so it is a bit off kilter, but still works. Also mentioned in the original article, the cover over the tow hook constantly falls out. (part of this can also be blamed on living on a gravel road). The radio forgets which station it is currently listening to, so switching takes twice as many presses/clicks. If I try to put both windows up simultaneously, or near simultaneously, one will go up halfway and then come down again. Because I rarely use it, the passenger’s door handle takes an incredible force to pull.</p>
<p>Well, this is the second MCS R56 we own. The first one was a 2007 MCS delivered around July ’07. After 26 months, it was returned for a 2010 MCS R56 under MINI’s Owner Assistance program (or something like that). That ’07 MCS suffered from:
1. Cold start issue, not resolved after 2 or 3 attempts
2. Replaced clutch: it was whining upon downshifting (specially from 3rd to 2nd)
3. Could not shift gears smoothly (specially from 1st to 2nd, which felt always crunchy).
This ’10 MCS feels much better, but it definitely does not feel premium. The gearbox still feels crunchy from 1st to 2nd. Not sure if it’s the clutch or the Getrag gearbox that, in the end, is not that great.
We have decided to get rid of it either this summer or in the fall, before its first aniversary.</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
<p>All of this during the first 2000 miles:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>A/C made very loud whining/grinding noise from compressor — dealer replaced compressor. Problem still exists.</p>
<p>Car sometimes needs to be started twice, no matter what the outside temperature is. Can’t replicate at dealer.</p>
<p>Loud rattle from engine compartment: fixed by dealer (faultily installed turbo shield by MINI).</p>
<p>Loud rattle from driver’s side door: fixed by dealer</p>
<p>Whooshing noise when turning. Very sporadic and can’t replicate at dealer.</p>
<p>Poorly mounted sunroof (uneven): fixed by dealer.</p>
<p>Occasionally the turn signals go crazy slow, randomly. Dealer can’t figure it out.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I’m not confident in the reliability of my MINI — hopefully it will be less trouble free from now on than it has been in the first 2000 miles.</p>
<p>I’ve got an 07 MCS built in Dec 06 and bought June 07. Here’s the history on Yellow number 13 (last 2 digits are 13, car is yellow like a lemon….get it?)</p>
<p>8.8 KM Dec 07 The engine had a death rattle sound sometimes when starting in the cold. After a couple trips to the dealer they replaced the engine.</p>
<p>18 KM Apr 08 Clutch noise(helicoptering or chattering when Clutch released in Neutral)new Clutch, Flywheel, etc . I picked up the car after repair and, pulled up the first red light less then 500 ft from the lot. When I let off the clutch in Neutral at the light the helicoptering noise was there again, very faintly! I went directly back to the dealership and reported it and they said if it continued they would look into it. it. Since then they rescheduled my car for a second clutch. I wasn’t able to make that appointment due to a bad snowstorm, then they changed their tune and said it was a normal thing. What’s normal about an intermittent mechanical rattle?</p>
<p>21K June 08, Drivers door rattles , more complaints about clutch noise.</p>
<p>23K Aug 08 Replace O2 sensor.</p>
<p>29K in September 08 More rattles in Drivers door, Clutch noise intermittent hesitation and clickity click sound when hesitating sometimes(fuel pump?), stuck door chime.</p>
<p>35K Feb 09 Engine Death Rattle in cold weather and new front brakes , Replace Timing chain.</p>
<p>36k Mar 09 Clutch noise ongoing. said noise was normal??!!</p>
<p>40K May 09 Replace exhaust tips.</p>
<p>50 K Dec 09 New rubber all around. Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. $1200.00 from local tire dealer plus a car compressor and a can of tire fill goop. Run Flats were just too much money.</p>
<p>51K Feb 10 Windows opening a bit on their own. Voodoo?? Reprogrammed and fixed.</p>
<p>52 K Replaced back brakes. I did these myself and saved about $200.00. They were easy, but I needed a special tool (20.00) for rewinding the brake caliper.</p>
<p>I’ve changed the oil as required, once by the dealer $350.00 including the cabin filter. Once at Mr Lube $280.00 with same parts and cabin filter using Mobil 1. Needs another at 60K.</p>
<p>I have been back several more times over little stuff, rattles, weird problems, etc. but unfortunately don’t have records on those things. Others have seen better and worse problems, but I think my stuff seems fairly average with the exception of the engine replacement. My lease is up in 2 months and like others, I’m trying to decide if I keep it or chuck it back.</p>