A little bit of us remembering that we started this show almost 6 years ago. August 1st, Woofcast 388, will mark our 6th anniversary. Celebration to follow later in the year, a little thing we are calling White Roof Radio Live.
After that, what would you say to some news from MotoringFile like we like to do, followed by another rendition of Ask Chad. Good times abound!
**Woofcast 386** [audio:http://www.podtrac.com/pts/redirect.mp3/www.whiteroofradio.com/podcasts/woof386.mp3]
Download |28.8MB | 59:53 |WRR @ iTunes
<p>Unfortunately I think whiteroof radio is loosing touch with Mini owners. I have been listening to them since 2008, billet more recently the show is about them. Remember guys Mini sells itself, not you guys. Get back downto earth!</p>
<p>Unfortunately I think whiteroof radio is loosing touch with Mini owners. I have been listening to them since 2008, billet more recently the show is about them. Remember guys Mini sells itself, not you guys. Get back downto earth!</p>
<p>Pretty good show guys! Couple of comments though: in the Ask Chad question about rear camber, if a fixed camber rear is out of spec, somethign is shot. Probably the rear control arm bushings. There is a really good chance that swapping one or more of them out will return the car to spec. But since MINI charges so much for spares, it still may make sense to upgrade to adjustables to get a better part. But one point not covered is that setting the camber front and rear for how you really do drive the car will result in improved handling (get some more front camber and you reduce understear), higher maximum adhesion limits (better contact patch management) and that these result in INCREASED tire life. I run about -2 front and -1 rear, drive my car pretty hard, and almost doubled the mileage I get per set of tires. Proper camber settings up front result in even tread wear. Stock settings result in a lot of wear on the outside edge up front.) Tire savings alone have more than paid for the parts and alignment needed to get the parts on the car and set up properly.</p>
<p>The only way to solve the dripping sprayer problem is the following: Put in a valve that doens’t open until line pressure increases above a certain amount. This set-point must be higher than what it takes to get force fluids backwards through the pump. The valves should be as near to the sprayer as possible. Like you all mentioned, the cap on the resevoir doesn’t really seal, so the leakage isn’t from expansion of the gas in the resevoir. It’s most likely from thermal expansion of the fluids (or any bubbles) in the lines. Anyway, when the little valve is out, you may want to try putting two in, one near each jet, and see if the problem goes away.</p>
<p>Matt</p>
<p>Pretty good show guys! Couple of comments though: in the Ask Chad question about rear camber, if a fixed camber rear is out of spec, somethign is shot. Probably the rear control arm bushings. There is a really good chance that swapping one or more of them out will return the car to spec. But since MINI charges so much for spares, it still may make sense to upgrade to adjustables to get a better part. But one point not covered is that setting the camber front and rear for how you really do drive the car will result in improved handling (get some more front camber and you reduce understear), higher maximum adhesion limits (better contact patch management) and that these result in INCREASED tire life. I run about -2 front and -1 rear, drive my car pretty hard, and almost doubled the mileage I get per set of tires. Proper camber settings up front result in even tread wear. Stock settings result in a lot of wear on the outside edge up front.) Tire savings alone have more than paid for the parts and alignment needed to get the parts on the car and set up properly.</p>
<p>The only way to solve the dripping sprayer problem is the following: Put in a valve that doens’t open until line pressure increases above a certain amount. This set-point must be higher than what it takes to get force fluids backwards through the pump. The valves should be as near to the sprayer as possible. Like you all mentioned, the cap on the resevoir doesn’t really seal, so the leakage isn’t from expansion of the gas in the resevoir. It’s most likely from thermal expansion of the fluids (or any bubbles) in the lines. Anyway, when the little valve is out, you may want to try putting two in, one near each jet, and see if the problem goes away.</p>
<p>Matt</p>
<p>Wow- I remember the first one. It was about year after I had picked up my 05 “refreshed” R53 in July of 04. It was one of the first refreshed R53s sold on the east coast. I bought it from Ottos Mini in West Chester PA and my MA was Julie Hoffman who was the founder of the Philly Mini Club. I was still “in the new” with my Mini and remember being so excited with Motoring File and the whole Mini community. I think Gabe still had his first blue R53 and was looking for a job if my memory serves me right. Alot has changed in the last 6 years. Some of the excitment has faided and the Mini brand (and Motoring File) has gone in different directions. But, I still have my now “paid off” 05 refreshed R53. I took delivery on it on my 43rd birthday, I will be 50 next week. I am still a kid at heart and my Mini helps keep me there. This is the longest I have ever kept a vehilcle and I’ll probibly keep it forever if it keeps making me smile and its not to expensive to maintain. I am a Motorer for 7 years now, and still going strong. Congrats Gabe and WRR for a great program of 6 years. Cheers!       </p>
<p>Our pleasure!</p>
<p>thanks for the info on the cel, guys. i tried telling them about gen 1 o2 sensors being covered and they told me i had a gen 2. luckily it was covered under the extended warranty, so it was only $100 deductible. thanks again!</p>
<p>not that i didn’t know i had a gen 2, but more that in dealing with my car they didn’t care what happened to the gen 1s.</p>