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Sean Bartnik has put together a fantastic write-up at his site on how to replace your toggle panel for those who are retrofitting the rear/front foglights. Having used it yesterday I can tell you it's on the money every step of the way. You can check it out here .
<p>But you can remove the down tubes without removing all the center stuff.
One screw (on the right, open the glove box to find it) holds the trim around the speedometer … after removing this the trim can be eased off its clips on the bottom, and the down tubes (after removing their torx screws) can be eased out from behind the trim.
About one minute …
(thanks to GadgetGav for showing me that trick)</p>
<p>I'll be trying this method when I install my Denison ICE-Link :)</p>
<p>Yeah, the article mentions you can do it that way too. That's the way I've always done it before. I did the center console method this time around just to try something different.</p>
<p>Either way works :-)</p>
<p>I would definitely not remove all the center stuff to remove the downtubes. It adds considerable time to the project. By removing the single screw within the top of the glove compartment, I did the whole swap in under 5 minutes. I think it was about 3 or 4 minutes. And yes all the other switches including the front fog lights still work.</p>
<p>Quick and easy. Took about 30 minutes only because I had a hard time getting the foam blocks back in. Had the switch activated the next day at the dealership (~$45) and everything works. The rears are independent of the front fogs, and can still be used even with the high beams.</p>
<p>The one nice thing about the center console method is that you are able to clean underneath all the plastic.</p>